Intermittent fan operation
#47
The events as described tend to eliminate the radiator temp sensor given you stated that the fans were not running even with the ac switched on. The fan controller can switch the fans off if the ac is not running but with the ac switched on the fans run at something like 66% of speed and ramp up as the pressure analogue signal from the ac sender increases.
#48
the next thing you can do if the fans dont come on,
is unplug the connector from the lower left front of the radiator ,
with key on the fans should run continuously, does this happen?
Have you done a CE panel refresh,
and put D100 on all of the connections and fuses and ground points?
is unplug the connector from the lower left front of the radiator ,
with key on the fans should run continuously, does this happen?
Have you done a CE panel refresh,
and put D100 on all of the connections and fuses and ground points?
#49
Thanks Mrmerlin. I will pull the plug on the temp sensor on the bottom left of the radiator and try the key test. I did pull every fuse and relay and checked for fit and corrosion but did not D100. FYI. Pulling all the fuses and relays resulted in a pass side air bag malfunction light but that is an issue for another day
#53
D5 is a cleaner it will leave a small amount on the contacts, the D 100 is full strength contact enhancer,
it will restore connectivity to corroded connections it can take about 24 hours for full effect.
it will restore connectivity to corroded connections it can take about 24 hours for full effect.
#55
MrMerlin. Are the fans suppose to come on with just the ignition switch on and the wires unplugged? I’m still trying to get my hands down between the radiator and grill to get the plug off . I really do not want to remove the chin spoiler to get at it
#56
your gonna pull that AMP plug off the sensor,
then turn the key to run the fans should come on.
then plug the connector back onto the sensor,
then the fans should turn off.
NOTE reconnect the AMP connector with the key off so you dont spike anything,
then turn on the key to see if the fans have stopped
then turn the key to run the fans should come on.
then plug the connector back onto the sensor,
then the fans should turn off.
NOTE reconnect the AMP connector with the key off so you dont spike anything,
then turn on the key to see if the fans have stopped
#57
Unplugged, both fans are really cooking. When pluged back in they stop. I noticed that the test with the ignition blower and ac on, it seems the fans run on a bit slower speed although this test only works with the motor cmletely cold
#58
When the ac button is the driver the logic says "I am going to drive both fans no matter the engine temperature" and does so at about 2/3rds of max speed. Th logic then looks at the pressure signal value coming from the ac pressure sender and ramps up the speed as the condenser pressure increases. The logic simulataneously looks at the temperature of the coolant leaving the radiator and if that demands a higher fan speed that will override the ac demand. If when the motor is shut down the switch on the inlet manifold flips the logic runs the motors at the 2/3rds speed until the inlet tract cools off a bit and the switch flips back.
Presumably your tests were carried out with the hood closed?
#59
Mistake 1. The hood was open. I didn’t even think of the hood switch. Also I ordered a used controller but it seems this test just proved the current controller is good. Do you agree? Both tests just completed with hood closed. Same result
#60
I suspect the protection is provided because the fans can switch on when the engine is shutdown and thus is not present as and when the ignition is switched on so maybe that explains what you experienced.