RMS issues
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,271
From: Philly PA
Nice pictures what I see, the seal should be installed flush with the rear edge of the sealing well,
yours appears to be pressed in too far.
NOTE the pry out groove should be dressed so its smooth on the seal bore ,
yours looked like the edge might be deformed, need a different angle picture to see that .
Anyway try it it might work.
NOTE I clean the crank sealing surface with red scotchbrite,
then flush it clean, then blow it dry.
I put a few drops of STP oil treatment on the inner seal,
and wipe the crank surface with a Q tip soaked in STP,
then install the seal
yours appears to be pressed in too far.
NOTE the pry out groove should be dressed so its smooth on the seal bore ,
yours looked like the edge might be deformed, need a different angle picture to see that .
Anyway try it it might work.
NOTE I clean the crank sealing surface with red scotchbrite,
then flush it clean, then blow it dry.
I put a few drops of STP oil treatment on the inner seal,
and wipe the crank surface with a Q tip soaked in STP,
then install the seal
Last edited by Mrmerlin; Jan 1, 2022 at 11:53 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 862
Likes: 27
From: Puerto Banus - Marbella, Spain
Nice pictures what I see, the seal should be installed flush with the rear edge of the sealing well,
yours appears to be pressed in too far.
NOTE the pry out groove should be dressed so its smooth on the seal bore ,
yours looked like the edge might be deformed, need a different angle picture to see that .
Anyway try it it might work.
NOTE I clean the crank sealing surface with red scotchbrite,
then flush it clean, then blow it dry.
I put a few drops of STP oil treatment on the inner seal,
and wipe the crank surface with a Q tip soaked in STP,
then install the seal
yours appears to be pressed in too far.
NOTE the pry out groove should be dressed so its smooth on the seal bore ,
yours looked like the edge might be deformed, need a different angle picture to see that .
Anyway try it it might work.
NOTE I clean the crank sealing surface with red scotchbrite,
then flush it clean, then blow it dry.
I put a few drops of STP oil treatment on the inner seal,
and wipe the crank surface with a Q tip soaked in STP,
then install the seal
There are no deformations in the groove. Just sort of looks like it.
Red scotchbrite might be a very good idea.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 862
Likes: 27
From: Puerto Banus - Marbella, Spain
Is there a general consensus that the RMS must be flush? Or?
On the crank surface there is no difference?
On the engine block surface there is no difference?
The only difference is the pry gap, which one would think would benefit the seal to be a bit further in rather than out? As you you would get a larger sealing surface right behind the pry gap?
On the crank surface there is no difference?
On the engine block surface there is no difference?
The only difference is the pry gap, which one would think would benefit the seal to be a bit further in rather than out? As you you would get a larger sealing surface right behind the pry gap?
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 15,228
Likes: 2,530
From: Anaheim
The factory flywheel seal installation tool leaves the seals "proud" about 1mm, like Kevin's GT engine sample
However, there is plenty of dimension on the crankshaft and the crankcase for the seal to be installed deeper (also mentioned above.)
Since the Elring seal is "all seal" material on the OD, there's no advantage to installing it deeper.
However, the Victor Reinz seal, with the "metal entry portion", barely has enough "seal material" to get past the pry relief cut out in the crankcase and seems like it should be deeper.
Consequently, I have two different factory insertion tools...one that I machined to install the Victor Reinz style deeper.
A note about the crankcases and the need to have a tool which installs the front and rear seals in the plane exactly perpendicular to the crankshaft:
The two crankcase halves are not necessarily at the same height....some are close and some are radically different.. Setting a seal, using these two edges as a reference, will almost always result in seal seepage.
Porsche made tools that installs the seals perfectly with the crankshaft as the reference surface, for a reason.
However, there is plenty of dimension on the crankshaft and the crankcase for the seal to be installed deeper (also mentioned above.)
Since the Elring seal is "all seal" material on the OD, there's no advantage to installing it deeper.
However, the Victor Reinz seal, with the "metal entry portion", barely has enough "seal material" to get past the pry relief cut out in the crankcase and seems like it should be deeper.
Consequently, I have two different factory insertion tools...one that I machined to install the Victor Reinz style deeper.
A note about the crankcases and the need to have a tool which installs the front and rear seals in the plane exactly perpendicular to the crankshaft:
The two crankcase halves are not necessarily at the same height....some are close and some are radically different.. Setting a seal, using these two edges as a reference, will almost always result in seal seepage.
Porsche made tools that installs the seals perfectly with the crankshaft as the reference surface, for a reason.
Last edited by GregBBRD; Jan 3, 2022 at 01:26 PM.
