Heater valve upgrade
11-08-2004, 12:06 AM
#1
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Heater valve upgrade
I was hearing a little gurgling from the heater and the defrost wasn't working too well, so I finally broke down and bought one of the metal heater valves that had been recommended on this site (Napa Product Number: BK 6601410 about $26). Before I pulled the old one off, I vacuum tested it and it seemed fine, but I yanked it anyway and I am glad I did.
The vacuum portion worked, but the internal valve had a gasket come halfway free and it was not operating correctly. The new valve works great and it is nice to know that there is a more bulletproof part in the cooling system. It's one of the easier upgrades and it takes about 45 minutes including topping up the coolant.
I had replaced the little connector hose a year ago, but if you haven't it's a good WYAIT.
The vacuum portion worked, but the internal valve had a gasket come halfway free and it was not operating correctly. The new valve works great and it is nice to know that there is a more bulletproof part in the cooling system. It's one of the easier upgrades and it takes about 45 minutes including topping up the coolant.
I had replaced the little connector hose a year ago, but if you haven't it's a good WYAIT.
11-08-2004, 01:23 AM
#2
Marc,
Yeah it's a good fix and easy to do -vac. hose and all.
I found that there was ANOTHER area to clean-up which probably did add enough time to hit
the 40 minute mark.
Truth be known... you can probably swap any GM, Fomoco, MoPar vac. valve that will fit/hang
in the allowable space. Cost a couple of bucks at the junk yard for a late model item .
For that mater the stock item is fairly cheap from the Big Three and last's a long time...just not forever. It's a lot worse in the summer... even with HVAC completely off/closed the "Mystery Sauna"
effect will broil you on a summer time run to a sHARk gatering involving 600 - 900 miles. Fortunately, I cooked only one way ... Jay Wellwood showed me how to tie the actuating arm in the closed position...thank God.
Yeah it's a good fix and easy to do -vac. hose and all.
I found that there was ANOTHER area to clean-up which probably did add enough time to hit
the 40 minute mark.
Truth be known... you can probably swap any GM, Fomoco, MoPar vac. valve that will fit/hang
in the allowable space. Cost a couple of bucks at the junk yard for a late model item .
For that mater the stock item is fairly cheap from the Big Three and last's a long time...just not forever. It's a lot worse in the summer... even with HVAC completely off/closed the "Mystery Sauna"
effect will broil you on a summer time run to a sHARk gatering involving 600 - 900 miles. Fortunately, I cooked only one way ... Jay Wellwood showed me how to tie the actuating arm in the closed position...thank God.
11-08-2004, 10:13 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Marc,
A good fix.
What is the ~ diameter of the inlet hose fitting on the valve? Recently, we were caught in a Fri PM 'jury rig' fix on a friends 86.5, were the short connector hose was ruptured. We put in a 3" piece of 3/4"id heater hose, and it clamped up fine; however, I recall the 16v cars to call for a molded hose with different diameters on each end - just wondering if 3/4" hose will work with the new metal valve ( or is the 'small' end on the manifold side?).
A good fix.
What is the ~ diameter of the inlet hose fitting on the valve? Recently, we were caught in a Fri PM 'jury rig' fix on a friends 86.5, were the short connector hose was ruptured. We put in a 3" piece of 3/4"id heater hose, and it clamped up fine; however, I recall the 16v cars to call for a molded hose with different diameters on each end - just wondering if 3/4" hose will work with the new metal valve ( or is the 'small' end on the manifold side?).
....
