Dreadful T-DAY is here...Did I get lucky?
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Burning Brakes
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Well its been a year and a half since I had my T-belt tightened. I had been getting the warning light back then. It has 45k on the belt and 5 years of usage.
Last night I took the car out for a power run and during the speed run it felt like I lost half of the engines power. The T-belt light did come on during the run and had been coming on before, but only under hard acceleration. I pulled the car into the garage and let it cool. When I started it I could hear a light "tat-tat-tat" coming from the front of the passenger side of the engine. It idled okay but I shut it off after 30 seconds in fear of a t-belt catastrophe.
Whats your impression of what happened? I also could smell the slight hint of hot or burning rubber.
Last night I took the car out for a power run and during the speed run it felt like I lost half of the engines power. The T-belt light did come on during the run and had been coming on before, but only under hard acceleration. I pulled the car into the garage and let it cool. When I started it I could hear a light "tat-tat-tat" coming from the front of the passenger side of the engine. It idled okay but I shut it off after 30 seconds in fear of a t-belt catastrophe.
Whats your impression of what happened? I also could smell the slight hint of hot or burning rubber.
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Im not planning on starting it at this point. Are there one site or many that address all the issues of replacement on my 86 32 valve?
I need to find out how I can tell if a any parts need to be refurbished or replaced.
Secondly, who makes the best quality T-Belt? I had heard that the Conti belt doesnt stretch as much, is that true or is there something better out there?
I need to find out how I can tell if a any parts need to be refurbished or replaced.
Secondly, who makes the best quality T-Belt? I had heard that the Conti belt doesnt stretch as much, is that true or is there something better out there?
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I have heard of some fellow shark owners who had stripped out teeth, I guess thats the most common way to a set of bent valves.
How loose does the T-belt have to become to start stripping out teeth and altering the cam timing? Many 928 owners say to stop driving immediately when the warning light comes on.
How loose does the T-belt have to become to start stripping out teeth and altering the cam timing? Many 928 owners say to stop driving immediately when the warning light comes on.
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Tsk tsk tsk, well, well, well Warrreeeennnn! How could you freakin' well break THE #1 commandment of 928 ownership & respect???
'nuf said! I really hope you got away with it, and will escape a much wiser man having spent only ~$400 on a timing belt/waterpump kit of parts.
Questions:
a) do you do your own work?
b) did the temp gauge or hi temp alarm come in with the TB tension alarm?
c) was there any coolant loss?
Before going any further, push (not start) the car into a 'work' position. Drain enough coolant to remove the top hoses, strip the ignition caps and two cam covers. Set the front on jack stands, drop the belly pan, and with a 27mm socket - turn the engine CLOCKWISE (facing the eng) to get the pointer on TDC. The eng should turn with reasonable effort - do not force.
At TDC, the cam wheel notches will/should be on their marks! If not, you need one more full rotation, as #1 cyl was on the exhaust stroke.
If the marks line up, you may be excused to do two back flips, and kiss your own butt while in mid air, and land singing Yankee Doodle!!!
If they do not, we'll be hearing from you - singing another tune.
BTW, as you do this, mostly from underneath, please examine every mm of the belt, and note if the back side is 'scuffed up' as well as tooth condition.
Good Luck!
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'nuf said! I really hope you got away with it, and will escape a much wiser man having spent only ~$400 on a timing belt/waterpump kit of parts.
Questions:
a) do you do your own work?
b) did the temp gauge or hi temp alarm come in with the TB tension alarm?
c) was there any coolant loss?
Before going any further, push (not start) the car into a 'work' position. Drain enough coolant to remove the top hoses, strip the ignition caps and two cam covers. Set the front on jack stands, drop the belly pan, and with a 27mm socket - turn the engine CLOCKWISE (facing the eng) to get the pointer on TDC. The eng should turn with reasonable effort - do not force.
