Engine Mount Replacement
My engine is currently out of the shark and I've began the task of replacing the engine mounts. I've read some of the tips on the nichols site and also understand that the steering rack can be dropped (without removing the tie rods) in order to access the bolts that fasten the mounts to the cross member. Here's my problem -- I cannot seem to get the rack to drop. More specifically, the u-joint that connects the steering gear shaft the the steering wheel shaft will not come off. At this point, it seems geometrically impossible and the rack will not drop as long as the gear is coupled to the steering shaft. Any thoughts, hints ,etc. would be much appreciated.
I took a flat-blade screwdriver and inserted it into the slot on the u-joint. Carefully tapping it in as far as it would go, I wiggled it back and forth in order to try to spread the joint so that I could tap it loose. It came off pretty quickly.
-Be advised that putting it back together was the hard part- I did my rack and mounts with the engine in the car- I used a long rod to slowly tap it back on. Big pain in the ***!
Good luck-
N!
-Be advised that putting it back together was the hard part- I did my rack and mounts with the engine in the car- I used a long rod to slowly tap it back on. Big pain in the ***!
Good luck-
N!
The U-joint on mine now has a convenient hole in the slot where I drive in a big self-tapping screw. That was the only way I could get the coupler off the shaft.
Once that is loose, if you release the PS fluid lines at the clamp on the engine bay wall the rack will be free to lower. Takes a bit of wiggling as the studs for the rack are virtical but the shaft is at an angle.
Let it hang but the tie rods and you'll be able to get the mounsts out. And not need an alignment.
Once that is loose, if you release the PS fluid lines at the clamp on the engine bay wall the rack will be free to lower. Takes a bit of wiggling as the studs for the rack are virtical but the shaft is at an angle.
Let it hang but the tie rods and you'll be able to get the mounsts out. And not need an alignment.
GLenL,
My strategy is to let it hang by the tie-rods. No issues with the pressure/return lines because I have removed them completely. My battle is with the u-joint. I have loosened the bottom/steering gear half of the joing and it will slide along the splines, but only so much until it binds -- wont slide back enough for the drivers side of the rack to lower enough to access the mount bolt. Passanger side will lower enough. The upper half/steering shaft side of the joint will have to slide up/toward the firewall in order to get the joint of the rack, but its frozen in place. Guess I'll break out the PB Blaster and try being patient for a change.
My strategy is to let it hang by the tie-rods. No issues with the pressure/return lines because I have removed them completely. My battle is with the u-joint. I have loosened the bottom/steering gear half of the joing and it will slide along the splines, but only so much until it binds -- wont slide back enough for the drivers side of the rack to lower enough to access the mount bolt. Passanger side will lower enough. The upper half/steering shaft side of the joint will have to slide up/toward the firewall in order to get the joint of the rack, but its frozen in place. Guess I'll break out the PB Blaster and try being patient for a change.
IIRC, you have to pull the bolt all the way out.
I belive there is a grove in the shaft that lines up with the bolt, and you'll only get a little play, untill the bolt is all the way out.
I belive there is a grove in the shaft that lines up with the bolt, and you'll only get a little play, untill the bolt is all the way out.


