Adjustable drop links
#4
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I've heard lots of good things about the Ott droplinks. I think any of the big 3 can get them. No personal experience with the Ott droplinks, but it's a very common and important thing to be able to adjust on performance/race cars.
#5
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There are pros and cons to adjustable drop links. In this case, it is WAY cheaper than a new bar.
They do alter geometry and loading across the bar, so they are not a perfect solution, but many folks seem to have good luck with them.
Greg
They do alter geometry and loading across the bar, so they are not a perfect solution, but many folks seem to have good luck with them.
Greg
#6
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I installed the Ott drop links in the back. I have them set to the "stiffest" setting, (there are only 2 positions as I recall). The impact on my car is that the tail stays flat with greater steering input.
(I beleive this induces over steer, I could be wrong. The reason I say this is the tail end doesl slip out sooner with steering input). In my case, since I don't race the car, what I get is a noticeably quicker response to steering input, especially ar highway speeds. The car resists body roll quite notiecably.
I am a happy camper.
(I beleive this induces over steer, I could be wrong. The reason I say this is the tail end doesl slip out sooner with steering input). In my case, since I don't race the car, what I get is a noticeably quicker response to steering input, especially ar highway speeds. The car resists body roll quite notiecably.
I am a happy camper.
#7
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I have them on all 4 corners. They made a large improvement in the handling of my car. I have them on medium right now. With the current setting, i have experienced a noticiable increase in oversteer. All in all, i like it much better, and the car seems to track with precision it didnt have before. I would definately do it again. On another note, the ott links are designed better than the factory links. They provide a nice "channel" that protects the bottom bushing and cradles the rollbar ends. I have seen many previous 928 with the stock exposed lower rod seriousl damaged as there is no protection for it. It is my theory that these links become damaged in automatic car washes, as the rail that guides the tire is too high for the 928, and the bottom of the drop link takes a beating. The ott links look to be carwash friendly.
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#8
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Like Gretch will EVER see the inside of a car wash............................
#9
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The standard sway bar has the drop links attached at a specific mounting point. The Ott droplinks move the mounting point inward, towards the point where the sway bar attaches to the body. This reduction reduces the leverage action (thereby increasing the resistance) of one side of the suspension against the other. It mimics using a stronger/larger/stiffer bar. I think they're sort of pricey for the hardware you get, but there's no doubt that it helps and is therefore worth what you pay for 'em. But I would've rather paid $50 or $100 rather than IIRC, $185.
Jim Bailey has posted before that if you're considering upgrading to bigger bars, to be sure to weld in some extra meat/support, or the bar can tear the mounts off the body which is much more expensive to fix rather than prevent.
Jim Bailey has posted before that if you're considering upgrading to bigger bars, to be sure to weld in some extra meat/support, or the bar can tear the mounts off the body which is much more expensive to fix rather than prevent.
#10
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That remark was of course not aimed at Gretch. The car wash damage was already done on my s4. I am sure that there are some rennlisters here who have taken their cars to an automated washes, or had PO that had. Check your driver side front drop link bottom, chances are there will be carwash evidence.
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#11
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I got a pair of adjustable drop link and I am undecided to put them on the front or back. Were would they benefit more. I will set them at factory length for now. I understand a little bit more about over steer under steer thank to a smart little aussie I work with. I have no understanding on how to calculate it, where to set the links depth or anything like that. Even though you guys have done good explaining is there anyplace I can read on the link like a "links for Dummies" type thing?
#12
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Joe, basic rule of thumb is this: stiffen the bar on the opposite end of the car from the end that is breaking loose too soon for your taste. Stiffening the front bar or loosening the rear bar will increase understeer. Stiffening the rear bar or loosening the front bar will increase oversteer. Stiffening or loosening is not accomplished by changing the length of the link, but rather by moving the link pivot toward or away from the sway bar pivot bushings. Toward to tighten.
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Originally Posted by jserio
I got a pair of adjustable drop link and I am undecided to put them on the front or back.
The fronts and rears are NOT interchangeable....they will only go on the end they were designed for. THe fronts are much shorter then the rears...
#14
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It may be an oversimplification to limit the control of oversteer/understeer to the settings/stiffness of the bars. Spring stiffness and behavior characteristics are also a factor and ride quality preferences are a consideration. Stiff springs limiting weight transfer and also body roll can also induce over/under steer. It all works together and depends on your driving patterns. All other things equal, Sharkskin is correct.
#15
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The links are adjustable on two planes. The length adjusts so that you can eliminate side-to-side preload by dialing them to neutral. There are multiple holes drilled into the mounting bracket (that connects the droplink to the bar). As you move the mounting point inboard (towards the mounting point of the bar itself), you make the bar stiffer.
Given the propensity to understeer, I would recommend tightening up the back first. My PO had them just on the front, which introduced a lot of problems I wasn't aware of until I had the rears on (like tramlining/wandering, even more understeer, etc.).
Previous posts are right: They are not switchable front/rear.
Given the propensity to understeer, I would recommend tightening up the back first. My PO had them just on the front, which introduced a lot of problems I wasn't aware of until I had the rears on (like tramlining/wandering, even more understeer, etc.).
Previous posts are right: They are not switchable front/rear.