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#31
Originally posted by ViribusUnits
One thing you need to know.
The AFM is NOT a linear relationship.
Blue lights do NOT always corrospond to rich conditions for what your aiming for. The narrow band O2 sensor tells you 3 things: if your rich of 14.7, at 14.7, or lean of 14.7. This corrosponds well to cruiseing conditions, when you want a mixture of 14.7 for emissions and fuel economey reasons, however, for boosted WOT application, 14.7:1 is BAD!
Thats it. It can not, and does no reliable tell you anything else. If your showing a "rich" voltage, your anywhere between 10:1, and 13:1. Where? You just don't know.
One thing you need to know.
The AFM is NOT a linear relationship.
Blue lights do NOT always corrospond to rich conditions for what your aiming for. The narrow band O2 sensor tells you 3 things: if your rich of 14.7, at 14.7, or lean of 14.7. This corrosponds well to cruiseing conditions, when you want a mixture of 14.7 for emissions and fuel economey reasons, however, for boosted WOT application, 14.7:1 is BAD!
Thats it. It can not, and does no reliable tell you anything else. If your showing a "rich" voltage, your anywhere between 10:1, and 13:1. Where? You just don't know.
#32
Did you not pay attention to Lag?
Anything over about 12.5:1 is BAD!
You want it to be between 11:1 and 12.5:1. There is no way for a narrow band O2 sensor to tell you that. It's that simple.
Most of the narrow band O2 sensor kits come with a multitude of lights, of the 3 colors. The 3 colors are all that the O2 sensor tells you. The rest of the lights are nothing but a pretty marketing trick.
Anything over about 12.5:1 is BAD!
You want it to be between 11:1 and 12.5:1. There is no way for a narrow band O2 sensor to tell you that. It's that simple.
Most of the narrow band O2 sensor kits come with a multitude of lights, of the 3 colors. The 3 colors are all that the O2 sensor tells you. The rest of the lights are nothing but a pretty marketing trick.
#33
Bill,
Yup, WBO2 is the only really accurate way to know your AFR.
As cheap ($349) as an accurate meter is now, you really should have one.
If you need fuel rails to hold larger, cheaper later style injectors (non-hose type) I have them on the shelf now. I also will have a replacement -8 AN hardline solution from the tank forward in the next few weeks.
Yes, you need more fuel for more than ~500 RWHP than the factory system can provide for any MY. The 84s need some upgrades past about 6 psi to keep mixtures where you want.
Greg
Yup, WBO2 is the only really accurate way to know your AFR.
As cheap ($349) as an accurate meter is now, you really should have one.
If you need fuel rails to hold larger, cheaper later style injectors (non-hose type) I have them on the shelf now. I also will have a replacement -8 AN hardline solution from the tank forward in the next few weeks.
Yes, you need more fuel for more than ~500 RWHP than the factory system can provide for any MY. The 84s need some upgrades past about 6 psi to keep mixtures where you want.
Greg
#34
Originally posted by ViribusUnits
Did you not pay attention to Lag?
Anything over about 12.5:1 is BAD!
You want it to be between 11:1 and 12.5:1. There is no way for a narrow band O2 sensor to tell you that. It's that simple.
Most of the narrow band O2 sensor kits come with a multitude of lights, of the 3 colors. The 3 colors are all that the O2 sensor tells you. The rest of the lights are nothing but a pretty marketing trick.
Did you not pay attention to Lag?
Anything over about 12.5:1 is BAD!
You want it to be between 11:1 and 12.5:1. There is no way for a narrow band O2 sensor to tell you that. It's that simple.
Most of the narrow band O2 sensor kits come with a multitude of lights, of the 3 colors. The 3 colors are all that the O2 sensor tells you. The rest of the lights are nothing but a pretty marketing trick.
#35
Originally posted by gbyron
Bill,
Yup, WBO2 is the only really accurate way to know your AFR.
As cheap ($349) as an accurate meter is now, you really should have one.
If you need fuel rails to hold larger, cheaper later style injectors (non-hose type) I have them on the shelf now. I also will have a replacement -8 AN hardline solution from the tank forward in the next few weeks.
Yes, you need more fuel for more than ~500 RWHP than the factory system can provide for any MY. The 84s need some upgrades past about 6 psi to keep mixtures where you want.
Greg
Bill,
Yup, WBO2 is the only really accurate way to know your AFR.
As cheap ($349) as an accurate meter is now, you really should have one.
If you need fuel rails to hold larger, cheaper later style injectors (non-hose type) I have them on the shelf now. I also will have a replacement -8 AN hardline solution from the tank forward in the next few weeks.
Yes, you need more fuel for more than ~500 RWHP than the factory system can provide for any MY. The 84s need some upgrades past about 6 psi to keep mixtures where you want.
Greg
Thanks for the offer on the fuel rails, I'll keep that in mind. You are correct in your statement that the '84 needs bigger injectors to get much past 350 hp. You can increase the fuel pressure to gain more fuel flow, but at some point you just run out of pulse width. Nissan 280ZX Turbo injectors (32 lbs/hour) will fit my '84 with the stock fuel rails, I'm headed that route now if I can verify that they're low Z.
#36
I didn't get a chance to check my fueling table change last night, it was getting late so I just burned a new EPROM, made sure it would start, saw it was running richer at idle, and quit for the night. This morning I have the 9th light on my AFR meter flickering on, so the fuel at WOT did get fatter.
