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Idle drop 89 S4 - Solved - sort of.

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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 12:36 PM
  #1  
Kevin in Atlanta's Avatar
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Default Idle drop 89 S4 - Solved - sort of.

Just got done with an engine out refresh.



Replaced everything that could be replaced per the customer.

Warm start idle is 675. After a few seconds drops to half that. Idle is steady. New idle air valve. Don't think it's the new air valve. But anything's possible.

Kevin

Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; Nov 23, 2025 at 05:47 PM. Reason: Figured it out
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 12:49 PM
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All of these Fresh , MAF and boot and new plastic junctions , TPS , LH rebuilt,
temp 2 sensor and connector,
and O2 sensor ?
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
All of these Fresh , MAF and boot and new plastic junctions , TPS , LH rebuilt,
temp 2 sensor and connector,
and O2 sensor ?
MAF No
Boot Yes
Plastic junctions Yes
LH rebuilt No
Temp II No
Temp II connector Repaired
TPS No

Kevin
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 03:42 PM
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Sprayed brake clean around the manifold. Idle did not change.

Kevin
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 05:04 PM
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Kevin:

Can you be more specific on what the warm idle RPM is? As I ready your post it sounds like you are saying the idle stabilizes at around 400RPM can you confirm this? If so this seems too low, as in not enough air is getting through the ISV route.

Can you confirm which brand ISV you have? There have been several documented instances that demonstrate the LOWE is not a suitable replacement. I have at least one data point myself.

The low idle does not sound like air leak ro throttle plate miss alsignment.

You could connect the SharkTuner ECU from your GTS on this car to aid in the diagnostics. It would help rule out an issue with the ECU. It would allow you to observe the functioning of the Temp II values, determine if the car is able to maintain proper AFR via the O2 adjust to help rule out fueling issues, and it would allow you to manipulate the ISV opening so these if that fixes the idle speed (if so then the ISV is not providing enough opening relative to the signal from the ECU. I suspect this is the case. The sharktuner would also allow you to validate the Temp sensor as well as the TPS.

Stan suggested that an aging MAF specification could be driving low idle is also a good on. You could try unplugging the MAF or swaping it out with a known good one is a simple enough test.

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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 05:12 PM
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Also, with the engine running warm, how much vacuum is being pulled at the front FPR ? This is a normal reading—between 17 and 22 inches of mercury. See interesting document on vacuum readings and engine trouble shooting.

When you did the top end refresh, did you put additional sealant on the manifold side caps? That is a place that can develop vacuum leaks espcially after powder coating. @Mrmerlin turned me onto that one. My focus on idle vacuum is around the vacuum feed to the FPR, do you have enough.


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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 05:32 PM
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Swapped LH no change
Disconnected the Temp II no change
Swapped Temp II no change - Ohm'd each side at about .667 - engine is warmed up.

Start the car. Idles @ 675. Count to 20 and the idle drops to 300~. Never varies from the 20 second count.

New IA valve - If it were the IAV this is not a failure mode I am familiar with.

TPS - I can hear the click off idle. Need to hook it up my Theo tool and look for faults, if any.

Why the 20 seconds?

Kevin

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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Benno
Also, with the engine running warm, how much vacuum is being pulled at the front FPR ? This is a normal reading—between 17 and 22 inches of mercury. See interesting document on vacuum readings and engine trouble shooting.

When you did the top end refresh, did you put additional sealant on the manifold side caps? That is a place that can develop vacuum leaks espcially after powder coating. @Mrmerlin turned me onto that one. My focus on idle vacuum is around the vacuum feed to the FPR, do you have enough.
Vacuum - Something else I can look at.

I always inspect the manifold mating surfaces after powder coating. My guys are pretty meticulous.

But, your mention does not fit the 20 second from idle to 300 RPM.

Thanks, Kevin
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 05:51 PM
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What I thought was an idle drop was in fact the car going into limp mode.

I left the sensors disconnected when I dropped the engine in. Weird to me that disconnected sensors can trigger the fault.

But, I have a bypass relay I may employ.
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 07:00 PM
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Connected and still getting green on the relay.
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 07:27 PM
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Riddle me this...

If the sensers were disconnected how can the relay show a green diode.

That brings me back to the thought that the relay has failed.

Kevin
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Old Nov 24, 2025 | 07:22 PM
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Try installing a bypass relay 92861517501 replacing the temp relay and see if things go to normal.. that would be an easy check.
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Old Nov 24, 2025 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by khalloudy
Try installing a bypass relay 92861517501 replacing the temp relay and see if things go to normal.. that would be an easy check.
Already on order.
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 07:42 AM
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Ignition bypass relay fixed the problem.
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