Hi Group, may I have your opinions as to essential tools for restoration of my 78 Euro? I have the usual sockets, open ends, and so forth. Also, drill press, lathe, compressor, air tools (sanders, and so forth). I am wondering about the special tools I see listed in my Shop Manual ... what are the "essential" factory tools needed for engine, cooling, electrical and body work.

Thanks in advance!

 

Flywheel lock , timing tension measuring (Kempf) tool , 27 MM socket (steering and flywheel nut/bolt), 'star" allen head for flywheel to crank bolts, set long metric allen sockets for camshaft housing bolts. Test light ,multimeter............. small bearing puller for pilot bearing 5 spd .....many of the special tools are not required.

 

a set of stubby wrenches is always nice, t-handle allens
non tool items include: a BIG cooler or fridge for plenty of beverages, a heavy bag to take out your frustations, dye, LOTS of extra clips for the interior as you WILL break some

 

Ball joint removal tool and spring compressors for the front end (replace those Al Ball Joints!). Spring compressors are for the height adjustment which requires shims on the old cars. You can probably get both from Harbor freight for $30.

A really good voltmeter, fused with >2 amp current handling.

A tool I use a lot are the long needle nose pliers (Again Harbor like $10 for 2) to grab stuff in all the nooks and crannys of the car. It was one of the first tools Dan (the pod guy) recommended to me and they have been used in an amazing array of projects.

A mighty vac to chase down vacuum leaks. (Can also be used to bleed brakes)

Some really good penetrating oil (not WD-40), DeOxit contact cleaner, di-electric grease, anti-sieze, loc-tight...... There are a bunch of mysterious Optimoly-this and Optimoly-that compounds that are recommended in the WSMs. I bet one of the big 3 can help you sort them out. I never found the decoder ring for them.

 

Hey Marc
Very good idea to use the Mityvac for bleeding brakes. I suppose you simply suck with it till you see the fluid emerge from the bleed nipple right? Any other comments on this?

Colin
89GT

 

Not factory tools but:

-Pressure bleeder
-Gear wrenches
-O-ring removal tools. (the things that look like dental scrapers)
-Razor blade gasket scraper
-Small torque wrench - needed for all those 6mm bolts - 10mm bolts.

 

17 mm allen wrench (or socket wrench fitting) for removing drain/fill plugs on differential. MANDATORY WARNING: always remove fill plug FIRST.

 

I think the most essential in order are:

(implying also ratchet set and sockets, screwdrivers and normal metric wrenches, entensions, universal joints)
torque wrench from very low torque to 230ft-lbs (pref with Nm gauge)
timing belt tension tool
full set stubbies
full set ratcheting box wrenches
full set allen sockets
magnetic pickup
claw pickup
couple of very large open wrenches (NOT adjustables) 32mm; 27mm; 19mm (may have forgotten the exact sizes)
30mm deep socket
socket for crank bolt (is it 32?) with short extension (beefy ratchet)

 

Wow! Thanks for the info --- I'm making a list and I'm checking it twice. That post on the vacuum is a good idea too, although I guess I could make an appointment with Monica Lewinsky.

Cheers,

Dave

 

The mightyvac comes with a little cup that sits in line (in between the mightvac and the bleed nipple)to trap any brake fluid that comes through. You need to make sure you have a good seal between the MV hose and the bleed nipple or as air seeps in it will look like it is coming through the brake lines.

There have been some other posts on a pressure bleeder that you hook to the tank that looks like it would work well.

 

PLEASE get a lever type tool as shown here!
http://www.shop.com/amos/cc/main/cat...-Removal-Tools
remove the nut, turn it over, thread down until its flush with top of threaded shaft (assuming you want to re-use joint, it saves the threaded part from crushing), fit tool, tighten bolt TIGHT, tap end of tool above shaft, tighten again, until it pops out. The jaws of the tool may need some grinding inside the area that goes around the rubber boot on some models if its too tight. certainly some lubrication will assist here to get it far enough on to get the lever end over the bolt.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k, BTDT.....

 

all the porsche specialty tools you could ever want..http://www.sirtools.com/porsche_tools.htm

good stuff too...

im lucky enough to have a harbor freight outlet nearby, i went there on my way to work today for the first time...when one of the clerks asked me if i needed any help, all i could say is "yes, get a mop and wipe up my drool for me will ya?" ..
im never going to Sears again, this place is disney land in comparison.. ended up buying only a few things, snap ring pliers, a mini butane torch ive been looking for, and some other tidbits.. but now i know where im going to buy my engine stand and lift from...along with a ton of other stuff ive been wanting..and i can go there on my lunch break!!

 

Uh Eric, let me just say that you get what you pay for. I'll just leave it at that

 

lol, that i know... its a fun place though (haror freight that is).. quality ranges from "crapola" to " might be decent.." you just have to pick and choose carefully... they had two types of cherry pickers there, one had poor welds, and obviously wasnt of great quality, but id guess it would do the job..the other in my untrained eye was as good as anything ive seen in shops, heavy steel, good welds, thicker chains, etc.. i think there was only $50 in price difference for the "good" one.. same goes for most of the stuff there, if you look past the "sales", theres decent things to be found..
Sir tools has very good stuff, ive a bunch of their socket tools and never had a problem...

anyone know if K-mart will be exchanging "sears" craftman tools when they break?

 

I must admit that I bought one of my current favorite tools there... the cordless electric impact wrench (the orange and silver one) that I use to change wheels when autox'ing the MR2. What a time saver, that one. Still wouldn't want to depend on it to make a living though, I get some interesting noises and smells out of it periodically. Nearly every tool they sell was made in China and has NO meaningful warranty.