Ott Droplinks question.....UPDATED with the results!
#16
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WOW - WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I took the droplinks and put just 10 threads/full turns into the ends. Made about a 1.5" difference on the rears and an inch in the front. Everyone that knows me and my shark was commenting how good she looked out on course today...how FLAT she was coming hard onto the front straight...how good her BIG BUTT looked going thru the tight "S"- as that was the view most folks had - other than in their mirror!!! We had 15 or 16 cars total. ALL 911 variety (and 1 older audi quattro) and ME! First club driving function I can remember without at least a couple 944's!
The ONLY car I couldn't keep with and/or get to pass was a brand new (2 months old) C2 with, by far, the best driver in our PCA Chapter behind the wheel (Former SCCA Nat'l champ, Formula racer, etc. etc. etc.).
I was even able to close in on a C4 going thru the turns!!
I also had on some pretty good 'shoes'. Hoosier R3S03's in the rear (wow - get those puppies warmed up and you can almost drift race the 928!) 275/40. And at 95+ temp - it didn't take long to warm 'em! The fronts were a pair of slightly oversized (245/45) Goodyear Eagle ZR45's that I bought used at the tire store that mounts LOTS of my tires... (with about 75% treadwear left - $25 each mounted and balanced!!)
Day 2 is tomorrow - I just hope I can wipe the grin off of my face long enough to get some sleep tonite!!
The ONLY car I couldn't keep with and/or get to pass was a brand new (2 months old) C2 with, by far, the best driver in our PCA Chapter behind the wheel (Former SCCA Nat'l champ, Formula racer, etc. etc. etc.).
I was even able to close in on a C4 going thru the turns!!
I also had on some pretty good 'shoes'. Hoosier R3S03's in the rear (wow - get those puppies warmed up and you can almost drift race the 928!) 275/40. And at 95+ temp - it didn't take long to warm 'em! The fronts were a pair of slightly oversized (245/45) Goodyear Eagle ZR45's that I bought used at the tire store that mounts LOTS of my tires... (with about 75% treadwear left - $25 each mounted and balanced!!)
Day 2 is tomorrow - I just hope I can wipe the grin off of my face long enough to get some sleep tonite!!
#17
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Awesome, Mark! So, I'm curious how you set the droplinks with respect to firmness. I was under the impression that with the Ott droplinks you could have each swaybar set up stock, slightly firmer, or slightly looser. Which combination did you use? I'm not talking about the length of the threaded link, that shouldn't matter much.
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Originally posted by SharkSkin
Awesome, Mark! So, I'm curious how you set the droplinks with respect to firmness. I was under the impression that with the Ott droplinks you could have each swaybar set up stock, slightly firmer, or slightly looser. Which combination did you use? I'm not talking about the length of the threaded link, that shouldn't matter much.
Awesome, Mark! So, I'm curious how you set the droplinks with respect to firmness. I was under the impression that with the Ott droplinks you could have each swaybar set up stock, slightly firmer, or slightly looser. Which combination did you use? I'm not talking about the length of the threaded link, that shouldn't matter much.
#19
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I'm thinking that there's going to be a set of Ott droplinks in my future... sounds ideal for someone like me who's not looking to go all out, but simply wants to make an improvement. Do you notice much extra harshness on bumps that you hit with only one wheel?
I heard from a couple of people at SITP about their disappointment with suspension changes they had made, and the fact that the cars didn't have the same composure at speed. I'm going real slow with this, trying to gather information before I make a move. I'm thinking slightly firmer shocks should probably go on before the drop links. I'm hesitant to mess with the spring rate because on the bumpy roads around here, I've had a lot of success with past cars from simply adding/upgrading swaybars and shocks. I'm a strong believer in maintaining as much suspension compliance as possible since real roads aren't smooth like the tracks that many aftermarket suspension mods are designed for.
Er... back on topic... glad you had such a great first day, and I hope you have even more fun tomorrow!
