928SS

yep. so do I I did manage to find a few 101 octane pumps in SOCAL, but it's $5.85/gal... so I'm still messing w/different fuels and pump/higher octane blends... ie, a couple gals of VP 111 seems to be the best bang/$$, although it doesn't mind straight 111 or 101 either (unlike my wallet)

maybe santa will give me a 55 gal drum of VP 111 I've been pretty good - 1109 mi. w/this beast and no tickets yet!!! whoo hooo!!

whatever you do, go w/the bigger (1.75") headers and a larger throttle body - theres soooo much torque down low that you just cant use due to traction issues, even w/the slushbox (you can only roll into it gently, as anything more just results in bill ball type smoke). so I don't think you'll miss the low end loss a bit and it'll just help the top end be even more fierce - so it's a good trade-off, IMO...

sounds like you are getting close!! keep us posted!!

John Veninger

I have a set of big headers on order, should be here soon.
Wonder if anyone ever got their Devek Level II headers????

BC

I have also been thinking about having my tb drilled out larger. I'll be doing the vortech thing though. On a 5.0L. I don't want to lose transition resolution at the throttle, which could happen with a larger throttle body.

928SS

probably depends on how much we punch it out... IIRC, the 85S had a 100mm TB vs 95mm TB the for later cars... wanted to use my 85 TB, but w/the later intake it was a no go/fit... so I'd bet at least 100mm should be a good starting point for a "heavy breather", although I suspect there's a lot of testing that could be done in that regard.... NA is also probably more sensitive than FI, I'm guessing.... so many combinations - so little dyno time

inactiveuser92616

I like this thread; and the links in it.

JEC_31

Excellent thread, I've been bootlegging the articles from the links for future reference.

fst951

Lag.

There is no way the 2003 and 2004 SVT Mustang Cobras are good for 1000 HP in stock trim! The bigest problem they have is dropping valve seats at 500 horsepower whenever run for an extended time. Good engines, but get over the fantasy of durability in the valvetrain because it just isn't there. A Supra straight six, however does have the best potential for high output for a long time. Don't get me wrong $8k and proper tuning and it will walk the dog on about any 928 ever put to the street up to about 120mph.

Good luck!

Garrity

928SS

interesting point garrity - the turbo 911 guys are measuring OH times in hours when running hard over 500hp... seems that at about 750hp their mahles are cracking around the wrist pin at about 20hrs or so!!

since I finally decided to just do a NA motor, I used some really light carrillo a-series stuff that the sprint car guys use - good up to about 600+ or so hp/8k rpms... saved about 3400 grams of recip. mass w/the rods and pistons!! seems to "rev like a motorcycle" according to a few hot rod bikers that witnessed a "demo"

oh yeah - update on clearances: even w/the .0035" piston to wall gap that JE recommends - at 40F theres still no audible slapping, so I guess they know what they are talking about (so far) IIRC, when at about 180F the clearances drop to around .0020" or so - but for blower/FI/NOS apps they want clearances up to .0050" for a slug =>4.0" diameter!!

millinium did the fitting w/ the block and pistons at 70F, which is also JE's specs, FWIW... the JE job # for my pistons was: 459735 (JE's, etc links are on my sharkpage)... it's on file for their CNC machine now keep in mind I had to deck my block about .010" due to a cyl chip, and like john v, the 968 CH pistons are about .011" out of the hole to start with - so my set was .025" CH lower than the 968 spec. for a nice flush 0.0 deck ht fit.. if your deck is ok, then you can add back the .010'CH on the above set for a flush fit... IIRC, the dish vol wound up being about 34cc - pretty much the limit w/out getting stupid on structure limits, etc according to JE... I used a .043" cometic head gasket, but it's still less than the 1.4mm porsche allows for rebuilt motors, so theres room to lower static comp a tad more if it's a street motor. (at 11.3:1 on 91octane its ok, but sure does like higher octane if you can find/afford it)

only other noteworthy stuff I remember: stay away from high tension chrome rings w/the nicom bores; watch out for perfect seal rings too - je doesn't recommend them on NA street motors, but FI/race stuff seems ok. be sure to use lots of dish soap and water to clean the block prior to assembly (anything that leaves a residue is a no-no), don't forget to modify the main bearings for the cheby/HP style crank oiling system, stay away from ARP bolts on the heads (they don't stretch like OEM, and will loosen up), and if you start w/an 87 MY up you'll save a bundle vs upgrading the earlier 32V stuff

be sure to use the latest GTS oil control stuff too - I've watched my old gal run ragged on the dyno, seen the spedo go over 145mph, cornered as hard as I can all the way up and down the local mountians w/285x18's and it still hasn't used any oil!! before it would have guzzled a qt or two by now!! it's just hoses, a baffle, oil filler modified and extra breathers on the valve covers, but makes a huge diff!!!

Warren928

Good point on the Ford 4.6 engine, they overlooked that area.

Each car has its own strong points and weak ones. Ours currently is the low cost of buying one and pretty low cost of getting 500 hp out of one.

I wont even get into Supras or Mustangs, but they do have their issues and its just another game altogether, something I definately dont want to do engine swaps on, a difficult task.
Its rare when you hear of an engine swapped (manufacturer) car being a daily driver that puts on decent miles every year. Thats because nobody can engineer all those major parts to fit together quite as well as Dr. Porsche.
It Would make a good weekend car or a "drive and tinker with" automobile. How do I know? From building one myself.

BC

I bought ARP studs for my 89 block build up. I'll probably use a Cometic with these. I'll have to make sure to concentrate on getting them right.

Andre Moore

As much as I love my 928's the truth is my 04' Cobra will "walk the dog" on any stock 928. I agree above 120mph the 928 will be a hell of lot more stable. but the Cobra wll have been there and finished long before the 928. You need stroker power or SC to catch the stang.

Andre'

928SS

might want to ck w/greg at precison and phil threshie too- IIRC, the 944 folks had fits having to retorque heads w/ARP studs due to block/head expansion diffs... maybe they offer material choices now??

or get them to work together at all!! w/a 928 it's pretty hairy just swapping heads, ECU's, TBelt stuff and intakes w/earlier 32V and later 32V stuff. integrating the harnesses, drivelines, fuel systems, and linkages/ misc hardware was nearly a 90hr job - w/guys that eat and breathe 928's!! bout the only things I managed to save under the hood were motor mounts, accessories (alt,PS,AC,starter), and the block

amazingly though- cruise control, high intensity & headlight washers, and pod stuff all work perfectly given some of that stuff didn't work 1/2 the time in the last 11yrs I owned the car in stock form, it turned out extremely well as a solid 20 year old daily driver IMO. but I think I was also extremely lucky sensors used similar voltages, plugs fit(although some remapping was needed), and all that stuff fit under the hood w/out surgery or looking like it didn't come from the factory that way

iirc, there's a cheby powered 928 guy on the rennlist that seems to have done a pretty nice job - but it was not trivial by any means and there were some challenging electrical and driveline issues (couldn't use OEM pod/tach etc)... did seem to run like stink, and being able to just go to pep boys for parts must be a hoot