hacker-pschorr

In my 2002 VW, the hazard switch is also the turn signal relay. The URO part was the only option to have in time before I took the car on a road trip recently. It lasted about 400 miles.

In the same car, the inner door lock assembly is either $40 for aftermarket or $120+ for OEM. Most VW folks will buy the aftermarket for the passenger side and OEM for the drivers side. You'll go through 3-4 of the cheap ones to a single VW one. So sure, in the long run the money comes out the same and the hassle of pulling the door panel and replacing it isn't worth it.

ROG100

Hamburg Techic has a terrible rap. I will NOT sell parts made by Hamburg Technic.
OEM my ***.

tlebovic

I found this explanation on a BMW forum. (I added the emphasis. Lawyers got involved so OEM doesn't mean what we would think it should mean).

There's a big difference between OE, OEM, and aftermarket, and if you want to be a smart consumer, you should really learn what the differences are. It's not just wording.

OE = Original Equipment - exactly what is used on the assembly lines when your car was made. Parts were made by the exact same manufacturer, to BMW's specifications, and are usually stamped with the BMW logo. These parts must also meet all the BMW quality control specs for that part, same as any part that's accepted into the production process.

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer - parts are made by a manufacturer that supplies original parts to BMW. These parts do not have to pass the BMW quality control tests for that part, and do not have the BMW logo on them. Quality of these parts can vary greatly - they can range between the exact same part as the one that's put on the car on the production line (but minus the BMW logo...), to something that wasn't good enough to pass quality control, so the manufacturer just sells them as OEM. Another issue - the part may be made by a manufacturer that supplies parts to BMW, but that part may not be a part that particular manufacturer supplies. For example, ZKW may supply some of the OE lights to BMW. However, if they felt like it, they could manufacturer suspension components, and label them "OEM" - after all, they are an Original Equipment manufacturer, just not for suspension components.

Aftermarket - anything goes. Caveat Emptor.

Back in the 70's I had a job assembling circuit boards. For some customers I had to use the 'MIL-Spec' chips, for others the 'Regular' ones. Of course you couldn't tell the difference externally aside from what was stenciled on them but I think it's a parallel to the OE vs OEM debate on car parts. Kinda look the same but not the same after all.

-Tom
89 S4 177k miles

URO Support

Thanks for the feedback guys, we've forwarded the weeping-cords comments to our engineering department for investigation. Is this happening with single-length hoses, or only with hose assemblies that include a rubber tee, where one end of hose sections (and thus the cords) could be exposed to coolant inside the tee?

76FJ55

All the 928 hoses are single length hoses there are no TEE hosed on a 928.

Michael Benno

Wow! thanks for responding to this post. URO parts offer a great, affordable alternative so anything you can do yoi keep the quality on par with OEM is awesome. The problem is happening in single-length hoses. I purchased the URO upper (92810623808) and lURO ower radiator hoses (92810623909 in Feb 2022 and noticed they were weeping shortly after installation. I had previously purchased these same URO hoses in 2017 for another 928 and noticed no weeping on them, so maybe something changed between those runs. I have the weeping hoses still, and if you would like, I can send them back to you. Please let me know if you would like me to try another set; PM me, and we can coordinate. I am replacing all the coolant hoses in my car at the moment. URO would be a great option, but I am concerned about this weeping issue. Thanks again for your message.
URO-004313
URO-004314

URO Support

^ Thanks, PM sent!

hacker-pschorr

Unfortunately this has been an issue for quite some time. I first learned of this issue with aftermarket hoses back around 2006 / 2007. Back when we were selling quite a few Murf928 kits and they came with a new lower radiator hose. We sourced the hose from a local shop that specialized in 928's and most of their parts came from SSF or WordPac. At one point the cost of the hose dropped & the brand changed. It wasn't long after we started to get calls from customers of weeping lower hoses. From that point on I've only purchased Porsche hoses. Considering the original ones easily last 30+ years, the extra cost for another 30 years seems insignificant.
Post from 2016:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post13057928

Dr. Gonzo

Good Morning

A few weeks ago I installed the URO cooling fan clutch - I will let you know once it busts.

Cheers

PorKen

The URO Mercedes reservoir tank (1075000149) I installed a couple of years ago split yesterday. Or, more succinctly, I just noticed it yesterday as it only leaked under very hot pressure. The entire reservoir emptied without making any steam. Twice, since I first thought it must be a bad cap.

I was running a 120 Kpa cap (17.4 psi vs stock 100/14.5) but I don't think that should have effected it.

Although the Mercedes tank fits fine, it would be nice if URO made a copy of the actual 928 tank.



I used a soldering iron and chips from the edges of the mounting tabs to make a temporary(?) repair.

I also reinstalled the 100 Kpa cap.

Mrmerlin

FCP Euro guy, While your at it,
take a look at the green wire that you produce ( for the 1980 to 1984 USA cars),
the end that plugs into the distributor has an additional plastic spacer that must be removed before installing this on a 928,
after this the connector had to be forced into the distributor,
the wires were made in such a way that they would be slightly too long ,
and be forced to smash into each other inside the connector.
This would short them out and kill the signal to the computer.
I have found atleast 5 of these defective wires and now only buy Bosch.

FredR

Ken,
As you correctly surmise the pressure the tank operates at has nothing to do with the cap unless and until the system overheats and boils the coolant then it will control the pressure it starts to release at.

Under normal conditions the pressure the system operates at is controlled by the coolant level in the reservoir. In round terms the tank holds approx 2 litres, when filled to the seam the air space is 1 litre. The inventory of coolant in the system expands by approx 0.5 litres when at operating temperature so the air space halves and the pressure doubles from 15 psia to 30 psia. Thus if you want to give your repair an easier life drop the level in the tank such that when cold there is about 0.5 litres of coolant in it or a quarter full as it were.
In such case the pressure will increase from 15 psia to 20 psia or 5 psig. Of course you will not have the safety margin to the boiling point but you should not need it if all is well in your system.

Lawrencejuliano

I just installed one of these in my '79, I will now keep an eye on it! I think sooner than later I'll end up installing a 928 Motorsports aluminum tank, I just can't wrap my head around the $500 factory replacement.

hacker-pschorr

I wouldn't have an issue paying $500 for the correct part if it was the same quality as the original. Sadly the new Porsche units don't seem to be all that great either.

URO Support

Hi guys, our product development team has been watching this thread, but unfortunately there aren't enough 928's for expansion tank 928 106 256 03 to pencil out. We definitely appreciate hearing everyone's thoughts though; we'll update you if anything changes.

(P.S. Engineering is investigating the cracked 1075000149 tank, and will be heat/cool/pressure cycle testing units from current inventory.)