AO

I'll be there with you my brother. I'll be flushing the PSD on my GT tonight - more chances for air to get into the system. Joy!

Tom. M

You do know that the PSD is a totally self contained system..ie separate from the brake clutch system

It really is a good feelling to flush these systems..getting all that black gunk out of there. Brake systems are usually the most overlooked on all cars.....

Later,
Tom
89GT...no psd....

heinrich

Not much of a mechanic but can he SPELL!!

heinrich

Btw Erik, Tom has EXTENSIVE clutch experiences .... one of the only things he really understands .... I'd trust his advice on this.

hacker-pschorr

I'm taking all advice to this car - if that doesn't work, I'm taking the business end of a 20lb sledge hammer to it instead.

AO

Yeah, I know, but if you let the resevoir run down, you can get air into the system, and from what I hear, that's a real pain to get cleared out.

hacker-pschorr

Clutch master, slave, pressure line and blue hose will be here tomorrow. If this doesn't work......

Larry928GTS

You'll start the A/T conversion?

hacker-pschorr

That thought has been crossing my mind. I know someone locally with more than a few S4 Auto's lying around.

FlyingDog

I think Roger hijacked H-P's account.

hacker-pschorr

My mechanic has a 2-speed powerglide in his shed. We are 95% sure it will fit.

hacker-pschorr

Tonight’s update:

1. Pulled the slave out - takes a LOT of force to push the piston back in, even with the master rod off the clutch pedal. I had the reservoir cap off at the time; the fluid in the reservoir did go up just a tad when I pushed in the rod. After this, went for a test drive, no change. It was shifting like butter at first, eventually started to “stick”. Once home, it was shifting fine again, no grindage or unwanted grabbing. I always test this by trying reverse, no grind, clutch is disengaged.
2. I clamped off the rubber line between the master & slave, tried to push in the master. With a lot of force, the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. Checked the slave rod, clutch was disengaged. I even fired up the car, shifted fine (pedal was stuck to the floor, not enough force to push any fluid past the clamp).
3. Used a much larger clamp – tried the clutch pedal again. I ended up popping a leak in the rubber hose after using a ton of force on the clutch pedal. So I feel it’s safe to say, the seals in the master cylinder are fine.

So, now the only head scratching item is the slave being so hard to push in. It feels like the master is not fully going back. I did have the rod off the clutch pedal, so that should have allowed the master to push back a bit. After moving the master rod off the pedal, and pushing in the slave rod; the master rod still slid on the clutch pedal without having to push it in at all.

What could cause the seals in the clutch master to stick forward, blocking the blue hose input spot?

Oh yea, I ended up pulling the master rod out of the master cylinder – not sure if this is bad or not.

FlyingDog

Somebody suggested a weak spring in the master when I was having troubles with mine. I forgot to test my clutch when I fired the car up today.

hacker-pschorr

5 hours, 2 pizzas, 12 pack of beer later.........

Clutch master, slave, blue hose, rubber pressure hose replaced. I didn't cut any holes in the car or remove the brake booster. I with I would have. My power bleeder is attached, pumped upto 20psi, I'll see if there are any leaks in the morning. I attached fuel pressure hose clamps on the blue hose, so no issues there. I did pop the bleed valve on the slave, had a friend pump the clutch pedal a few times - bleed hose was in a can of clean brake fluid to avoid sucking air back in.

Tomorrow I start the bleeding process, yippie.

AO

What kind of pizza? What kind of beer?