sprie

In my quest to sort out the headlight gremlin, i am aiming to replace my ignition switch in case that can address it (or at least rule it out).
I have undone some of the various bolts/nuts around the pod to give me some limited access to the switch.
However, there seems to be a black plastic shroud around the switch and the wires around the back of the switch, which limits my access to the 2 bolts that i think i need to undo to remove the switch from the key barrel.
Do i have to just work around this plastic shroud and squeeze the tool into the head of the bolt somehow, or is it possible to ease the shroud off first?
I can't find any pictures or instructions that illustrate what to do - can anyone help.

Jerry Feather

It looks to me like that plastic shroud is simply covering the multi pin connector that I think is just pushed onto or into the switch. I suspect if you pull on it it will come off the switch with all the wires and connector inside it..
Edit: And it does not appear now to be pushed on all the way.

sprie

I have tried to squeeze it off, hence it looks like it is not all the way on. But that is as far as it moves at the moment.

Jerry Feather

It isn't just that plastic cover that you need to remove, but the entire cluster of wires inside of it and the multi pin connector at the ends of the wires. I would grip it around all of it with my hand and wiggle it back and forth while pulling . I think it will come off.

GeorgeM

Hey, Ian. I did that job a few months ago. The plastic cover is held on by the plastic tabs that grab on to that post. That's it. So if you just pry them a bit to get them past the head of the post, it'll slide off.

There are two screws holding the ignition switch on. Don't pull on it until you remove the screws. They're a bit tough to get to, especially the top one. I had to loosen all the pod mounting bolts and pop the instrument cluster from its rubber mounts to get to it. Then used a right angle ratcheting screwdriver tool. The screws are flat head, not Phillips, which makes it even more difficult. I replaced them with Phillips when I reassembled..

928NOOBIE

And the top screw is a flipping PITA and you are going to hate it cause it's a tiny little screw and should be not a big deal...I was screaming at it because I wouldn't remove the pod to install a new switch...which was a BAD decision...cause I fought it a lot longer than it would have taken to just remove pod...if the screw drops....well....sometimes crying is the way.

PC-85-928S

You can replace screws with these-
allen heads

FredR

That is the sensible way to solve the problem!

928Collector

Anyone know for a fact if i remove the instrument cluster/pod will I be able to directly/cleanly get to that second PITA screw on the top of ignition switch buried up and behind wires?

I ask as if its 1/2 hour of frustration but that i will remove and be able to screw back in that 2nd screw without removing the instrument pod I'm happy to take 30 minutes to do it..

But if i remove the instrument cluster and still have to wrestle with the screw then of course i'd rather save that time and remove the instrument pod at a later date when i have replacement bulbs, foil, other stuff i wanted to do.

Anyone ever replaced the ignition switch without removing the instrument pod?
Anyone ever replace the ignition switch by removing the instrument pod? Based on prior postings it sounds like the best way to go but i just want to confirm i'll have direct access to the 2nd screw.

Please weigh in.

As per some of the forums on the subject i have the below.

tough to get to 2nd screw. and important grove to align

Scotch tape around the tough/top 2nd screw for reinstallation

required screw driver

2nd screw is above/not visible hard to access

Mrmerlin

I take off the steering wheel then the pod then the gauges mark the wire connector on the gauges so you don’t swap them now is a good time to replace the odometer drive gear in the speedometer and refresh the illumination bulbs and the potentiometer once the gauges are removed then the switch is easy to get
Note extra handling of the gauges can damage the connector on the back

Hey_Allen

One idea to make reinstalling the ignition switch far simpler is to swap the screws out for socket head cap screws.

Edit: I just scrolled up and s aw that this had already been suggested.

928Collector

Thanks. Yes. i'm going to do so.
But anyone have advice on removing the ignition switch without removing the pod? Consensus here seems to be its much easier to access that PITA 2nd/upper screw on the ignition switch with the pod off.
but taking the pod off is a commitment to me - special LED bulbs, odometer gear, rheostat, 3 prisms, some other gauge/needle fixes. etc. Some say this creates all kinds of electrical gremlins and isn't as easy as plug and play.

How do i get the ignition switch off without removing the pod?
I think it helps to separate/pull off the black plug away from the ignition switch - no one has mentioned this yet.
And I got the small right angle screw driver someone mentioned.
I have to get a dental mirror but i'm going to try to use a bore scope camera.

Also has anyone fixed their headlight motor going up and down by replacing the ignition switch?

Anyone/anything else? Thanks for your help.

buccicone

Just did this operation removing the pod this week. PO was in there and the switch bolts were not correct one Philips and one flathead. I struggled to get on the bolts with the pod out. I don't know how you would do it with the still in the car.

68427vette

This is what I have learned from this thread...........sometimes crying is the way

928Collector

Just did the job this weekend.
Its easier to remove the instrument pod. You get direct access to the top PITA screw in the ignition switch with the instrument pod out.
Also first separate the brown "plug" that plugs into the brown part of the front of the ignition switch. this will give you some room to manuver a bit.
And definitely replace the two flat head screws in the ignition switch with the hex head screws.
also be sure to put it in the right way - see black circled dot and also the switch has a semi circle tab that guides you to put it in properly as there is a top and a bottom to the switch that can be confused/reversed.

There are a lot of good instructions on removing the pod. its marked as a "easy" task. To me, its a little tricky "medium" difficulty task as everything comes out - all the switches, unpluging in three 12 pin connectors, a couple of other male/femle connectors for the Rheostat, etc.