"NOT" Raising Rear. Help removing spacers and adding new studs?
10-04-2004, 02:08 AM
#31
Nordschleife Master
if smacking the spacer with a rubber mallet doesnt work then you "could" take a screw driver and lightly tap it between the 2, but take it easy and work your way around or you could damage the spacer.
10-04-2004, 07:11 AM
#32
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Ron,
After the factory spacers pop off - and they will - Dave has good advice on dealing with the 72mm studs AFTER you are comfortable with the wheel assembly fit. If you choose to eventually have the ~52mm studs pressed in, there is the half-shaft nut Dave 'lightly'
passed over, removal on the emergency brake cable from the hub (equally fun), etc.
In the short term, I'd leave the hubs alone, and snug the wheels on with a set of open conical nuts. For cosmetics, I suspect there is enough stud sticking through that you could "double nut" with the orriginal nuts - and it would look fine.
Otherwise, as mentioned before, cut the tops off the orriginal nuts, mount the wheels and be happy: later you can buy the 'long' nuts ....
.... change out of the studs may be deceptively easy ... but I don't think so ...
edit: John Veninger just posted Wallys method on rear wheel bearing R&R above for Jon ..http://www.nichols.nu/tip237.htm. To press the studs out, IIRC, you need to get the hub in a press, meaning 1/2 of the bearing is , well, destroyed: long studs aren't all that bad ...
After the factory spacers pop off - and they will - Dave has good advice on dealing with the 72mm studs AFTER you are comfortable with the wheel assembly fit. If you choose to eventually have the ~52mm studs pressed in, there is the half-shaft nut Dave 'lightly'
passed over, removal on the emergency brake cable from the hub (equally fun), etc.In the short term, I'd leave the hubs alone, and snug the wheels on with a set of open conical nuts. For cosmetics, I suspect there is enough stud sticking through that you could "double nut" with the orriginal nuts - and it would look fine.
Otherwise, as mentioned before, cut the tops off the orriginal nuts, mount the wheels and be happy: later you can buy the 'long' nuts ....
.... change out of the studs may be deceptively easy ... but I don't think so ...
edit: John Veninger just posted Wallys method on rear wheel bearing R&R above for Jon ..http://www.nichols.nu/tip237.htm. To press the studs out, IIRC, you need to get the hub in a press, meaning 1/2 of the bearing is , well, destroyed: long studs aren't all that bad ...
Last edited by Garth S; 10-04-2004 at 09:10 AM.
10-04-2004, 03:40 PM
#33
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roll the fender with a baseball bat. keeping it as close to vertical as possible, have someone drive the car slowly in reverse and in drive. use the handle of a WOOD bat. should turn out perfect.
the tires wont hit on the inside either as the motion of the wheel is toward the chassis as it goes up.
be careful, do it slowely and you will be pleased . better than raising the car, thats a bad idea.
mk
the tires wont hit on the inside either as the motion of the wheel is toward the chassis as it goes up.
be careful, do it slowely and you will be pleased . better than raising the car, thats a bad idea.
mk
10-04-2004, 05:32 PM
#34
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I just did this on my 85... not much of a PITA compared to other "fun" stuff you can (and probably will) do for your shark...but suspension/brakes/tires do require a bit more of an **** approach/to be done right/etc... (did I say that? oh my!) 
to fit that tire and be clear of inside AND outside rubbing (on the car), I had to use a smaller spacer on the inside AND had to roll the fenders... if you dump the spacer altogether, the tire can rub on the suspension under lift conditions (per DR at 928 SP)... since I prefer to leave rubbing to nascar, I had the fenders rolled too..
rubbing is probably no big deal until you tear a sidewall at 100mph - then things come into perspective rather quickly...since I've crashed enough for several lifetimes, I took the sissy way out and just did what I was told/recommended (for once)...doesn't mean we'll be crash proof, just that we'll have to work harder for it
lots here on rolling fenders...I had mine done while it was at the body shop for repaint and they did it for "free", presumably 'cause it was no big deal (or they were making so much on the job they just felt sorry for me/decided to skip primeror prep work/use watercolors/etc)... can't imagine a good shop would charge a lot to do it for you if you are uncomfortable using a bat on your car/having the kids work the gas while you are behind the car, etc...
lots of REALLY GOOD advice on this thread, so just take your time and you'll be fine.. whatever you do, please don't raise the car (it's bad for the rear and front end)- read the other threads on ride ht...it's not a cosmetic issue - it's really critical saftey/handling stuff for sure... excessive ht only insures you'll just have to hit a bigger bump before you damage something and get screwed (in a bad way). it could also cause you to spill your drink more easily- a really bad thing
uh, oh - it's not friday anymore...
to fit that tire and be clear of inside AND outside rubbing (on the car), I had to use a smaller spacer on the inside AND had to roll the fenders... if you dump the spacer altogether, the tire can rub on the suspension under lift conditions (per DR at 928 SP)... since I prefer to leave rubbing to nascar, I had the fenders rolled too..
