Running rich when really hot (revisited)
07-31-2004, 08:46 PM
#47
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Gret news, Mark! I know what you mean by that last statement... My shark just taught me more than I ever wanted to know about early AC wiring & shark AC in general... 
07-31-2004, 09:06 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by MBMB
Yes. Steady at (well, vibrating around) 49. I must have seen 55 with the car shut down.
08-01-2004, 11:00 AM
#49
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Congratulations. I installed my new MAF and the problem was not fixed! #$@*&$@*#$ I'm going to throw my car into a lake.
The car runs fine when cold, but when it warms up, the car runs slobberingly rich, and surges at Idle. I've now replaced, coils, Temp II, wires, spark plugs, distributor, rotor, O2 sensor. I've tested the WOT. I tested my MAF and my LH in another car, and they ran fine in the other GT.
Q1 - I've tested the fuel pressure on the passenger side at it's around 55psi
Q2 - If I want to test another LH in my car, how do I tell which LHs are compatable?
Q3 - Does anyone have a spare GT brain I could borrow for my test?
Does Anyone have thoughts
The car runs fine when cold, but when it warms up, the car runs slobberingly rich, and surges at Idle. I've now replaced, coils, Temp II, wires, spark plugs, distributor, rotor, O2 sensor. I've tested the WOT. I tested my MAF and my LH in another car, and they ran fine in the other GT.
Q1 - I've tested the fuel pressure on the passenger side at it's around 55psi
Q2 - If I want to test another LH in my car, how do I tell which LHs are compatable?
Q3 - Does anyone have a spare GT brain I could borrow for my test?
Does Anyone have thoughts
08-01-2004, 11:22 AM
#50
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The first time you tested another MAF it ran well, but this time it does not? Consider a bad wiring connector at the MAF or temp2. I had a bad temp2 connector which abruptly caused the car to belch black smoke; I will eventually get another Bosch/AMP connector in there, but a couple of mini push-ons have been serving me well for the last year.
08-01-2004, 01:26 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by Mattman928
Congratulations. I installed my new MAF and ... I've tested the fuel pressure on the passenger side at it's around 55psi
when you swaped the MAS you pulled out the vacuum line from the underside of the thottlebody leading to your dampers and regulator getting no vacuum resulting in your 55psi (too high) pressure.
Unless that's an engine-off FP measurement.
08-01-2004, 02:55 PM
#53
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Mattman,
Q1 Fuel pressure should be 47psi at idle, 55psi with engine stopped, andf fuel pump bridged.
Q2 Any S4/GT/GTS LH ECU will work fine in your car. The fuel maps are near identical for your fault finding purposes. With an S4/GTS ECU, the idlle speed will be a little low for your GT cams, at 675rpm, rather than the 775rpm that is correct for the GT.
Q3 See 2) above.
When you tried your LH in another car, did you get the catr really hot ?
Have you tried a KTS "Hammer" on the car ?
Q1 Fuel pressure should be 47psi at idle, 55psi with engine stopped, andf fuel pump bridged.
Q2 Any S4/GT/GTS LH ECU will work fine in your car. The fuel maps are near identical for your fault finding purposes. With an S4/GTS ECU, the idlle speed will be a little low for your GT cams, at 675rpm, rather than the 775rpm that is correct for the GT.
Q3 See 2) above.
When you tried your LH in another car, did you get the catr really hot ?
Have you tried a KTS "Hammer" on the car ?
08-01-2004, 03:09 PM
#54
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Mattman -- It sounds like you're exactly where I was. I had replaced my MAF and thought the problem solved. I had tried my ECU in another car, and it had worked fine. I think you're on the right track, trying another brain before throwing it in the lake. If I had it all to do over, I'd swap brains first.
