85 Running Lights
Okay, I've started to work on some of the little things. The running lites on the passenger side are dead. Changed all the bulbs (Bulbs were blown)and checked the fuse (fuses are fine) and still nothing (Right side is working fine). I'm thinking there must be a central connection that I should check next (Assuming that they are on different circuits). Has anyone ran ito this problem before?? What's next??
I would say.... "BZzzzzt!" 
At the very least look for signs of corrosion or oxidation on the fuses. Wally P.'s "Remove & re-insert fuses 3 times & relays once" may get some results. I think that advice is better for the blade-type fuses than the fragile ceramic fuses. Either way corrosion will only spread so be on the lookout for it on your fuse panel. It takes 5 minutes to get the fuse panel out and face down in the footwell if you want to inspect the backside without disconnecting anything.
HTH

At the very least look for signs of corrosion or oxidation on the fuses. Wally P.'s "Remove & re-insert fuses 3 times & relays once" may get some results. I think that advice is better for the blade-type fuses than the fragile ceramic fuses. Either way corrosion will only spread so be on the lookout for it on your fuse panel. It takes 5 minutes to get the fuse panel out and face down in the footwell if you want to inspect the backside without disconnecting anything.
HTH
Thanks Dave,
I'll try that tonight, I've already done the 3 fuse trick and there is some corrosion. I'm trying to figure out if there is a series of connnectors that I can check between the fuse and each bulb (Or do the leads run straight to the bulb from the fuse panel?).
I'll try that tonight, I've already done the 3 fuse trick and there is some corrosion. I'm trying to figure out if there is a series of connnectors that I can check between the fuse and each bulb (Or do the leads run straight to the bulb from the fuse panel?).
Rich,
Perhaps the next thing to do is take a DVM, and confirm yea or nay to 12v present at the socket, then fuse, then at the relay output for that circuit. If the relay is not providing power, one of the many relays within the large case is a problem, or the relay is not being switched on from the pod switch. ( I haven't gone back to the wiring diag, so I'm assuming the lights referred to are controlled by the 'double' relay box at lower right in the fuse panel).
In any event, if you have the electrical diagrams, just work backwards along the current path until you find 12v.
Perhaps the next thing to do is take a DVM, and confirm yea or nay to 12v present at the socket, then fuse, then at the relay output for that circuit. If the relay is not providing power, one of the many relays within the large case is a problem, or the relay is not being switched on from the pod switch. ( I haven't gone back to the wiring diag, so I'm assuming the lights referred to are controlled by the 'double' relay box at lower right in the fuse panel).
In any event, if you have the electrical diagrams, just work backwards along the current path until you find 12v.
Garth,
I don't have 12v at the socket, and your right it is the "double relay". I will continue my search for voltage tonight, I just ran out of time tonight.
Thanks for the help, please let me know if you think of anything else.
I don't have 12v at the socket, and your right it is the "double relay". I will continue my search for voltage tonight, I just ran out of time tonight.
Thanks for the help, please let me know if you think of anything else.
Any feedback/further info resulting from previous suggestions on this thread? Have you looked at the back side of the fuse/relay panel? Have you checked for continuity between the relay switched output and the light socket? Have you bench-tested the relay?


