I started out to replace that same hose and ended up pulling the intake, replacing all hoses, gaskets, seals, knock sensors, etc., degreasing engine, cleaning idle stabilizer, R&R flappy and powder coating intake and cam covers. There's a lot of stuff under there. Take plenty of photos as you pull it apart so you can remember how it goes back together. Mighty satisfying - Click on '87S4 auto below.

 

Yup. I started doing a t-belt job and ended with this:

 

Seriously though.... WYAIT == Satan's Work

By the time you get the cam covers off for powder coating you are at the point were pulling the engine before you start all of this would have saved you time. And with the intake and cam covers off you should powder coat the coolant crossover and thermostat housing. Then the o-rings for the breather hose fittings in the cam covers. Then will all that stuff off, you might was well replace the plug wires, and plugs, coils, caps, rotors. Make sure to buy the plastic coil covers if you don't have them.

Heck - while the covers are off you should R&R the Hall Sensor - lest you suffer the fate I did a few months ago. By the time you are done with WYAIT your lump will look like this:

 

Ron,
I've BTDT with the intake removal and I'll be glad to help. You won't believe the mess you'll find under the intake and it's impossible to get completely clean without doing it. You'll need a gasket set from one of the big three or Zims and new seals and pintle caps for the injectors. You'll also have some WYAI issues, but it's worth it. BTW, you can also paint or powder coat the intake and cam covers if you want to WYAI

 

You guys are the best. Ernest, I'll take your help and maybe we can team up with Steve when he needs a hand. I want my engine to look like Daves. Gotta go to dinner. Be back soon.

Thanks Guys

 

You won't regret going in and replacing/repairing all those items either, most of the S4's idle/running issues are usually associated with whats under there. As Dave mentioned, powder coating is relatively inexpensive and when you stand back afterwards will make you feel like you accomplished so much more.

Chris

 

Here is another example of a finished intake !

Chris

 

That's the way a 928 engine bay should look!
One of these days - if we keep it up - all 928 engine bays will sport powder coated intakes
Yup. Ron, you will be pleased when you get everything back together.

When I got my '89 it ran like dog poo. Idle was erratic, yada, yada. After the Full Intake Monty (along with all-new ignition bits) I was stunned when I first turned it over. Ran like a car right out of the show room. Rock-sold idle. No hunting. No dying. No stumbling (ok - well, it stumbled a bit until I did the Hall sensor )

 

Ron,
I am a little late here, but the intake R&R was well worth the time, effort and $$$$. Dave C has a great writeup-easy to follow and very complete. If you have the budget, try to replace as much as possible. I replaced wot switch, idle control, knock sensors, all vacuum lines and fittings, breather hoses, rubber fuel line, gaskets, and had the injectors serviced/new seals.
The car runs great, and performs much better by the butt dyno. Good luck with the repair-the whole job is not that bad.

Jim R.

 

I agree with the guys who suggested replacing all the rubber bits under the intake. It's well worth it. I've had my intake out several times, and can get to the 3hr mark myself.. All the rubber bits are new, and the car runs great. Actually, the X-over will be coming out soon, as I replce the rad and X-over in a few days... I also suggest ordering all the bits you can, then just go to it. It's not that difficult. Just be very careful you don't drop anything, even dirt down the intake ports once the intake's off... Then you WILL HAVE STRESS... (I dropped an injector O-ring down there, and was lucky I could fish it out with a "grabber Thing tool that looks like a claw) I was thinking "Moron, now you have to pull the head." If that were the case, the I guess I would just break down and do a rebuild.... But, I got lucky...

Careful with those injector rings though.....

 

Gentlemen . . I'm going to do the full monte . . RELAX . . On the intake. I'm thinking TB & WP wiai. IT's gonna be due soon so wtf, make one clean sweep. I can take everything apart, remembering where everything goes is another story (sucks gettin old) or maybe this is what my brain needs. If against the TB & WP at this time let me know. I'm gonna call Jim @ 928 Int'l and order everything I need. Can someone give me a full list of what to get. I really appreciate all your help & suggestions.

Thank You

 

Jim will put the full package together for you if you tell him everything you're doing. I know I've BTDT on the full monte and so has Steve J. We can set it up as a weekend project on the tear down and one as the rebuild if that works for you. I, for one, am willing to commit to both weekends. I don't know of a local powder coater that I trust. The one who did a beautiful job on Steve's intake, almost cost me an engine, and who screwed up another intake and wrecked it, won't touch them any more. I know that there are some good ones in the area.

 

Ernest, should we tackle the belt & pump too? I can also ship the intake & covers to 928 motorsport and have them powder coated. Maybe they will be done in time. I'm going to shoot them an e-mail to see how long it will take them. To give you enough time to plan, how about the first weekend in Sept?
I will owe you big time. Sucks, i will be gone 8/27-28 & 29th but I can remove the intake & covers now and send them off. What really sucks is that I just got it back from the trans shop and I haven't even put a 100 miles on it yet.

 

Ron,
In order to remove the intake you have to remove the fuel lines with the injectors and you MUST have a clear record of the plumbing under the intake. The left cam cover is easy and the right one is a bitch. I recommend that we get together for the strip down before you leave. Call me at 817-265-9262 and we'll powwow.

 

Count me in - I'm game! The TB/WP could be a completely seperate project. Do the intake and cam cover project, put it together and make sure it runs OK. Then tackle the TB/WP. You're gonna have a nice reliable, mechanically sound shark that should give many thousands of miles of trouble-free driving pleasure.