augustbailbonds

For the past two weekends, (usually only drive on Saturdays) after driving my car for 30 miles and having sat for approx 30 min, there is no power to anything. Everything completely dead. It restores within 15-20 minutes after clicking the ignition switch and jiggling the pos or neg cable at the battery but not sure. I am going to clean the terminals but after that I'm a bit clueless.

It starts first thing whenever it is cold and probably two or three times after that when warm. It's only happened twice on two separate occasions but I am waiting for it not to restore itself over the maximum distance for free AAA towing.

August Spillers
81 "S"
w/Hurricane Isabel love tap and starting gremlin

Rich9928p

I have to ask the obvious, have you tested your battery and cleaned the terminals. Dirty and corroded connections can act very strange, especially after things have heated up .... and they will heat up from resistance if they're corroded.

Next stop is the fuse panel. Remove all the fuses and inspect the fueses and sockets. If there is any "green stuff" there you'll be having problems. Have you EVER replaced any of the relays? Relays wear and do need to be relpaced as a wear item, better to replace BEFORE they fail.

Next, check the ground points around the car, starting with the lartest one, the strap that connects the engine to the chassis! Other important connections are above and behind the fuse panel, you'll need to unbolt it and move it just enough to gain access [disconnect the battery for this]. Basically anywhere brown wires are bolted to the chassis, remove the bolt and clean.

Dennis Wilson

In addition to Riches checks, also check the positive battery cable for internal corrosion and the connection(s) at the starter. The connections at the jump starter post on the right fenderwell could be another problem area.

Dennis

SteveG

I don't remember it being temperature related, but frequently the ignition switch at the column goes. The weight of the keys and/or fob is sited as a wear problem on the connections w/i the column.

FlyingDog

I have a problem similar to this with my car. Just touching jumper cables to another running car's battery will start it right up. I've noticed it happens less often if I turn the key to 'on' wait a second or two, then turn to 'start'. I'm guessing it's a relay or starter solenoid problem. They're both on my list for replacement.

Rich9928p

The ignition switch is not part of the lock tumbler. It is actually about 1.4 inches behind the lock tumbler. It is connected by a small rod. So you do not need to worry at all about the lock portion of the switch if you replace the electrical portion. The electrical portion is held on by two small screws at the lower portion of the pod.

Quite often the contacts of the starter switch play connectivity tricks and cause trouble. It isn't too expensive of a part.

Dennis Wilson

SteveG,

Didn't imply that it was temp related. When the cable went bad on my 78 5 speed it was more movement/vibration related.

Dennis

augustbailbonds

Thanks everybody. Loose and dirty ground strap.
August Spillers

Mike LaBranche

I am _always_ amazed how much better things get when you clean up all the grounds, battery cables, jump start post, etc. Huge difference every time I do it to a 928. If everyone did Wally's annual electrical maintenance routine, annually, there'd be half the problems we see now on the board.