Can a 85 use 87+ ignition coils?
#16
I recommend using identical coils on both sides. And testing them prior to installation to make sure that they at least are within spec (from WSM), and preferably are a close match to each other. If you happen to have an LRC meter, I would also be interested in the resistance and inductance across the two side terminals.
#17
Team Owner
Based on your report the right side coil is bad.
NOTE If you unplug any of the left plug wires from the cap the engine dies that means the right side wires are not producing enough spark.
Warning these hi tension wires can produce a very hi spark, with the engine running ,
that can kill a garden widget
NOTE If you unplug any of the left plug wires from the cap the engine dies that means the right side wires are not producing enough spark.
Warning these hi tension wires can produce a very hi spark, with the engine running ,
that can kill a garden widget
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davek9 (10-18-2022)
#18
I recommend using identical coils on both sides. And testing them prior to installation to make sure that they at least are within spec (from WSM), and preferably are a close match to each other. If you happen to have an LRC meter, I would also be interested in the resistance and inductance across the two side terminals.
Based on your report the right side coil is bad.
NOTE If you unplug any of the left plug wires from the cap the engine dies that means the right side wires are not producing enough spark.
Warning these hi tension wires can produce a very hi spark, with the engine running ,
that can kill a garden widget
NOTE If you unplug any of the left plug wires from the cap the engine dies that means the right side wires are not producing enough spark.
Warning these hi tension wires can produce a very hi spark, with the engine running ,
that can kill a garden widget
Last edited by dukenukemx; 10-18-2022 at 02:38 PM.
#19
**EDIT**
Is this the wire meant for that coil? Would be better than just modifying the coil.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...28M&DID=210909
Last edited by dukenukemx; 10-22-2022 at 03:49 AM.
#20
Team Owner
Note there are 2different coil ends you can order new coil wires you just need to know what type of coil you have
Note don’t modify your coil to fit the wire end
Note don’t modify your coil to fit the wire end
#21
#22
Team Owner
Sheesh call Roger and have him send you the correct coil wires...
he will know what you need but your going to have to answer a few questions first
he will know what you need but your going to have to answer a few questions first
#23
Former Sponsor
Wow.
What people, left unattended, can do...
What people, left unattended, can do...
#24
I'm not sure if that's a compliment.
Last edited by dukenukemx; 10-31-2022 at 11:47 PM.
#25
Rennlist Member
The external surface of the coil-facing ends of early 32v cars have a kind if hexagonal pattern that contacts the mating, call it inner diameter, surface of the coils. Snug, snap fit is the objective. Not sure I saw you recognize that feature, wondering if you saw that hex like pattern. And maybe what you started with wasn't original or correct. Not trying to cast dispersion here. I've got the cobble it up gene too.
Seems you didnt really address the a) vs b) fit in your analysis. Seems you swapped b) for a similar variant of b). Maybe you've achieved snug fit any how, which would make it driveable? What I mean is there are two very different boots possible, which differ in the part that contacts the coil.
OEM wires have that industrial crimp, tool is hundreds of dollars, and screw thread ends, also costly. All have that characteristic, and to Stan's point, with the screw ends, 'boots' can be swapped to match the coil to end.
Used to be at some point in past that you could buy a set of 8 plug wires, and it would come with two different pairs of coil wires. Only difference being the coil-facing ends.
Not certain what parts you actually have here, just be sure the boot and its electrode fit the coils snug
Seems you didnt really address the a) vs b) fit in your analysis. Seems you swapped b) for a similar variant of b). Maybe you've achieved snug fit any how, which would make it driveable? What I mean is there are two very different boots possible, which differ in the part that contacts the coil.
OEM wires have that industrial crimp, tool is hundreds of dollars, and screw thread ends, also costly. All have that characteristic, and to Stan's point, with the screw ends, 'boots' can be swapped to match the coil to end.
Used to be at some point in past that you could buy a set of 8 plug wires, and it would come with two different pairs of coil wires. Only difference being the coil-facing ends.
Not certain what parts you actually have here, just be sure the boot and its electrode fit the coils snug
Last edited by Landseer; 11-01-2022 at 01:12 AM.
#26
The external surface of the coil-facing ends of early 32v cars have a kind if hexagonal pattern that contacts the mating, call it inner diameter, surface of the coils. Snug, snap fit is the objective.
Seems you didnt really address the a) vs b) fit in your analysis. Seems you swapped b) for a similar variant of b). Maybe you've achieved snug fit any how, which would make it driveable? What I mean is there are two very different boots possible, which differ in the part that contacts the coil.
OEM wires have that industrial crimp, tool is hundreds of dollars, and screw thread ends, also costly. All have that characteristic, and to Stan's point, with the screw ends, 'boots' can be swapped to match the coil to end.
Used to be at some point in past that you could buy a set of 8 plug wires, and it would come with two different pairs of coil wires. Only difference being the coil-facing ends.
Not certain what parts you actually have here, just be sure the boot and its electrode fit the coils snug
Seems you didnt really address the a) vs b) fit in your analysis. Seems you swapped b) for a similar variant of b). Maybe you've achieved snug fit any how, which would make it driveable? What I mean is there are two very different boots possible, which differ in the part that contacts the coil.
OEM wires have that industrial crimp, tool is hundreds of dollars, and screw thread ends, also costly. All have that characteristic, and to Stan's point, with the screw ends, 'boots' can be swapped to match the coil to end.
Used to be at some point in past that you could buy a set of 8 plug wires, and it would come with two different pairs of coil wires. Only difference being the coil-facing ends.
Not certain what parts you actually have here, just be sure the boot and its electrode fit the coils snug
#27
Rennlist Member
The ones I'm speaking of are actually hexagonal. That's not it. I'll try to find a picture that contrasts them. I've had a. 85, 2 86 and an 86.5 all with the hex shape.
Ok, not hex. But different.
Ok, not hex. But different.
Last edited by Landseer; 11-01-2022 at 03:27 AM.
#28
Former Sponsor
All the connectors including the ones that go to the original coils have this style connector I have pictured bellow. The exception is the bottom of the cap that goes to the coil, which is the reason for the modification. The old spark plug wires I replaced earlier this year have the same style as the connector that goes to the new coil. I never noticed this until now because once I pulled out the old wires, I threw them into a corner in my garage and forgot about them. Wasn't until I was trying to Jerry rig that wire that I noticed this and was also kinda a blessing. Going by your analogy I took a A style + B style wire and changed it to a B+B. I just looked on pelican parts and found the wire I just created.
There's not a single person, on this Forum, trying to make your life more difficult.
They are simply trying to help you do it right, the first time.
Trust me, I've spent thousands of people's dollars tracing spark plug wire/coil wire issues on 928's.
Sometimes these problems are so intermittent that it takes many hours to figure out what is causing the intermittent problem.
Doing it right, the first time, is highly desirable.
And will save you money, in the long run.
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dukenukemx (11-03-2022)
#29
As the coup de grace I recreated the coil dust cover with my 3D printer. You have to rename the .zip to .3mf because rennlist won't let me upload it otherwise, and it's already compressed. I made it out of nylon so it should withstand the heat of the engine bay just fine. So if you happen to be missing a dust cover for your coil and have a 3D printer, you can make your own. I had one for the passenger side but no the drivers side.
Last edited by dukenukemx; 11-09-2022 at 12:13 PM.