Hi All,
I recently acquired a 1982 Porsche 928 with 258k miles. The car itself has a ok interior with some of the leather lifting on the main dash and two hairline cracks on the dash around the pods. The seller said the car was serviced at TRE Los Angelas, but it looks like it was just to get the car running back in January of this year. I do not think the car has really been driven prior to me getting the car. Unfortunately, no service history but the engine sounded healthy. I drove the car from LA to SF Bay Area without issue. However, when I got home, I saw that there were some leaks underneath the car under the engine and another area dripping by the transmission. The car still drove fine.

Two days into ownership now the car won’t start.

*I checked to make sure the fuel pump gets primed.
*The green wire was frayed so I spliced it with new connectors.

The car still doesn’t start.

I am not getting any spark.

The rotor wasn’t moving when I turn the key.

I suspect that it is the timing belt now. I also have a new water pump that I’ll be putting in.

Is there any other major maintenance I should do while replacing the timing belt and water pump?

thanks in advance,
roc

 

Cool looking car,
BUT I would suggest that you turn the front collars of the shocks atleast 6 turns to raise the car back to stock ride height.
NOTE this so you dont destroy the AC compressor mounts and the Alternator mount from breaking off the engine block.

That said the early cars have a habit of snapping off the cam snout of the DS cam,
this is due to the cam gears working loose from the clamping force of the bolt/ washer.
This lets the pulley rock back and forth on the woodruff key and cam snout , worst case the pulley splits like a piece of pie.


I suggest to resurface the mating areas of the pulley if it is still has a snug fit to the cam ,
and dress the spacers and the driven gear as well with 400 grit paper and get new washers and cam bolts ,

NOTE put blue loctite on the bolt threads and add Loctite 660 to the cam pulley/ cam snout, torque to spec.

Make a note to use heat and puller to remove the cam pulleys.

NOTE replace ALL the seals on the front cam tower before reassembly of the pulley.
NOTE replace the pulleys if they have worn key slots and loose fitting on the cam.
NOTE this advice is indicated here due to the hi miles of the engine, pulley clamped wear or work hardening will be evident.

 

timing belt "while you're at it"......front main seal.
i always "polish" the metal surfaces that make contact with the seal before installing the new seal. the goal is to remove the bakes on orange/brown varnish...i think it causes tiny uneven areas in the surface that allow those 1 drip per day type of leak.

 

To add to Kevin's comment....with those miles I would also remove and inspect the oil pump 'while you are in there' and plan to replace the oil pump seal at minimum as well. In general its probably good to renew as many of the 'soft parts' as you can, especially if you don't know the history of the car.

To add to Stan's comments - when I did my TB/WP a couple of years ago with 125k, my tracking surface on the cam gears was shot - definitely an expense I was not planning on but had to be done. Check the wear on the areas where the belt 'rides' as compared to the edges of the gears where the belt does not touch.

 

The timing belt covers have a vent hole. You may be able to peek in there to see something of what is going on.

 

Makes sense Mrmerlin! Definately don't want to break anything because its too low. The suspension is toast, but will have to wait until i sort out the engine issues and get her running healthy.