I’m at my wits end. I’ve spent hours trying to figure out what’s wrong. I thought I had everything lined up and researched everything for a front suspension rebuild and I’ve hit a brick wall. I promised myself I wasn’t going to ask for help…again. Ugh. I got the cross member reinstalled and steering rack mounted so I moved to the wheel wells. I first installed the PS LCA and quickly realized that I first should have first installed the strut and UCA, which I did. One thing I did notice after I initially installed the LCA was the it was completely parallel with the ground, which I thought was strange but didn’t pay any attention until later. So, I got the strut and UCA installed and somewhat tightened up, then moved to the LCA. I CANNOT figure out how to get this thing mounted. I first tried to mount it without the shock mount/shock… there was no way that would work. I then tried to slide the shock mount down through the LCA and the bolt through the bottom of the shock. That potentially could of allowed me to hold the rear-situated bushing up into place and install the the clamp but there would be no way for me to get the front bolts started, let alone straight and not cross threaded. It seems the front bushing mount should be “clocked”. I’ve seen pics of take-offs that were like this but never new/remanufactured LCAs.

Just as background in case you haven’t seen my “Goldie…” thread, I have new Bilsteins and “triple brown dot” springs. Pic below. (of note, the lower collars have been turned up to show threads) Are they assembled incorrectly?? I didn’t think I would have to “load” anything until after everything was installed. Please help.

 

The lower control arms should mount quite easily as that has been my experience with them.

The parts are identical both sides when new and logic says that the front mounts should be aligned such that the bolt holes are at 90 degrees to the axis of the arm. Given these units have been remanufactured suggest you check to ensure this is still the case- if not check with the supplier to see if this is an error in the revamp process.

If they are not aligned at 90 degrees I am wondering if that may explain your problem.

 

Put the strut in put the three bolts on the top to hold it in place

put the upper control arm in.

put the lower control arm in .install the lower shock bolt and sway link
get your floor Jack ,
jack the lower control arm into the position.

Use a long drift pin in the front to guide the bolt hole Into alignment
as you jack up on the control arm get one bolt started in The front and snug.
use some grease on the bolt so it goes into the hole easily
Install the second bolt

Jack the rubber saddle into the cross member and then install the clamp

snug the bolts and then back them off half a.

 

hey Stan, or anyone else, happen to have an guestimmate on where to set the bilsteins for an easy starting point. Also any help on properly setting of the alignment well enough to drive it to the alignment shop?

 

I thought I told you, from your picture wind the collar up so,
you should see the threads just peeking out from under the bottom edge of the adjuster collar for the front.

NOTE for the rear, make the bottom edge of the collar 5 turns above halfway on the threads.
NOTE on the rear ,leave the top piston nut loose by half a turn, so the top perch can spin,
tighten it after all adjustments are made.

 

Hi Stan. Sorry about that. You did tell me that. I didn’t think that would be close to the correct ride height after it was all said and done. Looking forward to finally getting this thing back on the ground.

 

NOTE if you measure the new tie rod assemblies to the old parts ,
and put the lower BJ adjuster eccentrics in close to the originals,
the front end should be close to being able to drive.

Remember the suspension will take a while to settle ,
you should drive atleast 50 miles before you get the alignment performed,
and make sure they dont lift the front end,
if they do take your car to a different alignment shop.

 

Yes Sir. Will do. I measured the steering rack ball joints when taking them off. Hopefully I took pics of the eccentrics.

 

Not a fun job but necessary when replacing those old aluminum suspension parts. (ask me how i know)- Definitely use a jack to power the parts into vertical positions when required.
Hang in there, you can do this!