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Old 07-10-2004 | 03:46 PM
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Default No Power to Fuse

I am getting no power to fuses #1,3,4,30-34. I have searched everything I can find but I can't seem to find anyone without power to fuses. By the way, I checked them with the engine off, key in, and in the different positions; the fuses are new. I have the wiring diagrams but am not 100% reading them yet. The pod is uninstalled along with the instrument cluster and the PCB. What should I check or do next?
Old 07-10-2004 | 03:56 PM
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Those are all related to lights, it seems... I'd say plug everything back in and see what you get.
Old 07-10-2004 | 06:39 PM
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criket876... Checking for volts
with a meter? Be sure you have
a good ground reference. The
upper end of the fuse is the 'Load';
the lower end is 'powered'. Do you
believe your ignition switch is OK?
Positions 1 & 2?

G'luck.
Old 07-10-2004 | 11:49 PM
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The ignition seems to work fine as the car starts and all other electronics work, I cleaned the ground points shown in the FSM.
Old 07-11-2004 | 02:03 AM
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If they worked before ...
I'd bet on the PCB board not being connected only other thing and that's a reach would be the LCU but if it was working and you haven't messed with it.... I don't think the LCU controls the turn signals but I could be wrong same for the Fog lights which is why I'm leaning toward the PCB.
Also you wouldn't have a complete circuit for the switch illumination or dash lights unless the PCB was connected. As to the turn signals -I haven't looked in the WSM yet but it would seem that either the 4 way flasher or turn signal lever/switch has to be engaged which would then energize the flasher which would then energize the blinking light on the dash at the same time the signal blinks, again the circuit might not be complete if the circuit goes thru the PCB to the indicator lights -same with brake pad lights, brake press. lights, tail lamp lights, brake lights, low water/overheat lights ....
Old 07-11-2004 | 11:56 AM
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Paul,

Just a couple areas you may want to check are 1) the connectors at the back of your ingition switch. These will pull out very easily (BTDT) and 2) the large power wire connections at the bottom center of the fuse panel.

Dennis
Old 07-11-2004 | 02:48 PM
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John--the turn signals didn't work prior to my removing the pod; however, since I took the pod out I replaced the flasher relay because that seemed to be the common thread. I didn't check to see whether I was getting power to the fuses prior to any of that. I thought the battery connected straight to the fuses, though. Shouldn't I be getting power to those fuses no matter what? I checked the ignition connectors, everything seemed to be fine. I also checked to see whether it made any difference to check for power with the T.S. switch on, and there was no effect. The brake lights are working. Perhaps if I posted some pictures on my website it would help?
Dennis--I checked the ignition switch and the power connections. They seem to be fine.
Old 07-11-2004 | 02:58 PM
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Do the hazard lights work?

FWIW: The flasher relay goes through the hazard light switch on its way to the turnsignals. If this switch is toast, the turnsignals will not blink. BTDT
Old 07-11-2004 | 03:31 PM
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criket876... the battery connects directly
("Terminal 30")to only fuses 14-23;

fuses 5-12 go 'hot' when ignition is
'on'; fuses 1-4, & 24-34 protect
lights or are not connected. (#13 =
fuel pump).

Are you sure ignition and light switches
are well connected and functional?

G'luck.
Old 07-12-2004 | 01:05 AM
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Well you have eliminated Dennis's suggestion, and if the turn signals flash either left or right then as a rule of thumb the 4 way's will work so that eliminates a flasher problem -which isn't your major problem anyhow- so if you are ready ... plug in the old pcb and see what happens.
You are in the midst of an electrical elimination problem, Oh Joy!
Hang in there, keep us posted...even if it was something stupid.
We all learn from the data supplied.
PS
Be careful with that PCB connector! If the connector loom is brittle or the plastic keepers break you may have problems -928 INTL used to sell the connector/jumper seperately if you run into trouble-.
Old 07-13-2004 | 10:23 PM
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Well, I plugged in the PCB and I'm now right where I started except that I think my my gas guage is functional now . The turnsignal light on the instrument panel still lights up, but no outside turnsignals. I then checked the hazard lights switch and found that I was receiving power from a black and red wire but no power is getting to the ground. I'm assuming this means that the switch is bad. I checked the power with the switch on and off, the engine on and off and the key in all positions. The light on the switch doesn't illuminate. I'm getting very little power to pin E4, nothing on E5 and E6. Is my hazard switch toast? By the way I can only find 3 numbers on the switch but on the current flow diagram every one is numbered, any help? Does anyone know how long it will take before "Rennlist member" appears when I post--I've already paid my dues and sent in an email asking the board manager or whatever. Thanks for all the replies so far.......
Old 07-13-2004 | 10:46 PM
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Your member designation is there now.

Have you considered spending about 4 hours going through your fuse panel?
Old 07-13-2004 | 10:54 PM
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Originally posted by criket876
The turnsignal light on the instrument panel still lights up, but no outside turnsignals. I then checked the hazard lights switch and found that I was receiving power from a black and red wire but no power is getting to the ground. I'm assuming this means that the switch is bad. I checked the power with the switch on and off, the engine on and off and the key in all positions.
If you think the hazard switch has failed, I think you can swap out the fog light switch and try that.

Be sure to disconnect your battery first. That is how I fried my hazard switch.
Old 07-13-2004 | 11:00 PM
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OK, thanks sharkskin. I'll try that
Old 07-13-2004 | 11:09 PM
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Tried to no avail....


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