I heard from a couple of people at SITP about their disappointment with suspension changes they had made, and the fact that the cars didn't have the same composure at speed. I'm going real slow with this, trying to gather information before I make a move. I'm thinking slightly firmer shocks should probably go on before the drop links. I'm hesitant to mess with the spring rate because on the bumpy roads around here, I've had a lot of success with past cars from simply adding/upgrading swaybars and shocks. I'm a strong believer in maintaining as much suspension compliance as possible since real roads aren't smooth like the tracks that many aftermarket suspension mods are designed for.
Er... back on topic... glad you had such a great first day, and I hope you have even more fun tomorrow!
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Mark,
Awesome news....glad you're having fun at the DE and that the Ott D-Ls are helping out. I may need to consider them as well...cheap investment.
Hell, I just spent $140 on the GTS front window inserts to quiet down wind noise...the drop-links are about half that, right? Jeez! Have fun tomorrow....
Best,
Tim
Awesome news....glad you're having fun at the DE and that the Ott D-Ls are helping out. I may need to consider them as well...cheap investment.
Hell, I just spent $140 on the GTS front window inserts to quiet down wind noise...the drop-links are about half that, right? Jeez! Have fun tomorrow....
Best,
Tim
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also had on some pretty good 'shoes'. Hoosier R3S03's in the rear (wow - get those puppies warmed up and you can almost drift race the 928!) 275/40. And at 95+ temp - it didn't take long to warm 'em! The fronts were a pair of slightly oversized (245/45) Goodyear Eagle ZR45's that I bought used at the tire store that mounts LOTS of my tires... (with about 75% treadwear left - $25 each mounted and balanced!!)
That's a pretty strange setup using two different type of tires. The car will start to understeer if/when you push it hard. The Hoosiers have so much more stick than the Goodyears (unless the Hoosiers were heat cycled to death).
Put on 4 hoosiers and run down that C2!
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Originally posted by John Veninger
Mark,
That's a pretty strange setup using two different type of tires. The car will start to understeer if/when you push it hard. The Hoosiers have so much more stick than the Goodyears (unless the Hoosiers were heat cycled to death).
Put on 4 hoosiers and run down that C2!
Mark,
That's a pretty strange setup using two different type of tires. The car will start to understeer if/when you push it hard. The Hoosiers have so much more stick than the Goodyears (unless the Hoosiers were heat cycled to death).
Put on 4 hoosiers and run down that C2!
For DE's - I run what I have sitting around! (I have run a similar setup before - found a deal on 4 barely used Hoosiers just before the last DE, and had the 2 rears left).
#23
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I think the Ott droplinks are about $150 or $180 a set from 928 specialists. They definitely help, but it doesn't seem like they're exactly bargain priced. I'm not complaining or anything, I think they help quite a bit.
I don't understand why people are cranking them down tighter or not; from what I understand, you make the first one the same length as the factory droplink, install it, then jimmy with the second one, adjusting it until it threads right up without any force--and this process eliminates any side to side preload. I have both the front and rears attached to the red bar ends closest to the sway bar mounts for maximum stiffness--although the PO had only the fronts, and the droplinks are bowed out--bent--from loads I assume came from extremely spirited driving.
I don't understand why people are cranking them down tighter or not; from what I understand, you make the first one the same length as the factory droplink, install it, then jimmy with the second one, adjusting it until it threads right up without any force--and this process eliminates any side to side preload. I have both the front and rears attached to the red bar ends closest to the sway bar mounts for maximum stiffness--although the PO had only the fronts, and the droplinks are bowed out--bent--from loads I assume came from extremely spirited driving.
#24
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Originally posted by bd0nalds0n
I don't understand why people are cranking them down tighter or not; from what I understand, you make the first one the same length as the factory droplink, install it, then jimmy with the second one, adjusting it until it threads right up without any force--and this process eliminates any side to side preload. I have both the front and rears attached to the red bar ends closest to the sway bar mounts for maximum stiffness--
I don't understand why people are cranking them down tighter or not; from what I understand, you make the first one the same length as the factory droplink, install it, then jimmy with the second one, adjusting it until it threads right up without any force--and this process eliminates any side to side preload. I have both the front and rears attached to the red bar ends closest to the sway bar mounts for maximum stiffness--