Car will not start
07-16-2004, 03:27 AM
#16
Instructor
here's a good place to start reading abt oil pressure, should need arise:
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/zeng_low_oil_press.txt
Do a search - you will find many, many posts, I'm sure.
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/zeng_low_oil_press.txt
Do a search - you will find many, many posts, I'm sure.
07-21-2004, 07:07 PM
#17
Track Day
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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autochicago, you are right! The filter was clogged up, so we are going to clean it up right now. It took a lot of energy to take out the fuel line and lots of disassembly, like you said.
Whew! I hope that is the only problem
Whew! I hope that is the only problem
07-21-2004, 11:31 PM
#18
Instructor
good to hear
Sounds like you're on the right track. Sometimes we don't get so lucky. Cars that sit around, gas deteriorates, moisture collects in nooks and crannies in the fuel distributor, so on and so forth, and all of this sort of ends up being one big PITA. Since you said the car was running before, I reckon the fuel distributor, warmup regulator, and injectors are probably okay.
If you haven't put it all back together yet, don't be surprised if you have to run the pump/crank a bit before it'll start and run well. Disconnecting at that point on the fuel distributor, you are 1) draining all/most of the fuel away from the core metering components, and 2) introducing air that takes a while to purge.
BTW there's another filter screen at the warmup regulator (a.k.a. control pressure regulator) inlet that can collect crud. Follow the hard line from top center of the fuel distributor to warmup regulator. But, crud buildup here should be a little less common (and might be worrisome, if you do see it), because crud would have to travel through the fuel distributor all the way to that filter screen. More or less it probably keeps deterioration happening inside of the fuel distributor from getting into the warmup regulator.
Picture of location, attached (the compression fitting/hard line comes off first, then the adapter fitting under that removes to expose the filter screen). You can wash away any crud by spraying it out with carb cleaner. If you do decide to do it with the warmup regulator left in-place, put some rags around it so you don't leak fluids down into the timing belt area.
Remember to always use new copper sealing rings. It may seem like a finer point, but I've seen more than my fair share of leaks from reused copper seals. Small leaks --> leakdown of system pressure and harder starting.
Wishing you back to happy motoring soon.
If you haven't put it all back together yet, don't be surprised if you have to run the pump/crank a bit before it'll start and run well. Disconnecting at that point on the fuel distributor, you are 1) draining all/most of the fuel away from the core metering components, and 2) introducing air that takes a while to purge.
BTW there's another filter screen at the warmup regulator (a.k.a. control pressure regulator) inlet that can collect crud. Follow the hard line from top center of the fuel distributor to warmup regulator. But, crud buildup here should be a little less common (and might be worrisome, if you do see it), because crud would have to travel through the fuel distributor all the way to that filter screen. More or less it probably keeps deterioration happening inside of the fuel distributor from getting into the warmup regulator.
Picture of location, attached (the compression fitting/hard line comes off first, then the adapter fitting under that removes to expose the filter screen). You can wash away any crud by spraying it out with carb cleaner. If you do decide to do it with the warmup regulator left in-place, put some rags around it so you don't leak fluids down into the timing belt area.
Remember to always use new copper sealing rings. It may seem like a finer point, but I've seen more than my fair share of leaks from reused copper seals. Small leaks --> leakdown of system pressure and harder starting.
Wishing you back to happy motoring soon.
07-22-2004, 12:02 AM
#19
Instructor
Thio - sorry to back up on you to fuel pump stage of the repair, but...
I forgot one thing ... getting an idea for what caused the fuel pump to fail in the first place.
E.g., you have an inlet line to the pump. You have a pickup filter assembly in the tank. Some early cars (not sure about your '79 Euro) have an in-tank pre-pump. All leading up to the pump and, if deteriorating themselves, contributing to the end of the life of the fuel pump. Not to mention any crud collected in the fuel tank that makes it to the pump.
It's sort of chicken-and-egg, what causes what to fail, but given what you've described so far, if you have not serviced those items already, you may want to backtrack and take a good look at the above mentioned items.
I forgot one thing ... getting an idea for what caused the fuel pump to fail in the first place.
E.g., you have an inlet line to the pump. You have a pickup filter assembly in the tank. Some early cars (not sure about your '79 Euro) have an in-tank pre-pump. All leading up to the pump and, if deteriorating themselves, contributing to the end of the life of the fuel pump. Not to mention any crud collected in the fuel tank that makes it to the pump.
It's sort of chicken-and-egg, what causes what to fail, but given what you've described so far, if you have not serviced those items already, you may want to backtrack and take a good look at the above mentioned items.