Need photo
#1
Need photo
All -
Does anyone have any photos of the way these parts fit together? This is the connection linkage between the mixing control motor and the heater flaps on the drivers side of the 1983 MY (LHD - US Car). I believe the metal rod (54) has detached from its lever arm (behind 51). It looks to me like I had a bit of plastic left on the bottom of the metal pin assembly (31).
Not sure how part 51 comes off so I can see how to move forward. I have the control motor (29) and metal rod (54) out of the car on the bench.
Thanks all!
Does anyone have any photos of the way these parts fit together? This is the connection linkage between the mixing control motor and the heater flaps on the drivers side of the 1983 MY (LHD - US Car). I believe the metal rod (54) has detached from its lever arm (behind 51). It looks to me like I had a bit of plastic left on the bottom of the metal pin assembly (31).
Not sure how part 51 comes off so I can see how to move forward. I have the control motor (29) and metal rod (54) out of the car on the bench.
Thanks all!
#6
Thanks to you both! Yes that explains a lot - I hope to get the plastic lever off tomorrow and then need to figure out what to do to reattach the rod to it.
is this a common failure item as the plastic gets brittle with age?
might be a 3-d printer special.
thanks again
is this a common failure item as the plastic gets brittle with age?
might be a 3-d printer special.
thanks again
#7
Update
Thanks all for the replies. Finally got the actuating lever off and sure enough it somehow broke and allowed the rod to separate - since the arm pulling down means the heater flaps are open, I had no heat. That is one key to remember that control motor arm up closed the heater flaps and arm down opens them.
So I do think this is the perfect part for 3d printing, but that is beyond my skill set.
I decided a metal piece was probably best. I fabbed up a little extension I could sandwich in the with the existing plastic lever. Riveted it to the arm and used a bit of epoxy around the edges for support.
i believe based on the observed operation of the mechanism that it is important for the pin at the end of the operating arm to be able to rotate in the lever, so make sure it does not bind. There is also a notch cut in the lever to allow full travel of the rod, so that will have to be cut into whatever you reinforce with as well if you go this same direction. I also considered a bushing of sorts, but this seemed practical.
will post some pics this afternoon.
So I do think this is the perfect part for 3d printing, but that is beyond my skill set.
I decided a metal piece was probably best. I fabbed up a little extension I could sandwich in the with the existing plastic lever. Riveted it to the arm and used a bit of epoxy around the edges for support.
i believe based on the observed operation of the mechanism that it is important for the pin at the end of the operating arm to be able to rotate in the lever, so make sure it does not bind. There is also a notch cut in the lever to allow full travel of the rod, so that will have to be cut into whatever you reinforce with as well if you go this same direction. I also considered a bushing of sorts, but this seemed practical.
will post some pics this afternoon.
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#8
Here is the bracket as it came out of the car. Obviously broken at the bottom.
It actually does have a part number but it did not come up as valid - may have been a part of an assembly? 928 573 511 02 I believe.
I used a little scrap of metal sheet. Drilled a hole for the pin and a second one for a rivet. Used the grinder and dremel to shape the end a bit.
After the “fix”.
Note the little angle cut into the metal piece. This is necessary for the lever to meet its full range of motion. It is a pretty tight rotation in there.
Final pic. Mounted back up and seems to be working well. I have heat woohoo!
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9two8 (12-04-2023)