M/T Fluid Changing Question(s) - Royal Purple Time! - Oil Viscosity Question as well.
#1
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I did search the system, didn’t find what I was looking for. So if you find any, let me know what you searched for. I could swear I remember a thread on this topic, but I cannot find it.
Anyway.
I have records of my car from 60k to the present (93k). No sign of tranny fluid ever being replaced. I'm doing an oil change this week on the Shark, might as well tackle this job.
1. What weight do I buy? (probably going with Royal Purple)
2. Any tricks to getting out all the old fluid? I did find some threads in the 944 room about using the 3/4" tube method, not 100% sure what that is.
3. Anything else I should know for this job? Torque specs for the bolt etc.....
EDIT - Oil question:
I run 15w-50 Mobil 1 right now. Royal Purple only comes in:
Standard:
5W20, 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50
Racing:
0W10, 5W20, 5W30, 10W40, 20W50
I spoke Royal Purple last year at SEMA. They said there is no reason why their Racing Oil cannot be using in a normal street car. The only reason it's called their "racing" formula is they don't submit it for SAE certification. They said they change the formula so often, it wouldn't pay to certify.
Anyway.
I have records of my car from 60k to the present (93k). No sign of tranny fluid ever being replaced. I'm doing an oil change this week on the Shark, might as well tackle this job.
1. What weight do I buy? (probably going with Royal Purple)
2. Any tricks to getting out all the old fluid? I did find some threads in the 944 room about using the 3/4" tube method, not 100% sure what that is.
3. Anything else I should know for this job? Torque specs for the bolt etc.....
EDIT - Oil question:
I run 15w-50 Mobil 1 right now. Royal Purple only comes in:
Standard:
5W20, 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50
Racing:
0W10, 5W20, 5W30, 10W40, 20W50
I spoke Royal Purple last year at SEMA. They said there is no reason why their Racing Oil cannot be using in a normal street car. The only reason it's called their "racing" formula is they don't submit it for SAE certification. They said they change the formula so often, it wouldn't pay to certify.
Last edited by hacker-pschorr; 08-30-2004 at 04:52 PM.
#2
Nordschleife Master
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Regular gear oil for the manaul tranny. 75w90.
There are plugs on the front and back of the tranny. You need to remove both to get all of the fluid out. The plugs have a take a big Allen wench to remove. This socket can be found at ordinary parts stores as the "VW" tranny plug tool.
Clean the plugs as some (all?) have that magnetic thing in them.
Filling is a PITA. The best I've done is to run a hose through the battery box to the upper plug on the rear. There's an extra hole in the battery box. Then put a funnel in the hose and clamp the thing to a ladder. Just keep filling the funnel. Will take a hour or two to run in as the hose can't be too big to fit through the holes and the oil is thick.
There are plugs on the front and back of the tranny. You need to remove both to get all of the fluid out. The plugs have a take a big Allen wench to remove. This socket can be found at ordinary parts stores as the "VW" tranny plug tool.
Clean the plugs as some (all?) have that magnetic thing in them.
Filling is a PITA. The best I've done is to run a hose through the battery box to the upper plug on the rear. There's an extra hole in the battery box. Then put a funnel in the hose and clamp the thing to a ladder. Just keep filling the funnel. Will take a hour or two to run in as the hose can't be too big to fit through the holes and the oil is thick.
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I'm sure once I climb under the car it will make sense. I can't say I've spent much time, if any under that end of the car. I remember being suggested to set the gear lube bottle into boiling water to heat it up to make pouring it in less time consuming.
Will I need to suck any fluid out the top or will enough drain out on its own?
If you see my 928 at RA this weekend, all went well, if not see below for my possible transportation.
I'll be using this stuff, I'm assuming one bottle will be enough? 1 Quart?
Will I need to suck any fluid out the top or will enough drain out on its own?
If you see my 928 at RA this weekend, all went well, if not see below for my possible transportation.
I'll be using this stuff, I'm assuming one bottle will be enough? 1 Quart?
#4
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It takes four quarts. Do check your manual on that.
There are actually three plugs on the tranny. One drain plug each on front and rear and then a fill plug higher up on the rear.
The old oil will flow out on it's own.
If you see my 928 at RA this weekend, say hi. Planning to be there for the sprint races on Sunday.
There are actually three plugs on the tranny. One drain plug each on front and rear and then a fill plug higher up on the rear.
The old oil will flow out on it's own.
If you see my 928 at RA this weekend, say hi. Planning to be there for the sprint races on Sunday.
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If I remember right the capacity is about 1 gallon or 4.5 liters. I would make sure you can remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug. Mine was rounded out and it took me forever to remove it. I think it takes a 17mm allen to remove the plugs. Also like Glen says, it is a pain to refill and takes forever but the improved shift quality is worth it.
Cheers,
Jeff
Cheers,
Jeff
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Hi,
the correct specification lubricant must always be used so it must be "GL5" rated and have a 75w-90 viscosity
A synthetic lubricant will work better (especially in winter) and Castrol's Syntrax 75w-90 (a GL5 of course) is probably the best available. It is used here in our V8 SuperCar series as the oil of choice.
