RJD2614

Hey folks-so I'm here in Ohio where they love to nuke the roads with salt in the winter. I have not driven my '87 manual 928 since maybe November or so. We had some brutally cold spells, not sure if this could contribute? The car has lived inside a car enclosure, so not subjected to "the elements", but the cold? Yes, unfortunately. I went to try to run the car today, and the clutch would not engage. It's currently in reverse, and I couldn't get it out. Car is also on a slight incline.

In the late summer or fall, I rebuilt the clutch MC, replaced the slave cylinder, and replaced the rubber clutch hose that is between the MC and SC. The reservoir has fluid(the clutch is fed from the same reservoir as the brake MC right?). The car drove fine a while, and I had no problem shifting. I'm a bit stumped as to start the diagnostic process. If I get the rear end in the air, I'm assuming I should be able to get the transmission in neutral? Unfortunately, due to where the car is currently living, the car enclosure is on a slight incline. I don't know if I could push it back into place. Would love any thoughts as to where to focus my diagnostic energy.

Mrmerlin

So the car is on a hill slight and stuck in gear go block the wheels
get your 27 deep socket and go turn the crank to unload the driveline
then you should be able to pop it into neutral

Make sure the E brake is on does it need to be adjusted?

what did you do to rebuild the MC

does the car have a stock tensioner


after you get the trans in neutral turn the engine by hand CW to TDC look through the belt cover vent to see the cam timing line up. Then you start the car

Petza914

Did you happen to wash the car before putting it away? Sounds like your friction discs may have rusted or bonded to the flywheel/intermediate plate. With the engine off, put the car in reverse if that's the direction it will need to go, release the parking brake, push in the clutch and try the starter. The force of the starter may break it loose after a couple turns but until it does, the car will move backwards as you're cranking.

RJD2614

Thanks for the advice y’all! The car has a big ol’ murf supercharger on it, so crank access was not happening in its current position. I chocked the front wheels, wedged em in good, and got the back end up with a floor jack just enough to get the tires off the ground. It popped into neutral just fine. Put it down, and ran through the gears, it engaged 2-5 fine but didn’t want to go into first very smoothly. I ran the car, and drove it around my parking lot. I could run it in all the gears, but there was a slight feeling, as if there were a detent going into first gear when it was cold. Once the car warmed up, everything felt normal. Not sure what this means, other than don’t leave the car on an incline in reverse for three months at a time lol.

Petza914

Maybe refresh the gear oil if it's been a while - that may help with the cold notchiness into first

Mrmerlin

NOTE virtually every 928 5 speed I have driven requires a warmup period ,
before the lower more worn gear trains will smoothly go into their respective positions.
That said try starting out in second gear..or first if second is not a good choice.

Here is a brain retrain.
NOTE to go into gear with a running engine and cold trans,
push the clutch in then put the trans in 4th or 5th.

This will stop the gears from spinning and use the higher gear syncros instead of the more used lower gears.
Then select the gear you want to use and drive off,
if you use first then shift to 3rd.
if you used 2nd then shift to 4th
NOTE Do NOT try to downshift with a cold trans ,
as this will usually result in extra wear being imparted to the gear trains.

RATHER if you need to stop press the clutch in and use the brakes to stop the car leave the trans in the selected gear.
Once the car comes to a stop.

Then put the trans in whatever gear you want .
NOTE you will see that the gear shift easily goes into what ever gear you have selected,
since the gears are not spinning.
BUT only after the car has come to a complete stop.

Yes it requires a lil bit of brain retrain,
but this works very well on the 928 trans no matter the year .

Then once the trans has come up to temp by say 10 miles of travel,
then you could use the gears as you like.
But remember using the procedure I outlined will decrease the wear the lower gear trains see and prolong the life of the transmission.
so you could use this technique all the time.

Engine Starting,
NOTE it is also advisable to put the trans into neutral,
Then with your foot off the clutch,
then start the engine.
This will stop the thrust bearing being pressed with the full force of the clutch spring,
before the engine has started to make oil pressure, this will reduce thrust bearing wear

That said I also suggest that you replace the flex line /hardline at the oil pan with the new updated aftermarket version,
this will remove the possibility of an airpocket and make bleeding the clutch system a breeze.

NOTE the S4 has a longer Slave cylinder and push rod,
if you put a early 86 unit on then you may not get full clutch release.


read this link for slave cylinder differences post 36

88 S4 5 speed LSD just dropped in my lap

RJD2614

appreciate it. that's helpful info, MrMerlin!

9two8

Have to give credit, this is great advice....

Ken
80 928S
5 Speed
UK

9two8

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Double posted 🙄