I broke the knbo off of the door panel that operates the lock
06-08-2004, 09:18 PM
#1
I broke the knbo off of the door panel that operates the lock
I thought it would pull off (obviously not) because I couldn't find a screw in it. I have problems with finess sometimes. When I found the screw snapped off in the plastic it looked like it came from inside the panel? How do I get the other one off to remove the panel without destroying another lock ****. Also Is that something that I can replace without the whole lock assembly?
06-08-2004, 09:31 PM
#2
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Using the gentle approach, eh?
There is a small plastic cap that sits flush on the face of the rotary lock ****.
Pry it off (gently) using a thin blade.
Underneath you will see a small hex nut that must be removed - the **** will now pull off.
There is a small plastic cap that sits flush on the face of the rotary lock ****.
Pry it off (gently) using a thin blade.
Underneath you will see a small hex nut that must be removed - the **** will now pull off.
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06-09-2004, 07:12 PM
#9
Thats cool man ..I forgot they are included in a kit I want from here
http://www.jageng.com/interiorprogram.htm
http://www.jageng.com/interiorprogram.htm
06-09-2004, 07:39 PM
#10
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Jeff,
Your broke one of the cheapest things to replace on a 928. Don't feel to bad I think Tuk928 did too!
My story.
Replaced the front hood shocks and that just snap off with a quick pull. So I get to the rear hatch and try the same thing. Boy oh boy they aren't coming off.
I figure they rusted on and just need alittle hammer help. So I'm hammer them and they aren't coming off. I figure the hammer is too small and grab my pounding stakes in hammer and beat on them.
Finally I realize I'll probably take out a window before I get the shocks off. Then I see the little circlip holding them on. I take that out with a needle nose and the shocks came right off. Man did I feel stupid pounding on them with a small sledge hammer!
Your broke one of the cheapest things to replace on a 928. Don't feel to bad I think Tuk928 did too!
My story.
Replaced the front hood shocks and that just snap off with a quick pull. So I get to the rear hatch and try the same thing. Boy oh boy they aren't coming off.
I figure they rusted on and just need alittle hammer help. So I'm hammer them and they aren't coming off. I figure the hammer is too small and grab my pounding stakes in hammer and beat on them.
Finally I realize I'll probably take out a window before I get the shocks off. Then I see the little circlip holding them on. I take that out with a needle nose and the shocks came right off. Man did I feel stupid pounding on them with a small sledge hammer!
06-09-2004, 08:02 PM
#11
Hahahhaaha I just replaced mine too but I have come accustom to breaking things with "trying a little harder" and found them on the new ones before I tried taking the old ones off. Man those things make a world of difference new huh?? and CHEAP!
06-10-2004, 08:10 AM
#12
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My door handle is all sloppy, like it has a busted hinge, and the key won't turn the lock on the driver's side. I need to open it up soon... I'll be watching for that little **** trick f'sure.
06-10-2004, 09:25 AM
#14
Originally posted by tresamore
Just do what the dealer did that couldn't open the drivers door on my S4 before I bought it.
Just do what the dealer did that couldn't open the drivers door on my S4 before I bought it.
06-10-2004, 03:18 PM
#15
Well...
That **** repair may be a little more involved than you think...depends... .
If the nut was laying in the outer ****/cap assembly-erk!-, then more than likely the threaded stud extension which is 'turned' from the square rod -
lock rod ?- has snapped off.
I overtightened that little nut once and four days later I heard a whack sound and the **** landed in my lap -somehow?- sans washer.
I bought a used spare off of a fellow rennlister who sent what appears to be half of the doors innards still connected to the rod -on the back side-.
I haven't installed it yet but I think the rod is held on with a circlip.
I hope it is just the cap/**** but if not taking the door apart is fairly easy if you take your time and don't try to yank things off...
You have one or two screws at the door handle escutchion, 2-3 (8 or 10 mm) bolts in the map pockets, 1 or two at the forward AC pass thru -just pull the plastic piece out, and there may be a few more that appear when you pull the lower door panel.
Tresamore,
Stop it! Yer killin me!
Hopefully, the technician that did the delicate surgery on your sHARk also complains to his doctor of a painful, bleeding rectum after sex.
Could be worse...
Imagine his selection of tools for a locked sHARk and no spare key.
Should he use the 3lb ballpeen aka 'automatic window opener' or the precision 3 1/2 inch, drill mounted, metal hole saw aka 'daholeinone'.
That **** repair may be a little more involved than you think...depends... .
If the nut was laying in the outer ****/cap assembly-erk!-, then more than likely the threaded stud extension which is 'turned' from the square rod -
lock rod ?- has snapped off.
I overtightened that little nut once and four days later I heard a whack sound and the **** landed in my lap -somehow?- sans washer.
I bought a used spare off of a fellow rennlister who sent what appears to be half of the doors innards still connected to the rod -on the back side-.
I haven't installed it yet but I think the rod is held on with a circlip.
I hope it is just the cap/**** but if not taking the door apart is fairly easy if you take your time and don't try to yank things off...
You have one or two screws at the door handle escutchion, 2-3 (8 or 10 mm) bolts in the map pockets, 1 or two at the forward AC pass thru -just pull the plastic piece out, and there may be a few more that appear when you pull the lower door panel.
Tresamore,
Stop it! Yer killin me!
Hopefully, the technician that did the delicate surgery on your sHARk also complains to his doctor of a painful, bleeding rectum after sex.
Could be worse...
Imagine his selection of tools for a locked sHARk and no spare key.
Should he use the 3lb ballpeen aka 'automatic window opener' or the precision 3 1/2 inch, drill mounted, metal hole saw aka 'daholeinone'.