Engine is on it's way out
11-03-2004, 12:31 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Engine is on it's way out
At the recommendation of my wife, I started into the engine removal portion of my project. This concerns the '81 (Inga).
A couple questions for the forum so far:
Where's my bottom frame support brace that I'm supposed to remove according to the WSM (step 4 or 5)? I've got the exhaust flanges, ground strap, and all appropriate fluids removed, waiting on this brace.
Any advice from the forum concerning the procedure? I'm following the WSM step by step for now.
A couple questions for the forum so far:
Where's my bottom frame support brace that I'm supposed to remove according to the WSM (step 4 or 5)? I've got the exhaust flanges, ground strap, and all appropriate fluids removed, waiting on this brace.
Any advice from the forum concerning the procedure? I'm following the WSM step by step for now.
11-03-2004, 12:55 AM
#2
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Tim,
I believe you are refering to the lower brace that is located between the power steering rack and the oil pan. If I remember right it is attached at the lower control arms and another brace that runs up about 6" up the inside of the side fire walls between the exaust manifolds and the wall. (at least on my S4s) I am sure I am missing some details others can fill in.
On a side note, I am droping my trannie on Sunday. : )
Good luck with the engine pull!
Scott
I believe you are refering to the lower brace that is located between the power steering rack and the oil pan. If I remember right it is attached at the lower control arms and another brace that runs up about 6" up the inside of the side fire walls between the exaust manifolds and the wall. (at least on my S4s) I am sure I am missing some details others can fill in.
On a side note, I am droping my trannie on Sunday. : )
Good luck with the engine pull!
Scott
11-03-2004, 01:05 AM
#3
Engine cross member below the middle of the engine bay?
Four bolts keep the motormount hats on the engine attached to the mm themselves.
THREE bolts as I recall on each side rail, including the one that you bolt the suspension up with... Maybe two.
8 inch long semi-vertical "strap" that goes up to the point where the back bolt on the upper a arm ties that to the body.
Four bolts keep the motormount hats on the engine attached to the mm themselves.
THREE bolts as I recall on each side rail, including the one that you bolt the suspension up with... Maybe two.
8 inch long semi-vertical "strap" that goes up to the point where the back bolt on the upper a arm ties that to the body.
11-03-2004, 01:15 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by TeufelHei
At the recommendation of my wife, I started into the engine removal portion of my project. This concerns the '81 (Inga).
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11-03-2004, 01:51 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
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Hey Scott, I sent you an e-mail already, but here's the jist.
The motor is scheduled to be out on Saturday afternoon. If you want to help, I'm all about it. How about this, my engine Saturday, your transmission Sunday, then we can flip for who gets the next one?
Yeah, I thought that was it, but the way the picture in the WSM makes it look, it's a lot different than what I've got. Oh well, it comes off tomorrow night then.
How long can you leave the car with the engine basicaly ready to be hoisted out before it has an effect on the frame? Or is the torsional rigidity of the chassis just that high? I ask because I can have this thing ready to hoist by friday (pending arrival of flywheel lock), but if it's an issue I can wait a little.
The motor is scheduled to be out on Saturday afternoon. If you want to help, I'm all about it. How about this, my engine Saturday, your transmission Sunday, then we can flip for who gets the next one?
Yeah, I thought that was it, but the way the picture in the WSM makes it look, it's a lot different than what I've got. Oh well, it comes off tomorrow night then.
How long can you leave the car with the engine basicaly ready to be hoisted out before it has an effect on the frame? Or is the torsional rigidity of the chassis just that high? I ask because I can have this thing ready to hoist by friday (pending arrival of flywheel lock), but if it's an issue I can wait a little.
11-03-2004, 09:50 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
Engine cross member does not have to be removed to remove the engine. I believe the brace the WSM is referring to is not installed on your '81. I believe the brace in question is installed on some cars and blocks access to the exhaust manifold-to-cat flanges. Just an assumption...
I removed my engine from my '79 not long ago and no cross braces had to be removed.
