Speedtoys

This:
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...%20Refresh.htm

Basically, -everything- rubber and plastic above the engine block and heads.

Short answer..call 928srus.com, tell em you need a S4 intake refresh kit.

Not that ground points, etc dont need cleaned up, those wont solve your problem, have fun with the smoke test.

And I see ONE new (not sure whose it is) fuel line replaced in the front (not factory, which would be the BEST option)..but the feed line from the hard line from the pump, is OE..likely the one under the air filter as well...guaranteed the fuel dampers are frozen, and the damper leaks...

Its a lot of parts, a few dedicated weekends of time not including recovering the intake and valve covers..but super easy to actually _do_ if you follow that PDF.

If you try to shotgun why it runs odd, you'll spend 10x more time and get frustrated...this car needs the minimum baseline work done at this point for leaks..I bet you find split hoses under the intake, too.

Zirconocene

@Speedtoys : Jinx!

928NOOBIE

Jump point / 14 pin connector / jump point cover? I really can't see them? Please don't tell me the 14 pin isn't that taped up thingy hanging out by the air tube....

And yes that pile of brown ground wires has never seen the right side of a good clean. It'll run better just by straightening out the grounds...

R44flyer

Thank you all for your very helpful replies. I'm starting on the list :-)

C531XHO

[QUOTE=928NOOBIE;18479021]Jump point / 14 pin connector / jump point cover? I really can't see them? Please don't tell me the 14 pin isn't that taped up thingy hanging out by the air tube....

Yup that taped up thingy is the 14 connector. Its 2 part connection that fits in the funny bracket on the inner wing. Unwrap carefully and investigate for issues, contact cleaning, fitting in the corrext location

Mrmerlin

NOTE Roger has a pretty comprehensive list for the intake refresh,
including the 4 new double O ringed shaft bearings for the throttle and flappy shafts, you need 4 all together.
I estimate 5500.00 in parts and powder coating and shipping.
Make sure to replace the oil block off pins in the cam caps you need 5 pins,( done after removal of the cam covers)
NOTE if a 5 speed add in a GB oil block off plate for under the oil fill spout get a new spout as well as yours has to be warped

R44flyer

Thanks, I'll be chatting with him soon enough

R44flyer

UPDATE:
Today I was able to get a better look at things. I cleaned all the ground contact points, but no improvement. I DID find that the air intake hoses that go to the air filter are cracked and don't sit on the ports properly, so I need to order those.
I was told by the PO that the heater control is bypassed as the AC compressor was taken off the car. There are hoses that are not connected and one that is plugged off.
I'm adding some more photos I took. Any other constructive thoughts are welcome!

928NOOBIE

Get a new expansion tank cap...OEM if possible..pay more than $5.

Zirconocene

It's a topic of some debate but I wouldn't put too many calories into the first 2 photos you just put up. I'm not really sure where the consensus is vs. what Porsche engineers intended, but the intake tubes fitting on the belt covers is not so critical compared to some of the other things going on.

If you haven't already found the normal vendors, look up 928 International; Mark Anderson is bound to have some good used parts that will be helpful to you.

Since you've already found Roger and 928sRUs, explore the tech section available there. I think there are some vacuum diagrams on the site that will be helpful to you.

Other easy things that jump out at me, that you might want to order: the rubber isolators for the airbox are an easy fix. A replacement cap for the washer fluid is available. The rear fuel hoses look new, and the fuel pressure regulator also looks to have been replaced somewhat recently, so that's good. Your dampers look original, however, and might benefit from some attention. There are good aftermarket alternatives and, my opinion, it's worth spending some time considering your options as they can get very pricey very quickly. Your plastic heater valve thing looks new, too, so that's probably OK. However, you might want to check vacuum overall on your car. There are a lot of systems that rely on good vacuum, separate from the engine, so that might sort some things.

That's all I have right now. Happy Thanksgiving!

Cheers

R44flyer

Thanks Zirconocene,
For Thanksgiving I gifted myself a smoke machine ( just told the wife I was buying a smoker :-) ) So now I am searching for a good tutorial...

Mrmerlin

how about pull the camera back and show us a picture of the car.

aridaen

If you don't have one, get a vacuum tester. Most people like the Mityvac, so that's what I got too. I found a few of the vacuum solenoids had bad diaphrams that I couldn't have found without the tester. Also, pull the right front wheel and the fender liner. That houses the charcoal canister and windsheid washer tank/pump. The plastic y at the charcoal canister was broken on my 86.5 when I got it. The blue/red and brown wire you have above the expansion tank go to the coolant level sensor in the large white nut on the right of the tank. Mine was missing the connector when I got it and Mark at 928 International had one.

Speedtoys

" I found a few of the vacuum solenoids had bad diaphrams that I couldn't have found without the tester."

At 35+yrs old, they're all bad.

You dont replace the ones that test bad, you replace them -all-...you just prepare for that so you only open fragile body panels once.

Maybe you replace -a- bad vacuum pod when the car is 5yrs old, but not now.

FredR

A small point of note- each vacuum circuit in the HVAC system has a "vacuum actuator" and a "solenoid valve" the latter being used to apply the vacuum so that the actuator can be driven,