Coolent leak
#5
Rennlist Member
If you're talking about the rad drain, then the leak is likely at the seal between the plastic end tank and the metal rad core. Repairable, but tricky to do well.
Or, if the drain referred to is a block drain, then .....
Or, if the drain referred to is a block drain, then .....
#6
Nordschleife Master
It's more common for head gaskets to fail at the cylinder. With the open deck block design, a leak anywhere along the edge of the head is possible.
Drain on radiator or block? My radiator drains have been on the right side of the vehicle. The radiators are known to leak between the end tank and the fins.
Drain on radiator or block? My radiator drains have been on the right side of the vehicle. The radiators are known to leak between the end tank and the fins.
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#8
Rennlist Member
I believe some of the 'Big 3' sell new end tanks & gaskets; however, opening and resealing the metal tabs is a challenge at home. The large press at a rad shop allows a better chance of success to reseal correctly.
#9
I live in New City, NY. I had a similar experience with the radiator on my '89 928S4. I couldn't see spending big bucks on a new one so I sent the radiator to Looper Service Center in Rockville MD. (www.loopersc.com).
They resealed both end caps (one had to be replaced because of a crack in the plastic) and cleaned the radiator for a total cost of about $350. The radiator has about 3500 miles on it without any problems and the car continues to run COOL!
Glenn Looper was a pleasure to deal with and I cannot recommend this shop more highly.
George Goldmark, MD
They resealed both end caps (one had to be replaced because of a crack in the plastic) and cleaned the radiator for a total cost of about $350. The radiator has about 3500 miles on it without any problems and the car continues to run COOL!
Glenn Looper was a pleasure to deal with and I cannot recommend this shop more highly.
George Goldmark, MD
#10
Instructor
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Speaking of irritating leaks - I have a coolant leak at the base of the thermostat housing - where it joins into the engine. It leaks about 50 ml each time the engine is started from cold, there is a nice green pond under the thermostat.
I have the gasket and seals to replace the dodgy bits, but I cannot get a spanner into the last hex bolt in the housing. ( it is the one at the rear of the housing, under the knock sensor). Has anyone been able to remove all 4 hex bolts with the head on?
If you did what tool did you use? I have previously disconnected all hoses sensors etc to improve access. To date I have snapped one hex spanner and lost another under the intake, along with the usual scrapings and gouges.
I have the gasket and seals to replace the dodgy bits, but I cannot get a spanner into the last hex bolt in the housing. ( it is the one at the rear of the housing, under the knock sensor). Has anyone been able to remove all 4 hex bolts with the head on?
If you did what tool did you use? I have previously disconnected all hoses sensors etc to improve access. To date I have snapped one hex spanner and lost another under the intake, along with the usual scrapings and gouges.
#11
Maddox
I just did the same gasket replacement, I had the same leak as you describe. I was able to get that hex bolt with the short end of a long neck hex key (allen wrench). It was tight. I'm just now refilling the engine with coolant.
Dave
I just did the same gasket replacement, I had the same leak as you describe. I was able to get that hex bolt with the short end of a long neck hex key (allen wrench). It was tight. I'm just now refilling the engine with coolant.
Dave
#13