When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’m not sure what has occurred. I was trying to figure out my LED/stop lamp warning issue today and tried changing back to the original turn signal bulbs. When that didn’t work I put back the LEDs. When I move the signal stalk, you can hear the relay but turn signal cluster light “blips” but stops illuminating off/on. All the exterior signals operate as they should. Also, when I press the hazard button, the cluster light operates as it should. I find this odd. Any ideas what it could be?
You don't mention if your cluster indicator is LED or not. If so, check the polarity of the indicator in the dash or replace with a LED that is not polarity sensitive (not sure if they make those in B8.5d sockets).
You don't mention if your cluster indicator is LED or not. If so, check the polarity of the indicator in the dash or replace with a LED that is not polarity sensitive (not sure if they make those in B8.5d sockets).
It’s a Lutz board. I can’t remember what lights are in there. I had it in the garage this evening. When I flipped the stalk, the cluster flasher light was visible, but barely. So I’m guessing it is still related to the rear LED lights, but which ones, I do not know. All the lights were purchased from superbrightleds. I can’t find any thread on how to fix this. I’m guessing a resistor is needed, as @Speedtoys recommended but what kind, to which light or lights is unknown to me.
_I_ found that incandescent did NOT light up the elements as much as LED did, LEDs in my S4 had one bright hot spot, but didn't fill the whole element, and for the signal bulbs in the rear, I stayed with normal bulbs.
The turn signal (left/right/hazard) are completely separate from the brake bulbs.
The turn signal bulbs in the rear do not pass through the bulb check control. They are not monitored by that device. When the bulbs burn out on the turn signal circuits (all of them, front and rear) the flasher strobe frequency increases (ie. hyperflash). The increased rate indicated a lower load on the circuit which used to mean a blown bulb.
Since you didn't mention what kind of 928 you are working on, you've got us all guessing.
The turn signal (left/right/hazard) are completely separate from the brake bulbs.
The turn signal bulbs in the rear do not pass through the bulb check control. They are not monitored by that device. When the bulbs burn out on the turn signal circuits (all of them, front and rear) the flasher strobe frequency increases (ie. hyperflash). The increased rate indicated a lower load on the circuit which used to mean a blown bulb.
Since you didn't mention what kind of 928 you are working on, you've got us all guessing.
It is a '79. Sorry about that. I think I have two separate issues going on. One being the turn signal indicator on the cluster and the other is related to the stop lamp. As mentioned in one of my previous posts the cluster blinker does work, it is just very dim. I could not see it in the light. However, if I press the hazard button, it is nice and bright.
Unless you jumper out the bulb controller it's hard to make LEDs work right and not sure it's worth the hassle.
This is what has worked for others.
I didn't have to do this, I simply worked strategically.
3rd brake and rear T/S bulbs are incandescents, for the CC to work right, and the signals to look correct. No errors, no fast relay flashing, no issues...and the LED's where appropriate ARE brighter, and use a lot less energy, and with that comes a cooler relay and CE panel for everything involved.
I had a problem with my turn signal indicator which was similar to what was described on this thread. I just checked my notes on the resolution and the problem was that I had installed the LED bulb with the incorrect polarity. Turning the bayonet bulb 180 degrees and reinserting it solved the issue,
My comment on the ground path was incorrect. It was not the problem.
Last edited by copperstew; 05-28-2023 at 01:44 AM.
Reason: Incorrect resolution removed
Regarding your turn signal indicator in your dash. The problem is that your LEDs are not allowing a ground path for the bulb in your dash.
The solution is either: (1) Add load resistors to the rear turn signal LED bulbs; or (2) revert to an incandescent bulb on either the front or the rear turn signals (a partial LED solution as mentioned earlier), or (3) buy an amber LED with built-in load resistors.
My recommendation is to get a couple of the newer amber LED bulbs with built-in load resistors (you won't need four of them). Get two and put them in the left/right rear housings. Using those allows full LEDs all around and does not require any vampire taps on your wiring loom.
On Amazon, one query is "1156 led turn signal bulb with built in resistor" which returns several options with built-in resistors (and the correct amber color temp). They cost about double the price vs a regular 1156 LED bulb without added resistance.
I marked up an illustration of your 1979 dash indicator wiring. You can see that the path to ground when the flasher is not energized goes all the way to the turn signal bulbs (on my example the switch is closed to the LEFT).
Dash turn signal indicator path to ground for a 1979 928 NA
How is a working LED light(s) not providing ground?
05-25-2023, 08:43 PM
Weird Cluster Turn Signal Light Issue
