I finally was able to get the new clutch pack in the car last night.....WHAT A BUGGER! I think another set of hand would have been really helpful...but getting another body under the car that seems to be attached to another pair of hand probably would have been a problem.

Anyway, it's in there.( A month later from when I dropped it out...not that time matters during the winter here! I'm in maintenance mode)

The question.
I was able to align the intermediate plate on the centering pins and with a bit of fussing insert the main shaft into the new pilot bearing. After installing all 6 intermediate plate / flywheel bolts I was rotating the engine to perform the final torque sequence and the wire shims were falling out one by one. Are the wire shims supposed to just fall out?? I was expecting to have to pull them out with needle nose once the bolts were in.

I was hesitant to complete the re-assemble until I have some feedback from the experts here.

Thoughts???

 

Does sound strange to me. Can't think of why that would happen. I always needed to pull them out. Had to tap them in. Might be that the shims were just thin enough, but I still had to do that with a new kit. Might be the model.

Could you be knocking them out while turing the clutch? I recall needing to drop the clutch and tap down the shiks as they were hitting the bell housing and I couldn't turn the assembly.

 

The factory wire hoops on the new clutch did hit the housing slightly as I turned the flywheel, but when the hoops were vertical they simply fell out. I can place them under the tabs with no problem now that the clutch is tightened to the flywheel.

Switched disks?? Disk orientation backward??

 

Sounds OK IIRC. The 'U' shims simply take a pre-load as the pressure plate is unbolted - so on the reverse aspect, were you to remove the P Plate, the shims should slide in before the bolts are loosened. Conversely, when torqued down, out they come ....

 

I think the difference is that the old discs were worn and the new full thickness.

 

Am I glad to hear that! I would rather do a full timing belt / Water pump than go back into the clutch! Actually I'm sure the second time around would be better...I just hope I never get to find out!

During disassembly I really never took a look at the position of the tabs the shims go under. I simply used a clamp to disengage the clutch and slide the wire hoops under, so during install when they fell out I wasn't sure what the deal was. BTW almost all the bolts were in place and tightened to about 80% of their final value when the wire hoops fell out.

Earl.... I was thinking along your lines as well but having never performed a clutch swap better to check than just fire it up!

At any rate I think when the time comes I'll start the car in neutral...just in case.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

Rich,

Sorry about your struggles, but perhaps your experience will help when I get around to doing mine. At 135,000 kms, I suspect I don't have much time left on this clutch. Its good to know someone else doing their own wrenching in my neigborhood.

 

Hey

Even the same model year! If you going to tackle this one give me a shout. My sister lives in Edmonton so I'm there from time to time!

 

Rich,

Long day sorry for the delay in response; it's been one of those days and this is my first moment on the board. Can you believe that we could be still driving 928s in this lattitude on November 30!!!??? I'm sorry I parked mine where its not accessible a month ago!

Lets try to bring some of the Alberta 928 contigent together in 2005. There has to be a few out there.

Thanks for the offer of guidance on the clutch. I'll take you up on it.

 

After last night I can officially add the shifter cup to my list of completed. A bit of a PITA but given the shape my old original cup was in I was on borrowed time! If the exhaust is down this can be replaced in a couple of hours (including re-installing the exhaust). It's worthwhile picking up a new cup for the front shift linkage to have on hand for next time the exhaust comes down.

I'm hopeful I can fire the beast up tonight and take advantage of our fair weather ......for a few days anyway.

 

Houston...we have a problem.

With the exhaust up and battery fully charged she fires right up (in NEUTRAL). After a moment to smile at the ongoing rumble from the engine I push the clutch pedal down and engage into first....engage into first....engage into first.... damn

so I can't get the car into ANY gear.

shut the car off and I can select gears

start car up....no gear selection

stop car and place in reverse and just touch the ignition.......yup even with the clutch on the floor....I'm in gear...

I crawl under the car and my lovely assistant pushes the clutch so I can observe the movement. The arm travels smoothly from the center of the inspection hole to about 1" behind it.

This seems right

So now it looks like the only alternative is to go back in and see what I missed the first time.

Thoughts on what would cause this??? I'll re-direct the reader to my opening post for some history....and possibly a clue...

 

Yes, as you torque the twin-disk clutch, the wire shims you placed under the three legs of the clutch do just fall out. Make sure you get all 3. They are neccesary because, you would discover that without them, the 6 mounting bolts are a tad to short to catch a thread.

 

Thanks Carl

Does any one know if it is possible for the intermediate disk to be so far out of adjustment to cause this? I suppose it's the first on my re-do hit list.


Unfortunately tomorrow will probably be my last day to enjoy the shark before winter ( +8 oC tomorrow...- 16 oC forecast for Sunday).

On the plus side I parked next to a black on black OB 928 at work today made me smile...and curse the fact I was driving the Tahoe.

HELP!

 

It is not unusual for the intermediate plate to be too far forward. You need to drop the lower bellhousing and pull back the clutch arm (ratchet tie down etc.) to release the pressure and adjust the intermediate plate all the way to the rear. You will need to rotate the engine to access the three adjustment windows.