Trans pump snap ring
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Trans pump snap ring
I’m trying to replace the trans pump O ring, but I’m having trouble getting the snap ring off of the shaft on the back with the spring plate.
i made the PVC pipe tool to compress the spring plate, but I can’t get enough access to the snap ring to open it up.
is there a trick I’m missing?
do you even need to remove the spring plate to access the pump O ring? I don’t see any other way to get to the O ring.
every one says “ oh ya, just replace the O ring while you’re in there, simple.”.....
so far the biggest PITA of all the jobs I’ve done on this project car so far
any help or tips is appreciated
thanks
i made the PVC pipe tool to compress the spring plate, but I can’t get enough access to the snap ring to open it up.
is there a trick I’m missing?
do you even need to remove the spring plate to access the pump O ring? I don’t see any other way to get to the O ring.
every one says “ oh ya, just replace the O ring while you’re in there, simple.”.....
so far the biggest PITA of all the jobs I’ve done on this project car so far
any help or tips is appreciated
thanks
#2
Former Vendor
90 degree scribe tool or two (looks like a big dental pick) works.
You need to compress the spring plate and get under the edge of the spring retainer.
You need to compress the spring plate and get under the edge of the spring retainer.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Yep, I have a 90deg scribe, there just isn’t much room to get under the clip.
it appears that the outer portion of the shaft is partially over the snap ring
it appears that the outer portion of the shaft is partially over the snap ring
#4
Former Vendor
The plate which is under the retaining clip can get the "lip" pounded very badly, when the reverse clutches are worn out....making getting off the retaining clip more difficult.
What occurs is that the reverse piston has to travel further to put pressure onto the worn reverse clutches. The result is that the springs which return the piston go into "coil bind" (Coil bind is where a spring is fully compressed against all of its' coils and will not compress any further.. Since there isn't any more "travel" available. from the springs compressing, that plate distorts against the clip. (It's trying to rip the edge of the plate off.)
This can also damage the groove for the snap ring.
I replace the retaining clip and the spring retaining plate during almost every rebuild. Pretty much a "standard replacement part", for me.
Sometimes the retaining clip groove is so badly pounded that the front housing needs to be replaced.
(Obviously, if this is the case, you will want to look at your reverse clutches.)
What occurs is that the reverse piston has to travel further to put pressure onto the worn reverse clutches. The result is that the springs which return the piston go into "coil bind" (Coil bind is where a spring is fully compressed against all of its' coils and will not compress any further.. Since there isn't any more "travel" available. from the springs compressing, that plate distorts against the clip. (It's trying to rip the edge of the plate off.)
This can also damage the groove for the snap ring.
I replace the retaining clip and the spring retaining plate during almost every rebuild. Pretty much a "standard replacement part", for me.
Sometimes the retaining clip groove is so badly pounded that the front housing needs to be replaced.
(Obviously, if this is the case, you will want to look at your reverse clutches.)
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Update -
im a total schmoe, I was looking about an inch too high for the snap ring, that’s why I thought it was under the shaft
it was directly on top of the spring plate.
once I found it, replacing the pump seal was a breeze
thanks again Greg for your guidance
im a total schmoe, I was looking about an inch too high for the snap ring, that’s why I thought it was under the shaft
it was directly on top of the spring plate.
once I found it, replacing the pump seal was a breeze
thanks again Greg for your guidance