Cam lifters?
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey, I have a 83 euro 4.7 and it needs cam lifters because they are pitted. A friend of mine has a set of good used lifters. Can I use them in my engine without ruining my camshafts? In American V8s I have always heard that you have to use new lifters because the cam and lifters wear together, are the 928s different? Thanks for your time!
#2
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Please post pictures of the cams and lifters you have to see what else might be an issue,
. making people guess about this is not the best path.
. making people guess about this is not the best path.
#4
#5
#6
Former Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey, I have a 83 euro 4.7 and it needs cam lifters because they are pitted. A friend of mine has a set of good used lifters. Can I use them in my engine without ruining my camshafts? In American V8s I have always heard that you have to use new lifters because the cam and lifters wear together, are the 928s different? Thanks for your time!
However, because the valve spring pressures are greatly reduced on an overhead cam engine (versus a pushrod V--8), the use of different liters on 928 camshafts does not seem to be as critical.
Additionally, the contact surface area of the cam lobes and lifters is much larger on a 928 than any American V-8, reducing the pressure per square inch.
In your situation, I'd look for a really nice set of used lifters. While not a perfect solution, the odds of failure are probably acceptable.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
928 engines used the same materials for cams and lifters that all American engines (of that vintage) used, so the recommendation about using different used lifters on camshafts applies to these engines also.
However, because the valve spring pressures are greatly reduced on an overhead cam engine (versus a pushrod V--8), the use of different liters on 928 camshafts does not seem to be as critical.
Additionally, the contact surface area of the cam lobes and lifters is much larger on a 928 than any American V-8, reducing the pressure per square inch.
In your situation, I'd look for a really nice set of used lifters. While not a perfect solution, the odds of failure are probably acceptable.
However, because the valve spring pressures are greatly reduced on an overhead cam engine (versus a pushrod V--8), the use of different liters on 928 camshafts does not seem to be as critical.
Additionally, the contact surface area of the cam lobes and lifters is much larger on a 928 than any American V-8, reducing the pressure per square inch.
In your situation, I'd look for a really nice set of used lifters. While not a perfect solution, the odds of failure are probably acceptable.
Trending Topics
#8
Former Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'd certainly lubricate the cam and lifters with a high grade assembly lube (Torco makes a very good one) and run a high grade break-in oil (15-50 Driven is very good) which contains ample anti-skuffing compounds.
It is also key to have everything correctly assembled and get the engine to start immediately after first crank.
Additionally, as soon as oil pressure has been established, run the engine at 1,200-1500 rpms rpms, until the hydraulic lifters quit clattering. Once the lifters quit making noise, run the engine for at least 30 minutes, without allowing it to idle.
The following users liked this post:
928FIXER (12-31-2021)
#9
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"What do you have to loose?" is a consideration, also. 4.7 liter Euro cams are fairly rare.
I'd certainly lubricate the cam and lifters with a high grade assembly lube (Torco makes a very good one) and run a high grade break-in oil (15-50 Driven is very good) which contains ample anti-skuffing compounds.
It is also key to have everything correctly assembled and get the engine to start immediately after first crank.
Additionally, as soon as oil pressure has been established, run the engine at 1,200-1500 rpms rpms, until the hydraulic lifters quit clattering. Once the lifters quit making noise, run the engine for at least 30 minutes, without allowing it to idle.
I'd certainly lubricate the cam and lifters with a high grade assembly lube (Torco makes a very good one) and run a high grade break-in oil (15-50 Driven is very good) which contains ample anti-skuffing compounds.
It is also key to have everything correctly assembled and get the engine to start immediately after first crank.
Additionally, as soon as oil pressure has been established, run the engine at 1,200-1500 rpms rpms, until the hydraulic lifters quit clattering. Once the lifters quit making noise, run the engine for at least 30 minutes, without allowing it to idle.