Won't start
#1
Burning Brakes
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Won't start
I just did plugs,cap & rotor. Now the car won't start. I've triple checked the route on the wires and even asked for help with the firing order. Is there anything i've missed? I want to drive it everyday so this is making me nutz. Your help is really appreciated.
#3
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Ron use an old spark plug grounded to the car hook any plug wire to it and have someone crank the engine look for spark ...BUT be sure you are not the GROUND ....
#4
Burning Brakes
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Thanks for the replys . . . Jim, I got spark and while it's cranking it sounds like it wants to start but coughs & spits. I stop at that point because I don't want to call you for a starter. Funny thing, I just got off the phone with you too.
#6
Burning Brakes
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Don, Thanks for the reply. But I drove the car into the garage. The timing was a thought, but since I drove the car I ruled that out. Could it be timing? If it is, how do I fix it? I need help here.
#7
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What else might you have disterbed? Possibly the infamous green wire?
Are you sure you have the cap on right side up, and connected the plugs to the correct port on the cap? And gotten the correct banks?
For reference, the passaners side bank is 1,2,3,4 and the drivers side is 5,6,7,8.
Also the cap goes with the number 1 plug port in about the 1 to 2 o-clock position, not the 7 to 8 o-clock position.
Finaly, did you get the correct parts?
Are you sure you have the cap on right side up, and connected the plugs to the correct port on the cap? And gotten the correct banks?
For reference, the passaners side bank is 1,2,3,4 and the drivers side is 5,6,7,8.
Also the cap goes with the number 1 plug port in about the 1 to 2 o-clock position, not the 7 to 8 o-clock position.
Finaly, did you get the correct parts?
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#9
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Start from scratch...
Trace the plug wire from the forward cylinder on the right (passenger side in the USA) bank to the distributor cap. Mark the body directly under the point where that plug wire enters. Remove the distributor cap.
Turn the engine by hand (ONLY in the bolt-tightening direction!) using the crank bolt until the crank is on "0" TDC.
Look at the rotor and see if it is pointing directly at the mark on the distributor body. If it is pointing directly away from the mark, turn the crank one full turn back to TDC and recheck. If the rotor is pointing 1/8th of a turn away from the mark, you need to move all of the wires one hole.
Don't change the timing until you are certain that the plug wires are right.
Trace the plug wire from the forward cylinder on the right (passenger side in the USA) bank to the distributor cap. Mark the body directly under the point where that plug wire enters. Remove the distributor cap.
Turn the engine by hand (ONLY in the bolt-tightening direction!) using the crank bolt until the crank is on "0" TDC.
Look at the rotor and see if it is pointing directly at the mark on the distributor body. If it is pointing directly away from the mark, turn the crank one full turn back to TDC and recheck. If the rotor is pointing 1/8th of a turn away from the mark, you need to move all of the wires one hole.
Don't change the timing until you are certain that the plug wires are right.
#11
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I give up . . Getting a tow truck and off to the shop it goes. I have a good shop, just that they leave grease prints all over the car inside & out.
#12
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If you've gone through all the ignition checks listed, have spark, #1 wire at the rotor at TDC, and have not moved the disrtibutor - then, do you smell raw fuel at the exhaust when you crank it over? ( got lots of gas in the tank? I know, but it has happened.)
Fuel pressure in the rails ( crack open an end cap), clicking noise from the injectors are must signs, and should be checked next.
Fuel pressure in the rails ( crack open an end cap), clicking noise from the injectors are must signs, and should be checked next.