1980 motor mounts
#1
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1980 motor mounts
I have read the various postings regarding the motor mounts on the 928 and after checking mine find that the engine is about 1 inch lower than the crossmember, hence a belief the mounts are shot. I have ordered the anchor units discussed in the postings however question whether those same mounts are suitable for all the 928 models from 1980 through the 1990's.
Can anyone shed some light on this as the Porsche parts listings show different parts for the different models (78 to about 84 and then 84 on).
Many thanks
Gary
Can anyone shed some light on this as the Porsche parts listings show different parts for the different models (78 to about 84 and then 84 on).
Many thanks
Gary
#2
2nd Gear
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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I beleive the 78 thru 82 cars use a solid mount that is significantly different than the Anchor mounts that are being used on the later cars. Just did my 79, fun job. Good luck.
#3
Rennlist Member
The early mount is solid, of a completely different design, and uses a mini shock absorber for vibration damping.
To go to the hydraulic style mounts the mount brackets and cross member must be upgraded to the MY '83+ (Xmember 928 375 011 06, and bracket/stop .... 069 01 and ... 371 00 respectively)
If you need to change mounts and already have the hyd. units, the above parts shouldn't be too hard to find (used ); however, the early mounts are pretty tough.
Does the engine still 'rock' if the throttle is blipped? Unbolt the two mini shocks from the rear lower A-arm bracket and cycle them. If very firm hand pressure works on both push/pull, they are OK. If otherwise, due to their expense, you may want to carry on with the upgrade. While they are loose, start and blip the engine (helper needed), and watch the solid mounts for signs of seperation. Any collapse can be seen in the seperation of the safety hooks - they should not allow your finger tip to pass.
To go to the hydraulic style mounts the mount brackets and cross member must be upgraded to the MY '83+ (Xmember 928 375 011 06, and bracket/stop .... 069 01 and ... 371 00 respectively)
If you need to change mounts and already have the hyd. units, the above parts shouldn't be too hard to find (used ); however, the early mounts are pretty tough.
Does the engine still 'rock' if the throttle is blipped? Unbolt the two mini shocks from the rear lower A-arm bracket and cycle them. If very firm hand pressure works on both push/pull, they are OK. If otherwise, due to their expense, you may want to carry on with the upgrade. While they are loose, start and blip the engine (helper needed), and watch the solid mounts for signs of seperation. Any collapse can be seen in the seperation of the safety hooks - they should not allow your finger tip to pass.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Gary,
Be prepared to return those mounts. You need the earlier mounts. These are not the liquid-filled mounts all of the fuss is about. They do settle and will fail by having the metal separate from the rubber.
Also, get a parts reference of some type. I recently got a civilian version of the Porsche parts catalog (the "PET") from Suncoast motor sports:
http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/me...tegory_Code=WS
Be prepared to return those mounts. You need the earlier mounts. These are not the liquid-filled mounts all of the fuss is about. They do settle and will fail by having the metal separate from the rubber.
Also, get a parts reference of some type. I recently got a civilian version of the Porsche parts catalog (the "PET") from Suncoast motor sports:
http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/me...tegory_Code=WS
#6
NOt that I am personally aware of Sean. Depending on finding a crossmember and the correct mount hats, it COULD be cheaper to simply get the Ford mounts and fit them. I do this whenever I have had an early car, and I suggest it to everyone.
#7
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Sean79 5spd
I'm confused. Will the Anchor 2698 mounts not fit on a 79? If not, are there any non Porsche mounts that can be used?
As Brenden describes, the later mounts can be retrofitted. I chose to go with the early mounts again. The construction is less likely to fail and certainly not to re-fail after a short period as has been reported for the liquid-filled mounts. Not cheap, though.
The left mount on my car had separated. There are 175,000 miles or thereabouts (bad odo anyone?) on the car. I didn't know it was bad until the engine was out.
You could get a smootheness improvement on your pre-83 car by replacing the engine dampers (shocks) which I found for $25/ea after digging around.
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#8
Any write ups on the conversion from the old style to the new? My engine is out being rebuilt and the mini shock absorbers have no resistance in them at all. The prices I have seen for replacements are quite high. Between bad rings in three cylinders and the engine shocks being shot, the engine resembled a paint shaker. Since the engine is out I'm taking advantage of the easier accessibility.
Thanks
- Eric
Thanks
- Eric
#9
Later style crossmember: 50 bucks or so
Later style mount hats: 10 bucks each or so.
Ford 2698 Mounts: 35 bucks each - 70
Support engine from Above (Somehow) and replace all these.
Later style mount hats: 10 bucks each or so.
Ford 2698 Mounts: 35 bucks each - 70
Support engine from Above (Somehow) and replace all these.
#10
Burning Brakes
Uh, what are you guys talking about? Have any of you actually done an early car with the anchor mounts? I have, they are bolt in. There are no special mods needed. I put the anchor mounts on an 83' and a 79'. They both look almost identical. The 79 had some very small shocks in the sides that are almost useless.
#12
Originally Posted by Weissach
Uh, what are you guys talking about? Have any of you actually done an early car with the anchor mounts? I have, they are bolt in. There are no special mods needed. I put the anchor mounts on an 83' and a 79'. They both look almost identical. The 79 had some very small shocks in the sides that are almost useless.
6 simple purchases and a retrofit, or Measuring, drilling, fitting, swearing and hurting. Everyone's choice.
#13
Burning Brakes
Yes, they were the 2698 mounts. As for the time it takes, it's not that bad. I had no lift, I did it on the floor with the car jacked up high. The mounts are hard to fit on both the 83 and 79, so it's not going to be a piece of cake either way. It took a long weekend.
The main reason to go with the anchors is cost. The later liquid-filled mounts on the 928 are over priced for what you are getting. I haven't checked the price on the early factory mounts. If they are far cheaper than the later ones, just go with the factory units.
The main reason to go with the anchors is cost. The later liquid-filled mounts on the 928 are over priced for what you are getting. I haven't checked the price on the early factory mounts. If they are far cheaper than the later ones, just go with the factory units.
#15
Nordschleife Master
I gotta ask why you need to replace the mounts. The early mounts don't squish out like later versions. If the engine isn't twisting too much, and the engine isn't resting on the crossmember, then I'd leave them alone.
The shocks (928 375 179 02) are available at Pelican for $27 a piece.
The shocks (928 375 179 02) are available at Pelican for $27 a piece.