I saw that PorKen posted about his s wing
#16
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Originally posted by PorKen
I'm afraid of removing my hatch spoiler because of the Nylock nuts pulling the studs out.
Would it help to heat the Nylock nuts before trying to turn them?
I'm afraid of removing my hatch spoiler because of the Nylock nuts pulling the studs out.
Would it help to heat the Nylock nuts before trying to turn them?
Thats exavctly what hapened to mine. I wish I would have thought of heating them first. Damn...good thinkin
#17
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Originally posted by PorKen
I'm afraid of removing my hatch spoiler because of the Nylock nuts pulling the studs out.
Would it help to heat the Nylock nuts before trying to turn them?
I'm afraid of removing my hatch spoiler because of the Nylock nuts pulling the studs out.
Would it help to heat the Nylock nuts before trying to turn them?
#18
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JE928Sx4 - I haven't removed it yet.
If I do get it of successfully, I plan on replacing the Nylocks with SS serrated nuts.
If I do get it of successfully, I plan on replacing the Nylocks with SS serrated nuts.
#19
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Originally posted by PorKen
JE928Sx4 - I haven't removed it yet.
If I do get it of successfully, I plan on replacing the Nylocks with SS serrated nuts.
JE928Sx4 - I haven't removed it yet.
If I do get it of successfully, I plan on replacing the Nylocks with SS serrated nuts.
If it is like mine, the stock nylocks offered little resistance due to age. I did have a little rust on a few of the fasteners. As I said, I was prepared to use the method I outlined above to replace any that broke. Even if you lost one or two, you would still be OK without replacing as long as you sealed the holes in the hatch.
#20
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Originally posted by JE928Sx4
Oh, I was under the impression you had replaced them. DOH!!!
If it is like mine, the stock nylocks offered little resistance due to age. I did have a little rust on a few of the fasteners. As I said, I was prepared to use the method I outlined above to replace any that broke. Even if you lost one or two, you would still be OK without replacing as long as you sealed the holes in the hatch.
Oh, I was under the impression you had replaced them. DOH!!!
If it is like mine, the stock nylocks offered little resistance due to age. I did have a little rust on a few of the fasteners. As I said, I was prepared to use the method I outlined above to replace any that broke. Even if you lost one or two, you would still be OK without replacing as long as you sealed the holes in the hatch.
#21
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I saw an S at http://www.partsheaven.com/ when I was there picking something else up a few weeks ago. It looked like all 3 pieces of the spoiler were in great shape.
#22
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JE928Sx4 said: "you would still be OK without replacing as long as you sealed the holes in the hatch"
I'm going to remove my hatch spoiler soon, because it leaks, but also to look for more mounting options for my add-on concept.
I hope it goes back on!
I'm going to remove my hatch spoiler soon, because it leaks, but also to look for more mounting options for my add-on concept.
I hope it goes back on!
#23
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Originally posted by PorKen
JE928Sx4 said: "you would still be OK without replacing as long as you sealed the holes in the hatch"
I'm going to remove my hatch spoiler soon, because it leaks, but also to look for more mounting options for my add-on concept.
I hope it goes back on!
JE928Sx4 said: "you would still be OK without replacing as long as you sealed the holes in the hatch"
I'm going to remove my hatch spoiler soon, because it leaks, but also to look for more mounting options for my add-on concept.
I hope it goes back on!
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
#25
Three Wheelin'
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Where do you get JB Weld? Marine supply stores, like West Marine? It's an expoxy? Used on metal or plastic or anything? I've broken a couple plastic fastners off my console, I was thinking about globbing a bigger area of fiberglass, then trimming/flattening it with a dremel to approximate the original dimensions of the plastic fasterners...not unlike the door panel fix I've read about...
#26
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you can get it at pep boys or track auto...autozone...places like even homedepot.....its a fixall two part epoxy that works on about anything you can keep still for 12 hours
#27
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For this repair, maybe something like MarineTex would be better?
It is a 2-part epoxy putty stick - break off as much as you need, knead the inner and outer layers together, then form it to make the repair. It can be sanded, tapped and drilled after it cures, if necessary. I use it for various repairs on my boat.
Marine Tex INFO
It is a 2-part epoxy putty stick - break off as much as you need, knead the inner and outer layers together, then form it to make the repair. It can be sanded, tapped and drilled after it cures, if necessary. I use it for various repairs on my boat.
Marine Tex INFO
![](http://www.marinetex.com/images/cat%20mar%20tex%20putty%20stick.jpg)