Sagging Bumper Cover Syndrome - SBCS
09-18-2004, 06:15 PM
#1
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Sagging Bumper Cover Syndrome - SBCS
Over the last couple of years, my '90 S4 has developed what I'll call "Sagging Bumper Cover Syndrome". As I'm talking about the rear cover and not the front, I don't think a bra is the answer. 
Here are a few photos which show the gap that's appearing at the top corners, and dimples (I think these are related, but I'm not sure) that are appearing near the bottom.
Has anyone else experienced this problem? Before trying to adjust various fasteners, I'm wondering if anyone else has dealt with this before and what you did to fix it.
I'm guessing that I might be able to start by loosening the two cap head bolts inside the recessed tail light area shown below and see if I can do some adjusting there. Maybe at the same time, loosen the four bolts under the plastic covers along the hatch seal area (does this allow for some front-to-back adjusting?)
Anyway, any BTDTs or other advice (preferably, on this topic
) would be appreciated.
Here are a few photos which show the gap that's appearing at the top corners, and dimples (I think these are related, but I'm not sure) that are appearing near the bottom.
Has anyone else experienced this problem? Before trying to adjust various fasteners, I'm wondering if anyone else has dealt with this before and what you did to fix it.
I'm guessing that I might be able to start by loosening the two cap head bolts inside the recessed tail light area shown below and see if I can do some adjusting there. Maybe at the same time, loosen the four bolts under the plastic covers along the hatch seal area (does this allow for some front-to-back adjusting?)
Anyway, any BTDTs or other advice (preferably, on this topic
) would be appreciated.
09-18-2004, 06:29 PM
#2
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Hi
Buy new ones. That is really the only option. Your front cover was repaired and reapainted and they didn't put the hard to reach nuts back on properly behind the headlights.
Good luck
Buy new ones. That is really the only option. Your front cover was repaired and reapainted and they didn't put the hard to reach nuts back on properly behind the headlights.
Good luck
09-18-2004, 08:36 PM
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erm
Those shots are all of the back of the car... anyways my 84S has some of the same gaps around the bead like yours does. It has never been painted or repaired... don't know the answer to this but I would like to hear some input as well.
Karl
Karl
09-19-2004, 12:06 AM
#4
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Park your car upside down when you're not driving it. After 14 years or so it should be back to normal, and you can either begin alternating years or wait another 14.... 
09-19-2004, 01:05 AM
#5
Ed,
This is from 81/82'MY experience, take with a grain of salt.
As to the beaded -stapled rubberized filler trim bead- there is a five (5) screw heavy aluminum cover strip that retains the shape of the upper center of the rear bumper cover and trim bead in place -same for the front-. The 'tail' of the trim piece may or may not be long enough to have holes for the retaining screws but in my experience the 'tail' has simply been stapled in place to the bumper cover. The five retaining screws thru the heavy aluminum trim piece are connected to sliding nut plates on the body. There are 6, 8mm hex bolts, - potted in-, nuts and washers at the aft end of the fenders on the pass. side and 5 on the drivers side, the drivers side are harder to reach due exhaust components and aft splash shield, there is no aft splash shield on the pass. side of the 81/82' MY . The pass. side of the 81/82' MY does have some interference due to the fuel filler neck. The reason I mention these screws and bolts is that they are slotted and a little oversize to shift things around for proper fitment.
I would hazard a guess that the lower cover dimpling and the exposure of the stapled trim bead was caused by eiter the screws and bolts were not tightened enough and vibration , over time, let the cover shift around. The only other concievable cause of movement was that you were HIT and didn't know it ! The covers are incredibly resilient even after 20 or so years. I'm talking severe deformation and they usually pop back into shape on their own or after retaining bolts are loosened and a heat gun is applied . Unless they are scraped pretty hard even the paint looks normal, though sometimes the paint will develope fine micro-cracks, age and weathering being a big factor.
Oops the bumper guards have to have the tension released as well if you are going to adjust the cover , two (2) 14 or17 mm nuts and washers per bumper with the bumper studs being molded to the bumpers. The 81/82' MY have the bathtub rear muffler and it would behove you to simply drop the exhaust system, the aft hanger being the worst of that job to remove as there is at least one blind allen set -you can't see it ( sounds worse than it is). As always I recommend a deck type lift or ramps for this job, better yet ramp the front and jack stands for the rear so you can pull the rear tires for improved work space.
Enjoy
FWIW; I agree with all the other BTDT cover removers: 1/4" drive rachet, varying lenghth extensions and a universal.
This is from 81/82'MY experience, take with a grain of salt.
