Replacing rear shocks any advice
#16
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I gave up on the threaded rod compressors (I have 2 pairs) when I saw how many metal filings were coming off the threaded rod while compressing front springs using my impact wrench.
I ended up taking mine to Greg Brown. Money well spent, especially since he did them for free.....
Seems to me that the local groups of owners around the country could each go in on one of these, for $200. It'd pay for itself in a single big clinic day where 2-3 cars get their shocks done.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B1032...ayphotohosting
I ended up taking mine to Greg Brown. Money well spent, especially since he did them for free.....
Seems to me that the local groups of owners around the country could each go in on one of these, for $200. It'd pay for itself in a single big clinic day where 2-3 cars get their shocks done.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B1032...ayphotohosting
#17
Nordschleife Master
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oooohhhhh
that is cool!
Rob, you are always on top of the tool angle, i love it
I have to agre about the threaded type compressors, those things are crap. I know there is another type, a strap type that seems like it would be great, i saw it on a car television show, but never saw them for sale anywhere, could also be something to check out.
that is cool!
Rob, you are always on top of the tool angle, i love it
I have to agre about the threaded type compressors, those things are crap. I know there is another type, a strap type that seems like it would be great, i saw it on a car television show, but never saw them for sale anywhere, could also be something to check out.
#18
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I'm sure it's not as good as one of the $500+ Branick models, but the price is right. There's always used Branicks on the L.A. Craigslist. Too bad I already did my shocks.....
#19
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I don't know about where you guys are, but both my local parts stores Kragen and Autozone loan spring compressors out for *FREE*.
That's how I did several cars.
Of course, you are limited in what they offer, but they've worked for me in the past.
-Russell
That's how I did several cars.
Of course, you are limited in what they offer, but they've worked for me in the past.
-Russell
#20
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I guess I'm old-school. Don't use the impact gun on spring compressors. ALWAYS lube the threads. I have a set I made years ago with BF all-thread and some similar BF hooks for the coils. Cordless drill makes enough torque to squeeze a set of coils with two across from each other on the spring.
OTOH, the ebay listing is close enough to will-call. Just don't know where I'd store the thing the 1500 or so days between uses here.
OTOH, the ebay listing is close enough to will-call. Just don't know where I'd store the thing the 1500 or so days between uses here.
#21
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when you get the lower link pins out roll them on a flat surface if any are bent they need to be replaced, used ones will work, clean the pins and use anti seize on them use thick grease to hold the bevelled washers and pay attention to how the flat washer goes . the pins should be pulled out towards the rear, it also helpful if you remove the nut on the lower link of the swaybar, and swing it out of the way
#22
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I wish GB operated near here but then again we'd have all that other stuff.
Living in the sticks the compressors I used worked fine, didn't take my head off and the rebuilt shock/springs went together just fine............YMMV
Living in the sticks the compressors I used worked fine, didn't take my head off and the rebuilt shock/springs went together just fine............YMMV
#24
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#25
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as for helpful hints on the rear shocks
MAKE SURE YOU CORRECTLY ORIENT THE LOWER SHOCK MOUNT. It looks like its the same on both sides at a glance, but they are different, so pay attention to this
MAKE SURE YOU CORRECTLY ORIENT THE LOWER SHOCK MOUNT. It looks like its the same on both sides at a glance, but they are different, so pay attention to this