hacker-pschorr

Any specific torque specs for these three bolts?

Use anti-sieze on them?

Are you wondering how long I can drag out a simple thread about changing fluids?

Thanks guys - hopefully all will go well.

Doug Hillary

Hello,
I am a firm believer in filling transaxles, transmissions etc. to the correct level. It has as much to do with cooling as ensuring that the oil's reserve when "circulating" immerses those parts that need it and do not cause foaming

But Glen has done his thing and it works for him

Royal Purple is a "boutique" oil blender - and probably a good one too. Their Racing oils are proably very good. Sadly they not Quality Rate their products according to International standards, they also do not publish data that enables their products - especially their engine oils - to be directly compared with others
Like Amsoil and Redline they also purchase their basestocks (and additive packages) from certain major suppliers who also make their own well known products. Rarely do they have access to the very latest technologies

Royal Purple's "Racing" oil range data does not allow confirmation that it is suitable for use on the road according to Porsche's recommended/established oil change intervals. I seriously doubt that they would and I would not use in that type of application! Their normal "Standard" range oils and especially their SAE 15w-40 "mixed fleet" oil looks OK!

Porsche have used "Approval" Lists for many many years and these embrace the European ACEA's and American API's standards and test protocols - plus their own. These are very important issues in measuring a lubricant's ability to perform the intended task as Porsche intended. This applies to film strength, anti foaming, volatility and durability etc.

The correct viscosity for your car is 15w-50 according to your operating ambient of course. A 20w-50 is approved too but a 15w-50 has better characteristics during warm up. If you are using Mobil's M1 15w-50 SuperSyn (and not the old Trisynthetic) oil at present you are using the most technically advanced oil available anywhere. Forget the hype that may surround the others. Their SuperSyn range of oils include' the SuperSyn package which is sold as basestock to a number of other oil companies/oil blenders

Regards

hacker-pschorr

Thanks Doug, don't worry, no "Hype" here running through my head. Just info talking to 928 racers that swore off Mobile 1. Right now my car is street / autocross used, hopefully next year it will be more track / autocross than street.

For the track I plan to switch from Mobile 1 to one of the big three "boutique" oils (Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple). I have some spare time this week, this is why the idea for my trannie popped in my head to get that done since I've put it off for so long now.

I agree that for street use Mobile 1 is all I need, just gathering data for the future.

Garth S

If you do not locate a 17mm allan key, double nut a 17mm hex head bolt - and stick it in the closed end of a 17mm wrench: works great. Also, if any of the 3 plugs stick, insert the tool, and strike the end with a hammer (be reasonable - striking an aluminium casting ): this shock will loosen the threads.

Steve J.

As was already mentioned, make sure the fill plug will come out before you drain the gearbox. The plugs are quite shallow and many times already wallowed out and over-tightened. Some hex socket head tools are chamfered on the end and you can't get a good bite on the plug (the one on the right). I found it helpful to grind the end of the socket flat for better seating in the plug (the one on the left). After soaking in penetrating oil for a day, I used a heat gun on the case around a stuck drain plug that wouldn't budge. As a last resort, you can remove the back cover on the gearbox to wrestle the stuck plug loose while clamped in your workbench vise. Re-install the plugs using anti-seize and don't overtighten!