I removed my engine from my '79 not long ago and no cross braces had to be removed.
11-03-2004, 12:57 PM
#7
hupp- your right.
Not to remove the engine out the top, but you can go DOWN if you don't have a hoist, and that cross brace could get in the way. I've done it both ways.
Not to remove the engine out the top, but you can go DOWN if you don't have a hoist, and that cross brace could get in the way. I've done it both ways.
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11-03-2004, 01:26 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
My wife says "Get that outta here" a lot. Apparently I wasn't interpreting it right.
Plenty of archives info. Don't forget that the starter wires are clamped to the cross member.
Plenty of archives info. Don't forget that the starter wires are clamped to the cross member.
11-03-2004, 02:39 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
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Alrighty then, the cross member stays in. I'm pulling it out the top anyhow. I wonder if that was an older or newer car issue.
11-08-2004, 01:23 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
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Well, after several hangups (darn emissions system) the engine is out. Thanks to Scott Turnbull for helping me thorugh the final stages.
Due to an overlong and inacessible driveshaft coupler, we opted to pull the engine and leave the clutch assembly more or less in place. Has anyone run into this problem before?
Also a special thanks to the Dremel tool company for helping me with some troublesome fixtures. By the way, does anyone know a good place to get a power steering pressure line made?
Due to an overlong and inacessible driveshaft coupler, we opted to pull the engine and leave the clutch assembly more or less in place. Has anyone run into this problem before?
Also a special thanks to the Dremel tool company for helping me with some troublesome fixtures. By the way, does anyone know a good place to get a power steering pressure line made?
11-08-2004, 09:25 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
Tim,
I left my clutch in place, as well. The ring gear hung up on the upper bell housing when I pulled my engine. The engine went back in with the upper bell installed (on engine).
I left my clutch in place, as well. The ring gear hung up on the upper bell housing when I pulled my engine. The engine went back in with the upper bell installed (on engine).
11-08-2004, 10:32 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
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It was very strange. There is no way that coupler went in without having either the torque tube or the engine removed, it was totally inaccessible. I'm kinda wondering how whoever did it even got it on the torque tube to begin with.
11-08-2004, 11:01 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Tim,
The coupler should have two pinch bolts. For the long couplers (like yours and mine) the rear pinch bolt is accessed through a port on the under side of the torque tube. The coupler can be removed with the engine in the car but the clutch/splined shaft has to be removed to provide room. Bolth pinch bolts must be completely removed for the coupler to slide. One of my worries was that I would forget to slide the coupler back on the torque tube before dropping the engine in. This would have required removing the clutch pac to get the darn thing in.
The reinstallation of the coupler is also important because it establishes the correct clutch splined shaft to pilot bearing position. In summary, during couple up, install the pinch bolt on the clutch splined shaft first then install the pinch bolt on TT splined shaft.
The coupler should have two pinch bolts. For the long couplers (like yours and mine) the rear pinch bolt is accessed through a port on the under side of the torque tube. The coupler can be removed with the engine in the car but the clutch/splined shaft has to be removed to provide room. Bolth pinch bolts must be completely removed for the coupler to slide. One of my worries was that I would forget to slide the coupler back on the torque tube before dropping the engine in. This would have required removing the clutch pac to get the darn thing in.
The reinstallation of the coupler is also important because it establishes the correct clutch splined shaft to pilot bearing position. In summary, during couple up, install the pinch bolt on the clutch splined shaft first then install the pinch bolt on TT splined shaft.
11-08-2004, 04:11 PM
#14
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"...the rear pinch bolt is accessed through a port on the under side of the torque tube. "
Thought that molding on the TT looked like it lind up with the rear pinch bolt. However, the TT only has a molding for where that access hole should be. There is no hole. Guess we could-a, should-a drilled it out!
Thought that molding on the TT looked like it lind up with the rear pinch bolt. However, the TT only has a molding for where that access hole should be. There is no hole. Guess we could-a, should-a drilled it out!