At TDC, the cam wheel notches will/should be on their marks! If not, you need one more full rotation, as #1 cyl was on the exhaust stroke.
If the marks line up, you may be excused to do two back flips, and kiss your own butt while in mid air, and land singing Yankee Doodle!!!
If they do not, we'll be hearing from you - singing another tune.
BTW, as you do this, mostly from underneath, please examine every mm of the belt, and note if the back side is 'scuffed up' as well as tooth condition.
Good Luck!
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Warren,
Tell us, was it too much weed, or not enough? C'mon man, you should know well enough by now that whent he T-belt light comes on, you friggen STOP the car right where it is. That is unless you have unlimited wealth. Good luck... I'm afraid you'll need it.
"Duuuude! My dad has this awesome toolkit..."
Tell us, was it too much weed, or not enough? C'mon man, you should know well enough by now that whent he T-belt light comes on, you friggen STOP the car right where it is. That is unless you have unlimited wealth. Good luck... I'm afraid you'll need it.
"Duuuude! My dad has this awesome toolkit..."
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No, the temp guage or hi temp alarm did not come on. Oil pressure seemed normal. There was plenty of good clean oil in the engine when it happened.
Either I am extremely lucky for having this problem and that my shark runs but with a slight noise, enough to get me to do the T-Belt IMMEDIATELY or I might be paying the piper if this kind of situation results in valve work.
Will my shark still run even if something is seriously wrong with the valves?
I bought the Kempf tensioner tool. I will do my own work on it. Has anyone smoothed out their sharp gear teeth on their cam gears with a buffing wheel, sander or file?
I feel much better now that I have been roasted for doing the unforgivable to my 928. Please forgive me for not thinking clearly...But remember, I had to be impulsive enough to buy a 928 in the first place, which makes me somewhat irrational to begin with!
Either I am extremely lucky for having this problem and that my shark runs but with a slight noise, enough to get me to do the T-Belt IMMEDIATELY or I might be paying the piper if this kind of situation results in valve work.
Will my shark still run even if something is seriously wrong with the valves?
I bought the Kempf tensioner tool. I will do my own work on it. Has anyone smoothed out their sharp gear teeth on their cam gears with a buffing wheel, sander or file?
I feel much better now that I have been roasted for doing the unforgivable to my 928. Please forgive me for not thinking clearly...But remember, I had to be impulsive enough to buy a 928 in the first place, which makes me somewhat irrational to begin with!
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Could someone please direct me to the web sites about:
1)Changing the T-Belt
2)Rebuilding the tensioner
3)Inspecting all related parts for excessive wear.
4)Checking oil pump operation
If you have any interesting links or photos, please post them. It would be much appreciated, I just want to do the job right the first time. This car had a new long block engine installed from orlando porsche in 99'. Who would bet that they kept the old timing belt , water pump and oil pump?
1)Changing the T-Belt
2)Rebuilding the tensioner
3)Inspecting all related parts for excessive wear.
4)Checking oil pump operation
If you have any interesting links or photos, please post them. It would be much appreciated, I just want to do the job right the first time. This car had a new long block engine installed from orlando porsche in 99'. Who would bet that they kept the old timing belt , water pump and oil pump?
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Warren, put down the abrasive tools and step away from the car! If you can't get your cam gears to look perfect with Simple Green and a toothbrush, replace them! There is no viable alternative AFAIK. And yes, the car can run with bent valves.
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I just downloaded Pirtle's help website for timing belts. That site is a lifesaver, hats off to Mr. Pirtle!!
I'm not out of the woods yet. Can I take the front end of the engine off to inspect the belt without the crankshaft locking tool? Then at least I will know where I stand.
How many teeth can the T-belt jump or slip before it causes interference in the engine?
I'm not out of the woods yet. Can I take the front end of the engine off to inspect the belt without the crankshaft locking tool? Then at least I will know where I stand.
How many teeth can the T-belt jump or slip before it causes interference in the engine?