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Notes:
1. Before removing the pump/strainer ensure the clamp is fitted as described below if possible or ins ome kind of fashion if this is not possible [mine had already slipped when trying to remove the pump even though it had been released a year earlier].
2. If the insert has slipped before fitting the clamp- no problem- fit and then tighten the clamp as described herein and my 4 years operational experience is that such will hold the insert enough to enable release of the kit. No need for more invasive procedures.
3. The insert in the tank is poorly retained by original design so easy for it to turn on aged tanks.
4. The insert does not seal fuel from leaking- the axial thrust pressure of the O-ring against the tank lip does that and the lip must be in good condition.
5. The intent of this mod is to simply secure the insert tighter within the boss by applying external compressive stress by means of the newly introduced outer clamp.
6. First step is to remove casting flashes on the tank boss such that shims can be made to sit on the boss. i made the shims from old jubilee clip stainless straps cut to encapsulate about 300 degrees of the circumference. I used three shims to get sufficient height on the jubilee clip to ensure that the clip sits on the shims and nowhere on the tank boss. If the jubilee clip underside touches the tank boss it will skew the clip when tightening.
7. This mod is best done with the tank out of the chassis but it can be done in-situ with care. The trickiest bit is easing away the plastic of the tank boss where the jubilee clip base is intended to sit.
8. When the kit is ready to install note the position of the insert and index mark to indicate depth and clock position- tighten and release the strainer/pump in progressive steps of half, three quarters and full torque releasing after each step and inspect to indicate no movement. Before the final step heat the boss sensibly with a heat gun and quickly tighten to full torque. Release, check and then final fit.
9 After filling with fuel immediately check for any signs of leakage and then after 1 week and then 1 month.
Initial problem Insert pushed back into place Clamp with shims inserted under clamp As completed with new in-tank strainer from Roger replacing in-tank pump
Thank you Fred. I’ve got about 1/2 tank of gas I’ve got to purge first.
Thank you Fred. I’ve got about 1/2 tank of gas I’ve got to purge first.
I undo the delivery hose in the passenger side rear arch after removing the cover and drain into my jerry can using the fuel pump to evacuate when the level is down to about 20 litres or multiple drains if I have somewhere [wife's car or my Cayenne turbo S] to dump the fuel in.
if your getting a backfire then you probably have the ignition wires crossed,
its pretty easy to do
It just started the backfire. It was idling poorly even when it warmed up prior to pulling the intake off and checking the hoses for cracks. After I put the intake back on, it now smoothes out at idle once it warms up. The throttle is even responsive but it backfires after giving it gas.
I checked the plugs earlier in this saga but only removed one at a time and replaced them immediately. Prior to hitting the pothole, it didn't backfire. I'll re-check the wires
It just started the backfire. It was idling poorly even when it warmed up prior to pulling the intake off and checking the hoses for cracks. After I put the intake back on, it now smoothes out at idle once it warms up. The throttle is even responsive but it backfires after giving it gas.
As I mentioned earlier, my car backfired and ran rough because a vacuum-plug fell off the throttle body, so it was due to a lean condition and backfired when I gave it gas.
You said you were going to run another smoke test, but never reported back if you did. You removed the intake, but doing that wouldn't reveal, for example, if your throttle plate bearings/seals were leaking.
Do you have access to an air/fuel meter so you can see how the engine is running?
Were you able to borrow/replace the following with known good ones?
As I mentioned earlier, my car backfired and ran rough because a vacuum-plug fell off the throttle body, so it was due to a lean condition and backfired when I gave it gas.
You said you were going to run another smoke test, but never reported back if you did. You removed the intake, but doing that wouldn't reveal, for example, if your throttle plate bearings/seals were leaking.
Do you have access to an air/fuel meter so you can see how the engine is running?
Were you able to borrow/replace the following with known good ones?
MAF
LH computer
EZK computer
I had all three checked and they tested good. (Roger’s guy in Texas). I didn’t see any smoke exiting when I repeated the smoke test. I don’t have an air/fuel meter.
09-22-2024 | 04:03 PM
