MAF Boot burned to the ground
02-26-2024, 04:12 PM
#46
Rennlist Member
The male plugs on the CPS, knock sensors and the Hall effect sensor fall apart for some weird reason - the plugs can be replaced quite easily if the sensor is viable.
When this sensor fails it does not harm whatsoever but it retards ignition timing 6 degrees across the board. The motor will lose a bit of oompth but nothing more than that - no popping or bangs in the exhaust and for sure no fires or danger.
When this sensor fails it does not harm whatsoever but it retards ignition timing 6 degrees across the board. The motor will lose a bit of oompth but nothing more than that - no popping or bangs in the exhaust and for sure no fires or danger.
02-26-2024, 05:09 PM
#47
Team Owner
Fred I dont recommend putting new connector ends on any of these sensors,
the knock sensors,
the crank position sensor
the Hall sensor .
The crumbling connector is your warning that the part is ready to be replaced .
NOTE just because you can replace the connectors doesnt mean you should,
the rest of the compromised part could rear its head at any time.
NOTE most knock sensors will also have splitting wire insulation that reveals the shielding cover under the insulation.
Usually the knock sensors have also been soaking in puddles of oil from the leaking oil fill tube seal.
NOTE only use Bosch parts for these sensors.
the knock sensors,
the crank position sensor
the Hall sensor .
The crumbling connector is your warning that the part is ready to be replaced .
NOTE just because you can replace the connectors doesnt mean you should,
the rest of the compromised part could rear its head at any time.
NOTE most knock sensors will also have splitting wire insulation that reveals the shielding cover under the insulation.
Usually the knock sensors have also been soaking in puddles of oil from the leaking oil fill tube seal.
NOTE only use Bosch parts for these sensors.
02-26-2024, 05:10 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, that's consistent with what I read in the shop manual. The signal I got on the oscilloscope wasn't just "bad" though. It was intermittent. Very roughly every 5-30 seconds or so, the signal would go from reasonably clean to rough and weak for a couple of revolutions and then come back again.
It's gotta be that broken corroded connector vibrating and making/breaking the signal. The ICM definitely is not just retarding timing 6 degrees and staying there- I think the signal is intermittent in just the perfect way to make the ignition timing go all over the place. There might be more going on here, but I can't reliably test it until I get this cam sensor swapped out.
FWIW, I replaced the crank sensor a year ago. It's still showing a really excellent signal at the LH connector.
It's gotta be that broken corroded connector vibrating and making/breaking the signal. The ICM definitely is not just retarding timing 6 degrees and staying there- I think the signal is intermittent in just the perfect way to make the ignition timing go all over the place. There might be more going on here, but I can't reliably test it until I get this cam sensor swapped out.
FWIW, I replaced the crank sensor a year ago. It's still showing a really excellent signal at the LH connector.
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Mrmerlin (02-26-2024)
02-26-2024, 06:32 PM
#49
Rennlist Member
Fred I dont recommend putting new connector ends on any of these sensors,
the knock sensors,
the crank position sensor
the Hall sensor .
The crumbling connector is your warning that the part is ready to be replaced .
NOTE just because you can replace the connectors doesnt mean you should,
the rest of the compromised part could rear its head at any time.
NOTE most knock sensors will also have splitting wire insulation that reveals the shielding cover under the insulation.
Usually the knock sensors have also been soaking in puddles of oil from the leaking oil fill tube seal.
NOTE only use Bosch parts for these sensors.
the knock sensors,
the crank position sensor
the Hall sensor .
The crumbling connector is your warning that the part is ready to be replaced .
NOTE just because you can replace the connectors doesnt mean you should,
the rest of the compromised part could rear its head at any time.
NOTE most knock sensors will also have splitting wire insulation that reveals the shielding cover under the insulation.
Usually the knock sensors have also been soaking in puddles of oil from the leaking oil fill tube seal.
NOTE only use Bosch parts for these sensors.
You as a professional practitioner cannot afford the luxury of making such decisions - I can. I assess the viability of the piece I am working with taking into account material condition and whether the thing is working or not. I have never seen a female junior powertimer connector fail but have lost count of the number of male connectors that I have seen fall to pieces and the engineer in me would like to find out why this is. Of the [dozen?] items I have chosen to fix for friends or myself not one has failed but there is no escaping the fact that such could happen. When they are in truly poor condition it is usually rather obvious thus why I stated about the sensor being viable.
A couple of years ago when I was rebuilding my engine management harness I found that not only was the Hall sensor male connector shot, it had clearly been doctored by someone before I acquired it in 2005! The connectors were pristine as were the cores so I simply covered them with one of those heat shrink sleeves with glue in them. I have the luxury of having ST2 to tell me whether the sensor is working or not and it was. Obviously you cannot afford the luxury of being able to do things like that.
I possibly see more than my fair share of these things due to our hot climate but then maybe I do not see degeneration on the rest of the sensor thus why such can be viable. If someone is paying someone a fair number of bucks to remove their inlet manifold they obviously do not want to be doing this task every 5 minutes.
Most of what I do has been successful but I have had a one or two failures that did not go as hoped for. A couple of years ago I pulled the inlet manifold when i was revamping the engine management harness in-situ. To my surprise I found the actuator on the flappy had taken a dump- it had not been on the engine for long so was not looking for that. i made a decision to try and modify the actuator from a spare heater valve given I do not use the heater. It was a tight fit but I managed to get the thing to work. The problem i had was mating the actuator conrod to the flappy conrod. I used a high tech two pack epoxy- i figured i might get away without pinning it- I got that one wrong! New original item on the way.
C'est la vie!