I know, I know, I can't say by the LEDs if it is 11.8 or 11.7. What I can say is I am a long way from 14.7:1 at WOT, and a little bit farther away than yesterday. I'm going to do some plug cuts again at lunch time today just to be sure. Regardless of what the O2 guage says, the best way to know what's going on in your cylinders is to look at the plugs.
I know, I know, I can't say by the LEDs if it is 11.8 or 11.7. What I can say is I am a long way from 14.7:1 at WOT, and a little bit farther away than yesterday. I'm going to do some plug cuts again at lunch time today just to be sure. Regardless of what the O2 guage says, the best way to know what's going on in your cylinders is to look at the plugs.
#37
Bill, nice looking bracket and the idler pully design looks good. How do you index the idler pulley adjustment to tension the belt? I can't tell from the picture if there is a adjustment mechanizm, or if you just set the tension with some leverage on the pulley while at the same time, tighten down on the locking nuts.
The discussion surrounding aluminum vs steel brackets left a couple of impressions on me. The first was the metal fatigue, vibration differences, and the second was the coefficient of expansion differences. I will be very interested to see how your bracket holds up.
Please tell me more about your intercooler. In your install I don't see where it is fitted. It is an air to air unit. so I am interested in how you will run your plumbing between the blower and the intake manifold to fit the intercooler.
Question for the guys running the wide band O2 sensor: Do you install that in addition to the stock sensor? where and how do you do this?
The discussion surrounding aluminum vs steel brackets left a couple of impressions on me. The first was the metal fatigue, vibration differences, and the second was the coefficient of expansion differences. I will be very interested to see how your bracket holds up.
Please tell me more about your intercooler. In your install I don't see where it is fitted. It is an air to air unit. so I am interested in how you will run your plumbing between the blower and the intake manifold to fit the intercooler.
Question for the guys running the wide band O2 sensor: Do you install that in addition to the stock sensor? where and how do you do this?
#38
Originally posted by Gretch
Bill, nice looking bracket and the idler pully design looks good. How do you index the idler pulley adjustment to tension the belt?
--snip--
Please tell me more about your intercooler.
--snip--
Question for the guys running the wide band O2 sensor: Do you install that in addition to the stock sensor? where and how do you do this?
Bill, nice looking bracket and the idler pully design looks good. How do you index the idler pulley adjustment to tension the belt?
--snip--
Please tell me more about your intercooler.
--snip--
Question for the guys running the wide band O2 sensor: Do you install that in addition to the stock sensor? where and how do you do this?
The WBO2 is getting it's own bung welded into the headers on my car. Unless you are running some aftermarket engine controller that is designed for WBO2 you will have to run the zirconium based switching O2 sensor also. The outputs of the switching O2 sensor and WBO2 are not compatable. Mine gets fed to a spare analog input on the '749 to get digitized and is reported in the ALDL data stream to the laptop for data logging.
BTW, a while back when you first reported getting yours on the road I asked how your intake air was plumbed but didn't get an answer. Would you mind sharing a pic or 2 of the intake side of your SC?
#39
Originally posted by bshaw
BTW, a while back when you first reported getting yours on the road I asked how your intake air was plumbed but didn't get an answer. Would you mind sharing a pic or 2 of the intake side of your SC?
BTW, a while back when you first reported getting yours on the road I asked how your intake air was plumbed but didn't get an answer. Would you mind sharing a pic or 2 of the intake side of your SC?
#41
Here, you can see part of the air box on the front of the blower, aluminum fabricated. It attaches to a 4" hose (gray ribbed in the picture) that drops straight down between the fan fames, to the bottom of the radiator frame and then runs along the bottom of the radiator and into the front fender behind the headlight
#43
Originally posted by Gretch
Here, you can see part of the air box on the front of the blower, aluminum fabricated. It attaches to a 4" hose (gray ribbed in the picture) that drops straight down between the fan fames, to the bottom of the radiator frame and then runs along the bottom of the radiator and into the front fender behind the headlight
Here, you can see part of the air box on the front of the blower, aluminum fabricated. It attaches to a 4" hose (gray ribbed in the picture) that drops straight down between the fan fames, to the bottom of the radiator frame and then runs along the bottom of the radiator and into the front fender behind the headlight
Yours is an iron bracket? Bolted to the water pump? The little bit of it that I can see looks generally like mine. Guess that would figure since Tim started with the FAST kit and made his improvements from there.
Stock V-drive PS belt, alt belt in stock position, so the crank pulley has been modified from the FAST design also. Interesting...
#45
Originally posted by bshaw
I'm not running 14.1:1 at WOT, not even close. I'm seeing 8 out of 10 LEDS lit at WOT, and it holds steady from when it goes open loop up to about 5500 RPM (I am staying away from redline for now).
I'm not running 14.1:1 at WOT, not even close. I'm seeing 8 out of 10 LEDS lit at WOT, and it holds steady from when it goes open loop up to about 5500 RPM (I am staying away from redline for now).
As others noted, get your WBO2 installed immediately as it's your most important gauge with a supercharged car since the air/fuel ratio is so important. When installed, you will know the EXACT air/fuel ratio, unlike a narrow-band one.
The WBO2 is getting it's own bung welded into the headers on my car.
Originally posted by Gretch
Question for the guys running the wide band O2 sensor: Do you install that in addition to the stock sensor? where and how do you do this?
Question for the guys running the wide band O2 sensor: Do you install that in addition to the stock sensor? where and how do you do this?