Replacing rear shocks any advice
#1
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One of the rear shocks (Boge) is leaking and needs replacing. I'm going to order replacements this week, but while I'm at it anything else I should order and replace while I'm in there?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
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A set of rear drop links?
On the big "pin" at the bottom make sure you put the washers back in correctly
Ive got a write up on my site..link below
On the big "pin" at the bottom make sure you put the washers back in correctly
Ive got a write up on my site..link below
#3
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On the lower 'pin' Tony mentions, take advantage of the week delay, and squirt some mild lube (eg, WD-40) in at each available opening along its ~10" length - and a shot of penetrating oil on the nuts. These things can 'bond' to the rubber bushings, and need an air wrench to loosen - after double nutting one end: lightly grease the shaft on reinstall.
The rears are a' piece of cake' to do.
The rears are a' piece of cake' to do.
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#8
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On ce you're used to the job it takes about 30 minutes a wheel. You'll need EXCELLENT spring compressors. This is the single most important part of the job, I recommend overspending. Do not use something with aluminium on steel, those metals bind and waste precious effort and time. The big axle will fall to the ground, so keep something under it when you pull it. The washers fall out as you pull it, and you need to look carefully at the shop manual to orient them. Clean and re-lube with grease that pin. The nuts at front and back are a pain, you want only the front nut to come off so start there with a simple wrench and remove that one before touching the other (rear) one. You will need help re-raising the shock into the body through the stud holes and someone to instal the nuts while you blindly push from beneath.
A LOT to forget so go over every nut and item again to ensure it is all good. Ensure you instal everything oriented right way such as the seat on the chock, and the threaded sleeve - do not invert accidentally, easy to do. To remove the sleeve, lube it with Liquid Wrench (far superior to WD40) by spraying along the shock body and letting it run down and sit. Do it now. Then when you're ready and the shock/coil are off the car, be very careful, that amuminium is very vewry soft and can easily be damaged. I recommend using something like a custom-made steel plate to spread impact around the bottom edge of the sleeve. Hammer against the adjustable part rsather than the sleeve itself if you can avoid it. If not, use a steel flat piece of bar and put it between your sleeve and the hammer.
A LOT to forget so go over every nut and item again to ensure it is all good. Ensure you instal everything oriented right way such as the seat on the chock, and the threaded sleeve - do not invert accidentally, easy to do. To remove the sleeve, lube it with Liquid Wrench (far superior to WD40) by spraying along the shock body and letting it run down and sit. Do it now. Then when you're ready and the shock/coil are off the car, be very careful, that amuminium is very vewry soft and can easily be damaged. I recommend using something like a custom-made steel plate to spread impact around the bottom edge of the sleeve. Hammer against the adjustable part rsather than the sleeve itself if you can avoid it. If not, use a steel flat piece of bar and put it between your sleeve and the hammer.
#9
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On ce you're used to the job it takes about 30 minutes a wheel. You'll need EXCELLENT spring compressors. This is the single most important part of the job, I recommend overspending. Do not use something with aluminium on steel, those metals bind and waste precious effort and time.
#10
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Boge (Sachs) stock shocks $430 for a set of 4 - could not resist the pitch 8>)
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
#11
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I highly recommend against what I bought and used with great pain and suffering and LOTS of !@#% ... http://www.midwayautosupply.com/show...iliateid=10050
This would be the best, but way too expensive http://www.mile-x.com/index.asp?Page...ROD&ProdID=820
These look good because of the double (stabilising) claws as opposed to stupid U-bolts with frustrating nuts that the unit I bought, has http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1634 ... Make sure it has no aluminium ... but I like this item and will likeely buy it for future jobs. I did many years ago own one very much like that and it was very good.
This would be the best, but way too expensive http://www.mile-x.com/index.asp?Page...ROD&ProdID=820
These look good because of the double (stabilising) claws as opposed to stupid U-bolts with frustrating nuts that the unit I bought, has http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1634 ... Make sure it has no aluminium ... but I like this item and will likeely buy it for future jobs. I did many years ago own one very much like that and it was very good.
#14
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When I did my shocks and springs I used 3 out of 2 sets per assembly...............those springs are leathal.
I bought them from Princess Auto which I believe is somewhat equivalent to HF.
I bought them from Princess Auto which I believe is somewhat equivalent to HF.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/compressor.jpg)