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Old 08-03-2004, 11:05 PM
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JEC_31
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Exclamation Forum search still down - and shark won't start!

Please help: I am trying to finish the TB job I began in January on my early '86 US auto w/ 137K miles. Here's the moment of truth, when I try to start it...

Turn the key: a single WRM! groan of a motor trying to turn and it stops and there is this awful fast clicking sound from the ignition and the left side of the car and SH*T I quickly turned it off and sat there stunned. Then being an idiot, I did it again with the same results. Again, and I listen: the clicking has got to be a solenoid. Or a relay. Or I'm fubar.

New t-belt, rebuilt tensioner, new H2o pump, new idler bearings, new accessory belts, new power steering hoses, and everything that came off or I could get at got cleaned and polished (I tell people that's what took me so dang long...). I went by John Pirtle's write-up, with a few minor deviations for my model year such as not undoing the wiring harness, etc. Everything is back on and the tension was triple-checked 9 times. I had to charge up the battery, it had drained itself without even being hooked up to the car.

Did I leave the flywheel lock on? No, it's in a safe place and I can see my shiny clean cover plate under the car.

Did my starter expire from sitting too long? Or is my old battery not strong enough to turn a new t-belt?

Any other suggestions?
Old 08-03-2004, 11:18 PM
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SharkSkin
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I'm not suggesting that you attempt to turn the motor any more... but did it turn easily when you had everything back together?

If so, your battery may have given up the ghost. They do that when they sit discharged for any length of time.
Old 08-03-2004, 11:21 PM
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Garth S
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Does the engine turn over freely with a 27mm socket on the crank - well, relatively freely ( allowing for the compression)? If this is OK, first shot actually is a weak battery: The starter solenoid clicking is normally a sure sign of not enough amps to keep it engaged. Try a full charge, swap a battery, get out the jumper cables etc. Actually, the prudent way is to check the voltage with a multimeter, and cart the battery off to an auto parts store where they can test for CCA (cold cranking amps).
Old 08-03-2004, 11:25 PM
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JEC_31
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It wasn't especially easy, but it was smooth. I have no reference, this being the only motor I've ever turned by hand. I used a cheater bar on my socket wrench to speed things up as I spent several hours setting the tension. I turned that motor many, many times.
Old 08-03-2004, 11:29 PM
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Getting late and very tired. Tomorrow I swap in the 4-day old battery from the beater Honda - should've been my first step. Fingers crossed, lucky rabbit's foot handy, making offerings to the 928 gods...
Old 08-03-2004, 11:47 PM
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Greg86andahalf
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If you are SURE that the cam timing is correct, then I suggest that you remove the spark plugs, rotate the crank clockwise with a large socket wrench to TDC (firing) and tripple-check the cam timing 9 times. Remember, it takes two full rotations of the crank to make the cams turn one full rotation. IF you hear anything unusual or have a hard time turning the crank with the spark plugs out, stop.

When you are satisfied that the timing is correct, put the plugs back in and try and start it with a charged battery (see below)

I left my battery out of the car for about 5 months and it would not properly charge with a conventional chager. I had to use a low current "float" type charger to bring the battery back to a full charge. A float charger looks like a wall plug cube with aligator clips. It's designed to be left on a battery in storage like a lawn tractor battery to keep it topped off. Overnight on a float charger may get the battery back to normal. Always disconnect the battery from the car before charging it.

Good luck,
Greg
Old 08-04-2004, 12:12 AM
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JEC_31
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Cam timing. I never turned the crank until I had the new belt all the way on, how could I have gotten out of phase?

When installing the belt, I could not get the teeth to line up so that my cam gears were in the center of their windows. I had to set the Left (passenger) side cam to the inboard limit of it's window. In doing this I turned that cam "in" a tiny bit - and after that I had hours of fun turning the motor over setting the tension, with no interference.

Battery, please save me...



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