As to the beaded -stapled rubberized filler trim bead- there is a five (5) screw heavy aluminum cover strip that retains the shape of the upper center of the rear bumper cover and trim bead in place -same for the front-. The 'tail' of the trim piece may or may not be long enough to have holes for the retaining screws but in my experience the 'tail' has simply been stapled in place to the bumper cover. The five retaining screws thru the heavy aluminum trim piece are connected to sliding nut plates on the body. There are 6, 8mm hex bolts, - potted in-, nuts and washers at the aft end of the fenders on the pass. side and 5 on the drivers side, the drivers side are harder to reach due exhaust components and aft splash shield, there is no aft splash shield on the pass. side of the 81/82' MY . The pass. side of the 81/82' MY does have some interference due to the fuel filler neck. The reason I mention these screws and bolts is that they are slotted and a little oversize to shift things around for proper fitment.
I would hazard a guess that the lower cover dimpling and the exposure of the stapled trim bead was caused by eiter the screws and bolts were not tightened enough and vibration , over time, let the cover shift around. The only other concievable cause of movement was that you were HIT and didn't know it ! The covers are incredibly resilient even after 20 or so years. I'm talking severe deformation and they usually pop back into shape on their own or after retaining bolts are loosened and a heat gun is applied . Unless they are scraped pretty hard even the paint looks normal, though sometimes the paint will develope fine micro-cracks, age and weathering being a big factor.
Oops the bumper guards have to have the tension released as well if you are going to adjust the cover , two (2) 14 or17 mm nuts and washers per bumper with the bumper studs being molded to the bumpers. The 81/82' MY have the bathtub rear muffler and it would behove you to simply drop the exhaust system, the aft hanger being the worst of that job to remove as there is at least one blind allen set -you can't see it ( sounds worse than it is). As always I recommend a deck type lift or ramps for this job, better yet ramp the front and jack stands for the rear so you can pull the rear tires for improved work space.
Enjoy
FWIW; I agree with all the other BTDT cover removers: 1/4" drive rachet, varying lenghth extensions and a universal.
09-19-2004, 02:17 AM
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Ed Scherer. My car has the identicle problem as yours. I only noticed this after a so-called repair. I have the dimpling but not such a pronounced showing of the stainless steel staples.You have to look harder than that to see them. I'm glad you posted this. Would ya please post your results after you do the adjustments-I'd appreciate it-Mike
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09-19-2004, 08:27 PM
#10
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In a simialr vein, I have noticed that my front lights do not sit in the bumper cover the same from left to right . ie, on the left , the line of the metal light trim is ~ 1.5" back from the front edge of the cover, but on the right it is at least 2-2 1/4" back, and I can actually see a hole in the bottom of the plastic under the light trim. I can undo all the screw holding the trim in place, but I cant get it off because the outer end seems trapped by the cover. I havent had a good look from in behind yet, but I am guessing that the actual metal bumper underneath is bent back, or its support is damaged.
Anybody know what the bumper support is on a Euro - is this a pull the whole bumper job to fix, or could I do something about it from underneath/indside there?
TIA,
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
Anybody know what the bumper support is on a Euro - is this a pull the whole bumper job to fix, or could I do something about it from underneath/indside there?
TIA,
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
09-20-2004, 01:58 AM
#11
JP,
Eyeball the bottom of spoiler area as well as any lower mount points for the bumper cover proper for loose/missing hardware or mount area distortion/damage..
FWIW
While the front and rear bumper covers are similar with respect to the shape and length of the mount holes. And there is a similar stiffener -5 screw aluminum trim piece- I don't believe there is sufficient play to give you a full 3/4" of slop to either side.
Additionally, what you are describing is fore/aft play on one side, not side to side and, or, vertical play. Perhaps the BumperBeam is misaligned bent, or has been hit in the past and the bumper shock on one side is jammed IN. One other thing might be loose bumper beam mount hardware though you would probably hear it rattling at low speed on rough streets.
Good luck -keep us posted-.
Eyeball the bottom of spoiler area as well as any lower mount points for the bumper cover proper for loose/missing hardware or mount area distortion/damage..
FWIW
While the front and rear bumper covers are similar with respect to the shape and length of the mount holes. And there is a similar stiffener -5 screw aluminum trim piece- I don't believe there is sufficient play to give you a full 3/4" of slop to either side.
Additionally, what you are describing is fore/aft play on one side, not side to side and, or, vertical play. Perhaps the BumperBeam is misaligned bent, or has been hit in the past and the bumper shock on one side is jammed IN. One other thing might be loose bumper beam mount hardware though you would probably hear it rattling at low speed on rough streets.
Good luck -keep us posted-.
09-20-2004, 03:13 AM
#12
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John, the only other ood bit on the fornt cover is a bulge on the joint, which looks like a loose ficing bolt - I have seen this bulge on several other cars, so it is not that unusual. I suspect the shock is crushed at least partly or some similar aberration. I once saw some pics of bumper cover removal party, but of course when I need it, I cant find it.....
I will get in there soon I hope, whittling down the to-do list.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
I will get in there soon I hope, whittling down the to-do list.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
