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Throttle body is back on and connected all vacuum lines and original Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV). The car turns over and starts, then immediately shuts down. I tried it 6 times and same results. If anyone has any thoughts, would appreciate it. I have seen this symptom in the forum, just need to search through it.I know that the MAF works because I started the car with 2 working Brains before removing the throttle body to inspect it. Checked MAF connection to make sure it is seated correctly and it is. I don't even know if the high idle is resolved because it wont start.
Any guidance you can suggest to get the car starting and running is appreciated. The only thing else I can think of is the throttle body idle screw (the metal one from the factory that positions the butterfly) may have been moved when the TB was off the car (my doing) Thought I matched the mark.
It did run as you can see from Post 30, just at high idle. What a long road, this is just frustrating.
Thanks for your help.
Performed smoke test and the center intake rubber bushing was folded and had a large leak. Fixed the fold on to the metal and it started after a few tries. Took it for a drive around the neighborhood and it still has a high idle around 1100. I will do another smoke test and see if there are still more leaks. Thanks all for the help, especially Rich from Electronik Repair for the support. Helped me to keep my patience.
Now that you have a major vacuum leak addressed, does the idle adjustment screw work? Might be able to bring it down within range and have it stay there now.
Now that you have a major vacuum leak addressed, does the idle adjustment screw work? Might be able to bring it down within range and have it stay there now.
Thanks @Petza914 yes It did bring down the idle to around 1100, a bit more manageable. Thanks, I will do another smoke test now that I can start it and see if there are other leaks. Finally some progress.
Reinstalled the throttle body with a fresh rubber gasket.
Reinstalled the MAF with a fresh rubber gasket.
Kept my original ICV.
Installed 2 new rubber boots on the throttle body (going to the intakes).
I am at 750 RPM after a 10 minute run. So far so good, looks like the 16 month wait is almost complete.
Working on some other new issues that crept up while the car was in temporary storage; namely namely the center console controls (both windows, moon roof and rear wiper do not work, and battery discharging). I will search the forum on the new issues, Checked all fuses and tried to remove VI Relay. That suckers in there. There must be some tool to remove it.
But let's first say a great big thank you to everyone in this forum community. You had incredible insights and encouragement during the very difficult times. I am thoroughly humbled and appreciative. I hope that I too can continue to contribute to those running into the same problem as me, or anything I can help with. What a great group of people.
Advice: If you do a top end refresh, do a complete top end refresh as possible:
New gaskets everywhere including the rubbers in the intakes, throttle body, MAF, intakes if needed.
If you decide to remove and paint / refinish the intakes, ensure that the mating surfaces are smooth and straight. If the metal gaskets are in good shape, if you re-use them, make absolutely sure there are no pits or imperfections.
Replace all fuel lines
Refresh the fuel injector seals and caps. Clean the injectors with a machine or homemade tool.
Replace the Crankcase Position Sensor and the front sensor cable. The plastics become brittle and will crack. Do it now instead of later.
Replace the three (3) bolts that hold down the lower part the throttle body attaches to (looks like a viking horn). Have a Dremmel cutting tool to add a grove to remove the bolts with a screw driver
Other tidbits:
If the car starts and immediately shuts down, there is most likely a vacuum leak.
Use a smoke machine, it will help you spot those air leaks
MOST Importantly, Leverage this great community. Research the problem by searching through the threads. Many of the issues are already covered. Know the problem before asking for support. It will help you in the long run.
Fantastic work! I’ve been following along with you all this time and piping in when I could.
Engines are just fancy and complex air pumps. Eventually you’ll get ‘em running right by being thorough and methodical. We’re entering a dark period of parts supply, it seems, so it’s even harder when you can’t guarantee the just-installed new-in-box part is working right.
Fantastic work! I’ve been following along with you all this time and piping in when I could.
Engines are just fancy and complex air pumps. Eventually you’ll get ‘em running right by being thorough and methodical. We’re entering a dark period of parts supply, it seems, so it’s even harder when you can’t guarantee the just-installed new-in-box part is working right.
Totally agree. Bosch vs. replacement...Thanks @hwyengr
04-15-2024, 08:19 AM
. I am thoroughly humbled and appreciative. I hope that I too can continue to contribute to those running into the same problem as me, or anything I can help with. What a great group of people.
