borland

I see by your fuel line union, you don't have a set of metric Flare wrenches.

Remove the intake and coolant adapter. Then you'll have plenty of room to work on the stud. But I'd guess your looking at replacing the head by now.

Gregg K

Assuming there's absolutely no way to grab onto the easyout-

Since the easyout is brittle, it can be broken down further by using a ***** punch. I've broken many taps. I've always been able to tweak them until they loosen up. I don't know if the easyout would be so kind. They usually get a pretty good wedge in. Give it a try. You can hardly go wrong. Then if it's busted up, you can use needlenose or a pick to get the pieces out.

Yuck. Not fun.

T_MaX

I say pull the adapter as well.

With a small, but high quality steel punch and a hammer, you should be able to chip the EZ-Out, out (little by little).

I would use a shop vac to suck up the shards as you chip away.

Brendan

I have since pulled the fuel rail and adapter. That leaves me plenty of room. I just put the intake back on after refinishing....Im not pulling it again anytime soon if I can help it.
All good ideas...my last route will be to pull the head. I will try the punch routine though, that sounds promising. Diamond bit was pretty useless with the dremmel. I have since pulled the fuel rail and adapter. That leaves me plenty of room. I just put the intake back on after refinishing....Im not pulling it again anytime soon if I can help it.


<<I see by your fuel line union, you don't have a set of metric Flare wrenches>>
DOH! My first foray into pulling the intake 2 years ago. Learn on the fly.

Gregg K

I've got a warning.
Giving advice over a bulletin board can be a mistake.

If I were working on this problem, I'd size up the situation before using a method. If the easyout is a certain size, I might not try the punch idea. And there are other factors, like what is supporting the entire area. Is it a massive block of aluminum, or just a web of casting. You could get yourself into a worse situation. And another thing to think about is how far the easy out is. If it's way in there, it may need to be fractured in several takes. I feel blind. I guess I'm saying that before you start pounding away, to give it some real thought.
If this were an absolutely critical part, and I didn't want to do any damage at all, I would edm the part out. That is, I'd pull the head and bring it to a shop. They can put it in a tank and erode the part out of the head. I've had to do that before.
Having said that, if you go the punch route, I'd suggest a blade type of punch. You need as big an area as possible, or the punch will probably just shatter. The punch is going to crack and shatter anyways, but a blade will last a few more successions. So be prepared to regrind the blade on the punch multiple times, if you do it that way.
It's amazing how much of my experience I take for granted. It all seems so simple to me. But I've been doing it since I was one year old. By the time I was two, I had already slashed myself from dimantling toys; Electrocuted myself and sent off to the hospital (which explains a lot); And driven my parents car. That's right- standing on the seat.

heinrich

Brendan

I've been there done that. That particular bolt right there cost me a very serious amount of sweat when I was new to my first 928. Same same same. Seems the coolant and heat there just fuses the bolt (made out of recycled rat crap methinks) to the head threads.

So. First. Pull the hood.

Second. Get used to finding a comfy spot to sit on top of the engine. You'll be surprised how all those poky sharp uncomfortable things become like a livingroom sofa after a couple-8 hourse of yoga conforming your biological undercarriage to them.

Third. The easyout may come out relatively easily. I would pick at it, try things like a couple of narrow screwdrivers or sharp needlenose pliers. Either way, whether the head is in or out, you have to get the easy-out out. Btw ... I did it and it broke too and mine was thankfully a billion little pieces. I have NEVER trused that garbage ever again -- at least not the Sears ones. Funny though ... they refunded my $$

Fourth. Once the easyout is out, just drill perfectly and tap same size. I did and I was amazed at the thread I got. I think that bolt either came out perfectly or it is now part of my head. You have notheing to lose here, if it fails you can always go next size etc etc ....

Good luck. Heinrich

Brendan

UPDATE, semi success-
Im glad I didnt read Greg K's warning prior to going at it. Im sure I would have screwed it up out of fear alone. I was able to punch out the easy out and can now drill further down to catch the rest of the bolt. the biggest help was the dremmel with a cobalt bit that looks like a gear drive sort of thingy. That was the only thing able penetrate the easy out. The next task is to get deep enough to get all the bolt out and grab some good threads with the new diameter tap. Thanks for all the suggestions and If I had to pull that head........holy S#@T

borland

Brendan,

That probably won't work. The threads are tightly bound and so much so that they allowed the head to shear off the bolt.

Since you have no stud to work loose, I recommend you grind or drill out the stud so that you can install a thread insert. Doing so with a drill press would be much better (head removal required).

Good luck!

Gregg K

Sorry about that. I wanted to make sure you thought about it for a while. But I guess I created a bit of paranoia.

Hope it works out. No pun intended.

Brendan

I do appreciate the advice Gregg (spelled it right this time). Unfortunately when they named Murphys law after Murphy...they screwed up. Although Murphy is Irish too...he has way better luck than I.
I do have about 3/4" (depth) of hole exposed and ready for re threading. I will dig a bit deeper though. I think I may need to go to an 11 or 12mm hole thread though. Is there such a thing as 11mm?
Anyway, I will post my followup.

Garth S

Quote: "Is there such a thing as 11mm?"
Possibly, but SAE 7/16" is 11.1mm. If you go to the larger diameter bolt route vs. a helicoil ( or any other insert), there is often a SAE that is only slightly larger than the orriginal.