Tensioner Boot Failure - Total Gelly!
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Fred,
Thank you for the support. Tomorrow we put everything back together. Tension is at 5.2 now so will check how it idles tomorrow and listen to the sounds - hoping the weird sound is gone for good now.
One thing I did realize from the WSM is that Porsche filled the Tensioner before installing on the car it seems. If I am to eve use STP, I would do it that way as it was near darn impossible to get it through those little nozzle pinholes!
Thank you for the support. Tomorrow we put everything back together. Tension is at 5.2 now so will check how it idles tomorrow and listen to the sounds - hoping the weird sound is gone for good now.
One thing I did realize from the WSM is that Porsche filled the Tensioner before installing on the car it seems. If I am to eve use STP, I would do it that way as it was near darn impossible to get it through those little nozzle pinholes!
#17
Team Owner
no you fill the S4 tensioner after its installed,
only the early tensioner got filled before installation.
NOTE to fill the tensioner remove both bleeder screws,
then fill from the hole furthest from the crank
NOTE the innert C clip should have the open area facing to the sky,
the outer clamp crimp should be clocked at 11 O clock while facing the tensioner from the left fender .
Use Hondabond on the new gasket to prevent the leaking out of the oil.
When tightening the tensioner to the block,
press on the idler roller to load the tensioner to simulate the belt being under tension ,
then tighten the bolts.
This will reduce the chances of the belt getting loose,
as the tensioner will slide on the block face till it finds its home after a few heat cycles
only the early tensioner got filled before installation.
NOTE to fill the tensioner remove both bleeder screws,
then fill from the hole furthest from the crank
NOTE the innert C clip should have the open area facing to the sky,
the outer clamp crimp should be clocked at 11 O clock while facing the tensioner from the left fender .
Use Hondabond on the new gasket to prevent the leaking out of the oil.
When tightening the tensioner to the block,
press on the idler roller to load the tensioner to simulate the belt being under tension ,
then tighten the bolts.
This will reduce the chances of the belt getting loose,
as the tensioner will slide on the block face till it finds its home after a few heat cycles
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 03-11-2023 at 05:23 PM.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Stan,
Thank you for the feedback. Some of the pointers mentioned have been done during install (such as having the C circling at 12 o’clock and the crimp at 11 o’clock). I mounted the gasket dry to the block and tightened the bolts per Dwayne’s writeup without pushing the roller and the fill was done was as is before tightening the tensioner (which did not require a lot of turning). I kept the bleed screws open to let it vent pressure/oil as we adjusted the tension. Taking it off now will require substantial disassembly again and probably a new gasket. I hope this works fine otherwise it is back to square one
Thank you for the feedback. Some of the pointers mentioned have been done during install (such as having the C circling at 12 o’clock and the crimp at 11 o’clock). I mounted the gasket dry to the block and tightened the bolts per Dwayne’s writeup without pushing the roller and the fill was done was as is before tightening the tensioner (which did not require a lot of turning). I kept the bleed screws open to let it vent pressure/oil as we adjusted the tension. Taking it off now will require substantial disassembly again and probably a new gasket. I hope this works fine otherwise it is back to square one
#19
Team Owner
you remove the bleed screws to fill the tensioner, use a visene bottle
and you use Hondabond on the gasket,
with no additional sealant on the gasket it will start leaking sooner than later
and you use Hondabond on the gasket,
with no additional sealant on the gasket it will start leaking sooner than later
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Quick update for everyone.
Took the car for an extended drive today ~100km and pushed it to 180km/h across different roads. Drives like clockwork now. No sounds, on vibrations. Very happy with the cleanup.
To note, the WP I removed which was installed had a metal impeller, and the car with the new Porsche WP seems to be running cooler by a chunk. Also I do not have the jumps in temp anymore (drops and rises). Will update after 1000km.
Took the car for an extended drive today ~100km and pushed it to 180km/h across different roads. Drives like clockwork now. No sounds, on vibrations. Very happy with the cleanup.
To note, the WP I removed which was installed had a metal impeller, and the car with the new Porsche WP seems to be running cooler by a chunk. Also I do not have the jumps in temp anymore (drops and rises). Will update after 1000km.
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928Myles (03-15-2023)