Richard S

Here's what you should do...

Remove everything in front of engine (belts, covers, etc) remove the spark plugs, put in neutral, turn slowly to TDC via crank bolt. Loosen tensioner until belt is loose enough to slide off. Before you slide it off, use wrench on passenger side cam to hold in place (gentle clockwise pressure). Passenger cam is resting on top of a lobe at TDC. If you remove belt, the cam may balance on lobe, but will eventually cause camshaft to rotate counterclockwise off the lobe, and it will happen QUICKLY. By holding cam in place with a wrench, you can ease the camshaft counterclockwise off the lobe after the belt is removed. I've done this several times with my 84 Euro S motor. But the first time, the camshaft snapped back counterclockwise, scared me to death! No damage though.

Good luck.

jetrainor

My 87 euro has the perforated leather panels in the doors and back wheel wells however i have always assumed this was one of the interior differences between NA cars and euros...every euro i've seen has this style of door panel...i don't know that it means inferior sound system...mine sound quite acceptable and i prefer the look of the hidden speaker vs the other which has a sort of aftermarket look to me.

H2

Heinrich,

I was once reminded by an old post by "Rob" who mentioned a Volvo technique for changing timing belts without fear of cam gears getting out of phase, skipping teeth, or any of the nightmares that those of us who haven't actually pulled and replaced a belt are concerned about. Why wouldn’t the following technique work just as well on your 928 with the bad belt?

You essentially slit your T-Belt in half along its length, while turning the engine...remove the front half of the old belt, leaving the back original half in place...loosen tension up just a bit…slide on the new belt as far as it will go...then remove (cut) the back half of the old belt off and slip the new belt all the way on the gears and adjust the tensioner. That's it.

You could take the spark plugs out for easier engine turning but I don’t find that a problem since I use an old cheap rachet torque wrench with a long handle, and a deep socket on the crankshaft bolt. Works slick and is a heck of a lot easier than removing the plugs or exercising your arms.

Also, on my 85S 32V, when I fully exposed the belt, I didn't take off all of the stuff that most people recommend (maybe it's different for the S4s). I was able to easily do this w/o removing the coolant or any coolant hoses, wires from distributor caps (I tied them back out of the way), didn't remove the wires connected to the fan housing, left the radiator in place (but did remove the plastic cowling), didn't have to move the air pump, etc. It was slightly tighter but, in my mind it was less work overall.

Harvey
__________________

heinrich

Harvey correct, much can be left in place when replacing the belt.pump/rollers. I could do that here also and had truly considered it ... for now I am still working my way into the engine as well as getting my new S4 engine prepped for installation (almost done woohoo) ....
Take care .... I'll contact you as soon as I have talked with the black car's owner
Heinrich

Bill Ball

OK, I know this is obvious, but just for the record... The slit technique only applies when doing just the belt, which is very rarely, if ever, the right way to do this job. No chance to service the tensioner or inspect the rollers, etc.

heinrich

With you Bill ... the thought here I guess is just to get her to 45deg.

heinrich

Here's what an 8,000 dollar Autohaus job will often get you. Great reason why I trust no-one to work on my cars.

heinrich

Just so we're clear:

1) GTS tensioner installed and charged-for. Roller arm not replaced. They do not fit, causing tensioner piston to be at severe angle.
2) No flywheel lock tool used. Large wrench used to grip and deform crank pulley.

Result:
Destruction of timing belt
Passenger cam slipped at least one inch back.
Bent valves? Not sure. What a mess. We'll see.

PorKen

I think I called it in post #42 (unfortunately).

My original crankshaft accessory pulley had similar marks on both sides. It looked like someone had once used a big 'ol pipe wrench on it.

heinrich

Ken ... as usual, you manage to outdo your previous excellence Now, do the two tdc marks on the back of the sprockets need to align with the two pointers on the backing plates? If so, looks like I may be screwed. I will advance the passenger cam there from where it is now, but don't necessarily think we'll have any compression. Again ... on this '85 Euro, are we sure that is the case?
Heinrich

Bill Ball

Jesus H. Christ! Do these people (Autohaus) actually purport to know what they are doing? Are they located in your state? The BAR should be informed and some action taken. That's criminal negligence. The mechanic should be made to eat the belt remnants.

heinrich

Bill, the bill was $7,764 on 9/15/2001. This included an amount of $641.68 for a hydraulic tensioner.

The people who did this work was:
Foreign Auto Clinic
424 Saint Helens Ave
Tacoma, WA 98402
Phone: (253)272-0062

And I agree.

Red UFO

I don't know yet, but I can check this weekend for ya!

Right now I'm *** deep into TB job on the 83, to tear into the 85.

FlyingDog

The belt on my '84 was 1 tooth off TDC on one cam and 2 teeth off TDC on the other cam. I assume them should line up Heinrich.

heinrich

Thanks Gents The saga continues ....