rubbing is probably no big deal until you tear a sidewall at 100mph - then things come into perspective rather quickly...since I've crashed enough for several lifetimes, I took the sissy way out and just did what I was told/recommended (for once)...doesn't mean we'll be crash proof, just that we'll have to work harder for it
lots here on rolling fenders...I had mine done while it was at the body shop for repaint and they did it for "free", presumably 'cause it was no big deal (or they were making so much on the job they just felt sorry for me/decided to skip primeror prep work/use watercolors/etc)... can't imagine a good shop would charge a lot to do it for you if you are uncomfortable using a bat on your car/having the kids work the gas while you are behind the car, etc...
lots of REALLY GOOD advice on this thread, so just take your time and you'll be fine.. whatever you do, please don't raise the car (it's bad for the rear and front end)- read the other threads on ride ht...it's not a cosmetic issue - it's really critical saftey/handling stuff for sure... excessive ht only insures you'll just have to hit a bigger bump before you damage something and get screwed (in a bad way). it could also cause you to spill your drink more easily- a really bad thing
uh, oh - it's not friday anymore...
10-04-2004, 06:41 PM
#35
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if you just clear the inside bottom of the fender, you will not hit while driving.(especially if your alignment is 1degree or 1.5 in the rear.) trust me, i know what a bad fit can cause. if you are racing and its rubbing up top in the fender, forget about blow outs, it can push the tire OFF the rim by breaking the bead. then, the tire is toast, and you could be too. thats why if its too close, you need to bang out the inside of the fender. on our 79, we only rolled and used a small 1/8 spacer for a 315 tire . close, but no problems. (thats with a 8" backspaced rear 11" rear wheel)
mk
mk
10-04-2004, 08:41 PM
#36
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At SITM this year - DR had a really cool TOOL that mounted to the hub and adjusted with a teflon roller to 'roll' the fender. It is important to use a heat gun/hair dryer to heat the paint a bit - otherwise you risk cracking the paint.
Maybe a local has one you could use...
Maybe a local has one you could use...
10-04-2004, 11:04 PM
#37
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Mission Accomplished.
Everyone,
Thank you so much for talking me into not messing with the coil adjusters.
Ended up using the Garth's double nut idea and all is well for now. Bought some chrome beveled lug nuts and then installed my new locking lug nuts on top of them with the rest of the closed lug nuts. Operates safe too.
Please note tire direction correct now too. Thanks on that too.
Thank You to all that added to helping me with this clearing up mess.
I'm out!
Ron
Thank you so much for talking me into not messing with the coil adjusters.
Ended up using the Garth's double nut idea and all is well for now. Bought some chrome beveled lug nuts and then installed my new locking lug nuts on top of them with the rest of the closed lug nuts. Operates safe too.
Please note tire direction correct now too. Thanks on that too.
Thank You to all that added to helping me with this clearing up mess.
I'm out!
Ron
10-04-2004, 11:13 PM
#38
Race Car
What a good outcome!
I had figured that upon double-nutting, the outside lug nuts would protrude unusually far and in an unsightly manner.
I figured wrong! The lugs look good.
It is great to see some easy elegant solutions for our 928s on occasion.
I had figured that upon double-nutting, the outside lug nuts would protrude unusually far and in an unsightly manner.
I figured wrong! The lugs look good.
It is great to see some easy elegant solutions for our 928s on occasion.
10-04-2004, 11:58 PM
#39
Three Wheelin'
Ron, when you get ready to "fix" the stud problem, you could always run a open end lug nut down the stud till the 12mm of stud is sticking out, then get a cut-off wheel and a die grinder and cut the 12mm of stud off, using the lug nut thats on there as a guide, then screw the lug nut off and it will straighten the threads if they need it, then your done. Ive done this on may cars including my 944, works great.
10-05-2004, 01:09 AM
#41
Rennlist Member
Nice job Ron, looks really nice!
Justin, I had thought of that but it tends to be a bit more involved doing it right. I would recommend using a file to clean up the cut and chamfer the end of the stud and the first thread like stock before removing the clean-up nut(or thread chaser, ideally). The soft aluminum lug nuts could get buggered up pretty easliy on a jagged stud. I was more focused on trying to get Ron to keep his mitts off of the shocks to get into that next step in great detail though.
Justin, I had thought of that but it tends to be a bit more involved doing it right. I would recommend using a file to clean up the cut and chamfer the end of the stud and the first thread like stock before removing the clean-up nut(or thread chaser, ideally). The soft aluminum lug nuts could get buggered up pretty easliy on a jagged stud. I was more focused on trying to get Ron to keep his mitts off of the shocks to get into that next step in great detail though.
10-05-2004, 07:07 PM
#42
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AWESOME! looks great!! haven't decided what to do w/my studs yet, but I remember something about a deeper lug...hate to bugger it up in case a wheel change is needed someday... supposed to be done at body shop tomorrow, so we'll see... great photos advice and work!!!
10-05-2004, 07:12 PM
#43
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I put on deeper lug nuts rather than cut/exchange the studs. And I have the ability to go back to stock should I need/want to.
By the way those 18's look fantastic!!
By the way those 18's look fantastic!!
10-05-2004, 07:57 PM
#45
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Rob went down to the local tire shop and asked for some deep well lug nuts, what I got are some big chrome SOB's but they work and you need a 7/8" socket to put 'em on take 'em off, and they leave just enough room to get a regular socket on 'em. No room for a lug wrench or impact socket.