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Ash,
Since you had issues occur before with the fuse holders I'd say its most likely still the cause here. Measuring 12v on the top and bottom blades of the fuse (in the dimples) doesn't mean for certain that the bottom blade is actually connecting to anything in the fuse holder. So an experiment here would be to test the pin out of the CE panel that connects to the bottom of these fuses. For fuse #28 its output goes out on CE Pin Q21 and Fuse #29 output goes out on CE Pin Q22 If this gives a different result the the bottom dimple of the associated fuse - your fuse holders are damaged enough they don't conduct.
Alan
Alan,
so what you are saying is to remove the panel and test the pins that plug into those two fuse spots?
so what you are saying is to remove the panel and test the pins that plug into those two fuse spots?
No - while the panel is in place just probe those two bottom connections with a voltmeter probe. It may be more difficult on these than most because the connecting wires are large - but I think still doable.
No - while the panel is in place just probe those two bottom connections with a voltmeter probe. It may be more difficult on these than most because the connecting wires are large - but I think still doable.
No - while the panel is in place just probe those two bottom connections with a voltmeter probe. It may be more difficult on these than most because the connecting wires are large - but I think still doable.
Alan,
Alan
Alan,
I probed the spots again without the fuses in place. I did not get any voltage from the bottom spots. I got 12-13 from the tops of both spots. When I put the fuses back in and probed them, I got 12-13 from the top & bottom of #28 but nothing from the bottom of 29.
You need to probe those CE plug pins with the fuses in place. The CE pins should be the same as the bottom (output) of the relevant fuse - if they are not then you have a problem in the fuse holder. If you removed and replaced the fuse you will likely have different behavior for a while - but it seems the fuse connections to the fuse holder are very poor - So I'd say it is indeed highly likely you need to replace that fuse holder block.
Note: if the top of the fuse and bottom of the fuse measured on the fuse are not the same then the fuse must be blown (OR you didn't make a good connection OR between the measurements the fuse lost contact in the top connection as you were pressing on it).
You need to probe those CE plug pins with the fuses in place. The CE pins should be the same as the bottom (output) of the relevant fuse - if they are not then you have a problem in the fuse holder. If you removed and replaced the fuse you will likely have different behavior for a while - but it seems the fuse connections to the fuse holder are very poor - So I'd say it is indeed highly likely you need to replace that fuse holder block.
Note: if the top of the fuse and bottom of the fuse measured on the fuse are not the same then the fuse must be blown (OR you didn't make a good connection OR between the measurements the fuse lost contact in the top connection as you were pressing on it).
Alan
Thanks Alan. I placed an order with 928 international. Should have replacement next week.
This step is very important to verify. When you get it check the connectivity for your year - on the input side: (top - away from the fuse numbers) #26 & #27 should be connected together inside the fuse block. #28, #29 & #30 should not be connected to anything.
This step is very important to verify. When you get it check the connectivity for your year - on the input side: (top - away from the fuse numbers) #26 & #27 should be shorted together inside the fuse block. #28, #29 & #30 should not be connected to anything.
Alan
When it arrives I’ll post a pic to ensure I’m doing what you recommend.
You won't be able to see these details - they are configured inside the fuse blocks - the same numbered fuse block has different configurations by usage year - there are internal connecting bars between input pins - any adjacent pins can be shorted to neighbors on either side. The part number of the fuse-block does not tell you the internal configuration.
You will need to test for this electrically (or open the fuse blocks to look - which has some risk of damage) Here is an example where all input pins are connected together This is the schematic for your year - this indicated input connection is made inside the fuse holder
You won't be able to see these details - they are configured inside the fuse blocks - the same numbered fuse block has different configurations by usage year - there are internal connecting bars between input pins - any adjacent pins can be shorted to neighbors on either side. The part number of the fuse-block does not tell you the internal configuration.
You will need to test for this electrically (or open the fuse blocks to look - which has some risk of damage) Here is an example where all input pins are connected together This is the schematic for your year - this indicated input connection is made inside the fuse holder
Alan
The fuse panel is from an 87-88. I think the only way I could tell would be to open it up. I call myself a jack of all trades but I know my limits and I understand nothing about electrical work. I’ll get my brother to help me understand your suggestions. He’s a bio engineer
They come out the front, the retaining tabs need to be released from the back with dual simple flat tools (spatula like) - or from the front with dual flat hooked tools (you'd probably have to make them). See the photos to see what you are releasing. Either way the panel need to be out of the car to have enough room to remove the wires from the fuse block from the back - take good pictures & mark the wires (as they are ~all grey).
They come out the front, the retaining tabs need to be released from the back with dual simple flat tools (spatula like) - or from the front with dual flat hooked tools (you'd probably have to make them). See the photos to see what you are releasing. Either way the panel need to be out of the car to have enough room to remove the wires from the fuse block from the back - take good pictures & mark the wires (as they are ~all grey).
Alan
Thanks Alan. I’ve gotten the block out and was able to get the wires back as they were removed. I’m still having issues with only 1 fan running. When I switch the fan connectors, the one that wasn’t spinning will spin.
someone above mentioned a fan component by the passenger seat. What exactly is it and do you think it may have something to do with the fans not working? That’s the only thing I haven’t checked/replaced.
Don't make any assumptions about the fuses & power supply being good - test the fuse in the same manner as before - do you have power on the bottom indent on both fan fuses? especially while the fans are trying to run.
Don't make any assumptions about the fuses & power supply being good - test the fuse in the same manner as before - do you have power on the bottom indent on both fan fuses? especially while the fans are trying to run.
01-10-2024, 04:04 PM