Castrol which is now part of the BP-ARAL group still makes dedicated gear oils but this one may be sold with a different name in North America. Castrol can advise I am sure. It can be treated as a "fill for life" - 60k miles easily
I have used this product in heavy 500hp OTR trucks (no oil change for 1m kms (620k miles)) and in my cars etc for well over a decade and a half. It has been in both my 928s from purchase date
Regards
Doug
Regards
the correct specification lubricant must always be used so it must be "GL5" rated and have a 75w-90 viscosity
A synthetic lubricant will work better (especially in winter) and Castrol's Syntrax 75w-90 (a GL5 of course) is probably the best available. It is used here in our V8 SuperCar series as the oil of choice.
Castrol which is now part of the BP-ARAL group still makes dedicated gear oils but this one may be sold with a different name in North America. Castrol can advise I am sure. It can be treated as a "fill for life" - 60k miles easily
I have used this product in heavy 500hp OTR trucks (no oil change for 1m kms (620k miles)) and in my cars etc for well over a decade and a half. It has been in both my 928s from purchase date
Regards
Doug
Regards
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Sounds like a plan, thanks guys!
Everytime I tackle a new project, I find all kinds of neat web sites. I'm sure many have been to www.zdmak.com, they have some great tools. Looks like this is the 17mm socket I'll need for the job, I'll check Sears to, they should have a 17mm, like to keep all my tools the same if possible. Made by Hazet:
Everytime I tackle a new project, I find all kinds of neat web sites. I'm sure many have been to www.zdmak.com, they have some great tools. Looks like this is the 17mm socket I'll need for the job, I'll check Sears to, they should have a 17mm, like to keep all my tools the same if possible. Made by Hazet:
![](https://members.rennlist.com/hacker_pschorr/hhaz98517.jpg)
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Doug - The Royal Purple I posted is GL5.
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Hacker,
I have some gear oil that came in a plastic bottle with a pump. Much easier to just pump the oil then using gravity. It came with crappy oil, so I just emptied it, cleaned and refilled it with better stuff.
I have some gear oil that came in a plastic bottle with a pump. Much easier to just pump the oil then using gravity. It came with crappy oil, so I just emptied it, cleaned and refilled it with better stuff.
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Rez, I saw something like that on Hot Rod TV or TRUCKS! or one of the other SPIKE! Tv car shows.
Any "Yay" or "Nay" on the heating the gear lube in boiling water idea?
Any "Yay" or "Nay" on the heating the gear lube in boiling water idea?
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Hi,
I hope your Royal Purple synthetic oil is as good as the Hazet tools are
I am sure it will be - but I always have a few worries when I see limited slip lubricants being used in transaxles - sometimes its OK and sometimes not. Some 928 users here have stated they have not had any problems when using them - it is usually slightly less of an issue with synthetics and if the container is endorsed as "GL4 and GL5"
Please post your experience after the change regarding shift quality and selection etc so we all can share
Regards
I hope your Royal Purple synthetic oil is as good as the Hazet tools are
I am sure it will be - but I always have a few worries when I see limited slip lubricants being used in transaxles - sometimes its OK and sometimes not. Some 928 users here have stated they have not had any problems when using them - it is usually slightly less of an issue with synthetics and if the container is endorsed as "GL4 and GL5"
Please post your experience after the change regarding shift quality and selection etc so we all can share
Regards
#12
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Doug - I plan to share any pros / cons. I'm pretty sure my car is limited slip, and this stuff is GL5. I know a few Audi and Volvo guys that started running this stuff last year in their trannies, so far all positive.
Assuming Jegs gets the order out today, I'll have the change done by Thursday / Friday.
I forgot to ask, I run 15w-50 Mobil 1 right now. Royal Purple only comes in:
Standard:
5W20, 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50
Racing:
0W10, 5W20, 5W30, 10W40, 20W50
I spoke Royal Purple last year at SEMA. They said there is no reason why their Racing Oil cannot be using in a normal street car. The only reason it's called their "racing" formula is they don't submit it for SAE certification. They said they change the formula so often, it wouldn't pay to certify.
Assuming Jegs gets the order out today, I'll have the change done by Thursday / Friday.
I forgot to ask, I run 15w-50 Mobil 1 right now. Royal Purple only comes in:
Standard:
5W20, 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50
Racing:
0W10, 5W20, 5W30, 10W40, 20W50
I spoke Royal Purple last year at SEMA. They said there is no reason why their Racing Oil cannot be using in a normal street car. The only reason it's called their "racing" formula is they don't submit it for SAE certification. They said they change the formula so often, it wouldn't pay to certify.
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When I did my gear oil change, I grabbed the garden hose and chopped off about 8 feet of it. I stripped back several inches of the green outer coating, which exposed the black rubber interior, and it fit in the fill hole perfect and snug. I ran the hose from the fill hole, up and out through the wheel well and stuck a funnel in the end of it. I attached the funnel to a ladder. It didn't take very long to fill it.
A cheap garden hose probably costs less than 3/4" tubing that is sold by the foot at the hardware store.
A cheap garden hose probably costs less than 3/4" tubing that is sold by the foot at the hardware store.
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One more bone-head question.
If the gear lube I'm buying comes in 1 quart bottles. Should I buy 4 bottles or pay the $12.95 for a 5th just in case it needs a bit more? Or dump all four bottls in and that's it.
If the gear lube I'm buying comes in 1 quart bottles. Should I buy 4 bottles or pay the $12.95 for a 5th just in case it needs a bit more? Or dump all four bottls in and that's it.